| Author | Message | ||
     Rogue_biker |
Okay. Just over 9k miles using the Lyndall Gold Pads on my '06 Firebolt. Total miles is 16k miles. 7k with OEM pads. 9k with Lyndals. About 3k miles ago, the front brakes developed a pulse. It is noticeable during the last few feet as the bike is slowing to a stop. It slows down, then speeds up. It feels like a warped brake rotor. I can also feel a mild pulsing during normal braking. So after reading some posts around here, it appears this is a recurring problem with the XB brakes. Unfortunately, I have not found a definite answer to fix this issue. Questions: 1) What can I do to fix the pulsing? 2) Will I need to replace the rotor? 3) Should I go to the improved Lyndal pads (the one without the recommended break-in procedure)? Thanks all. | ||
| Petebueller |
Hi Rogue A friend had a similar problem recently. Fixed when he changed the rotor springs 6 x H0505.02A8. Would be worth a try. Peter | ||
| S_palmer |
I had the same problem with my Uly, I cleaned the rotor with emery cloth then did about 8 hard stops from 80mph. They got so hot the rotor turned blue but no more pulsing. Good Luck Steve | ||
| Jlnance |
Rogue - I had a similar problem. Put a new rotor on the bike + Lyndals. It was good for a while, but then I noticed a pulse after a few thousand miles. I immediately put new pads on the bike, and this fixed the problem. I think the old ones may have been glazed. As to your question about which Lyndals, I'd definitely go with the new & improved. I'm not saying you need to fix this the same way I did, just telling you what I did. We know the pulsing is caused by pad material buildup on the rotors. You can read posts in this thread an others from people who have had good luck cleaning the deposits off with brillow or emery cloth. You might as well give that a try before spending $60 on a new set of pads. One thing I'm not clear on, the people who are cleaning the rotors, do you remove them from the wheel to do this, or can you get to everything with them mounted on the bike? | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Thanks guys. I'll try cleaning first. I too would like to know if cleaning requires removal of the rotor--it sounds like it to me. It certainly would make it easier. I was also thinking of upgrading to the new Lyndal pads since my friend's Lightning who has this generates a whole lot less brake dust. | ||
| Jlnance |
You don't want to remove the rotor if you don't have to. It's a spring loaded mounting system that's somewhat of a PITA to put back. And you're supposed to replace some of the hardware when you remove it. | ||
| M2nc |
Which are the new and improved Lyndal pads? I put the gold ones on a few thousand miles ago. The rotors look clean now but I am just now starting to feel a slight pulsating. | ||
| Petebueller |
You should replace all of the mounting hardware if you remove and reinstall the rotor. After 16k miles it would be advisable. If you do remove the rotor it doesn't cost much to get it machined, and that will clean off the old dust, fix any potential warp (within limits) and clean up the scores to give better contact. At 9k miles you must be nearly due for new pads. Are the new pads you are thinking of the Lyndall Gold+? These are what I run, they claim to be dust free and no brake in. I've done 6,000 km with them and I like them. I don't know if they are slightly bigger than the stock pads, but they were noisy when I first fitted them. I should have had the rotor machined when I fitted them. (They still make a slight whirring noise but that I am told is normal, especially on a wave disc.) Anyway if you can't clean the rotor without removing it, I think that machining, new mounting hardware and new Lyndall Gold+ pads would be the most certain way to fix the problem. | ||
| Jsimpkins |
Check to see if you've hot spotted your brake rotor. You will see dots/areas that are a different color than the rotor. This a hardened spot in the steel. This happens when the rotor gets too hot and can't cool. That spot has been "heat treated", basically. Nothing to do but chuck it and buy a new one. j- | ||
| Sprintdog2000 |
In my case, the problem was due to uneven pad transfer to the rotors. It was possible to see small oval areas on the rotor that were building up pad material. The micrometer verified this was the case. I used emery cloth to remove the material. This was a temporary fix. Switching to SBS pads was a permanent fix, but these pads don't have the same feel as the OEM pads | ||
| Blake |
Spots are not from heat in metal and are no reason to chuck the rotor. Spots are due to uneven buildup of brake pad residue. Sounds to me like you may just need some new pads. If you find that the pads are okay with still plenty of meat left and nice even wear, then a slight pulsing is no problem as far as I know. As long as the brakes work when needed, I probably wouldn't be concerned about it. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Another classic case of  |
