Author |
Message |
Fasted
| Posted on Thursday, June 19, 2008 - 06:55 pm: |
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i would appreciate info related to the exact step by step procedure for removing the sprocket spacer and crankseal. i know how to r&r the stator flywheel, chain, and clutch basket assembly. i also know how to install the new seal with the special tool. i do not know how to remove the spacer and seal correctly to avoid trashing any machined surfaces. i would prefer to do it right the 1st time, without learning anything the hard way. i have no desire to have this project turn into a funnny story a year from now.......thnx |
Xldevil
| Posted on Sunday, June 22, 2008 - 07:23 am: |
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I used two small self cutting screws to pull the old seal out.I carefully drilled them in, vis-à-vis to each other.Then I used the screws´heads to lever the seal out. Before that,you got to remove the spacer and discard it.Allways use a new one. Ralph (Message edited by Xldevil on June 22, 2008) |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, June 23, 2008 - 09:26 am: |
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XLDevil, thats a great suggestion regarding the screws. That case is soft as butter in there, I was amazed at how easy it would gouge, and it was quite a wrestling match to get the old seal out on my M2. I don't recall the spacer having to be replaced, is that from the service manual? Or just a life lesson? It would not be the first time I did a job without reading the manual close enough |
Xldevil
| Posted on Monday, June 23, 2008 - 12:32 pm: |
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IIRC it´s recommended in the service manual. Have to look for it later.´ Ralph |
Blake
| Posted on Monday, June 23, 2008 - 11:19 pm: |
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Fasted, did you see Quentin's recent write-up and photos about changing his Buell's crank seal?... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/364827.html?1213450988 |
Fasted
| Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2008 - 12:54 am: |
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thanks to all of you for the input. every post described just about everything EXCEPT proper removal technique for the old seal (quentin, henrik, et. al.) i ended up using a mini pry bar with the heel resting sideways on the shaft, and the toe hooked under the lip of the seal. i worked my way around, and got it out. i mistakenly ordered the seal installation tool from kent moore that was listed in the 1999 m2 repair manual. that part # is for the old seal and IS NOT INTERCHANGEABLE with the new seal. the part # for the new seal is hd 45206. everything else went as expected. the jims tool is difficult to keep in place without some help. i kept tension on the upper portion of the chain to keep the sprockets from moving so that the locker bar wouldn't fall out as i ratcheted the torque wrench within the small range of movement available. it was difficult to move the torque wrench without scraping the tank and tail, or hitting the kickstand, footpeg lift stand, or the floor. a helper's extra set of hands would have been welcome while removing and replacing the two big nuts. by the way, just before the test ride, i was straightening up and noticed the UNOPENED tube of loctite in the bottom of the parts box. so after repeating the major portion of the project in order to apply the loctite to the nuts and shafts, i am pretty good at all the steps necessary to to r&r the crank and clutch nuts. practice makes perfect. |
Xldevil
| Posted on Wednesday, June 25, 2008 - 11:07 pm: |
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Service manual,Page 3-61 ....new spacer.... Ralph |
Fasted
| Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2008 - 12:01 am: |
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i did replace mine, tho it made no sense. spose they had a production overrun and needed to get off 'em, so recommended replacement?? |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2008 - 07:54 am: |
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Thanks Ralph! I learn something new every day. |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Friday, June 27, 2008 - 10:13 am: |
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From what I've seen, the new seal rides on a different spot on the spacer than the old single lip seal. The new two lip straddles the old single lip wear spot. After seeing this, I reused the old spacer. If I had to replace it again, I'd probably get a new spacer. Brad |
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