| Author | Message | ||
     Tripper |
Jugger - I had a Forcewinder on my T-Stormed S1, added an extension and gained 5HP. During installation it was revealed that the Forcewinder ID was not matched at all well to the inlet size of the carb throat. Porting to match the inlet of the extension was performed before installing. Whether the improved inlet match or the extension was responsible for the power increase was not determined as I did not do A/B dyno pulls. Wait a minute I see a problem with your setup. Where is the 4th hole through the extension for the vent? Reminds me of another problem, is that a recently manufactured Forcewinder? If yes, grind out the vent a little bigger. READ THIS edited by tripper on July 10, 2003 edited by tripper on July 10, 2003 | ||
| Jugger |
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| Jugger |
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| Tripper |
Damn thats a nice garage. | ||
| Jugger |
Tripper , The fourth hole is there , but not all that visible. Forcewinder is new , just recieved it yesterday. Don't know how long warehouse had it on the shelf though. How can i tell if vent is correct? Jugger | ||
| Tripper |
I edited my post above with a link. Go back and read it. If you have test ridden your bike it probably runs like crap. Aarons instructions will fix that problem. | ||
| Jugger |
Well, Its back out to the garage to pull the force back off to check the vent. I thought force was a top notch company , but beginning to think otherwise. Seems quality control and simple editing of their install directions would be no big deal.Something like, Don't forget to re-install carb mounting bracket when installing new vent hose fittings. Thanks for the info Tripper. | ||
| Kcbill |
Come on Tripper, pull yours off and put a picture of yours on here. | ||
| Kcbill |
Jugger lay a carb gasket over the opening where the Force mounts to the carb. You will see that the Force inner diameter is almost 1/8" small. Port that out to match the gasket all the way threw. Watch around the mounting hole indentations that you don't sand all the way threw. You can get really close. I use a air drill with a sanding wheel. 50 or 60 grit will work fine. | ||
| Jugger |
 This is what i found. | ||
| Jugger |
 What i have now | ||
| Jugger |
 Looking inside | ||
| Tripper |
That's better. | ||
| Aaron |
That ain't nearly enough. To keep it from going lean you gotta grind until you can about lay a finger in there, a good 1/2" or more deep. | ||
| Thunderbolt_dad |
Aaron, forgive my stupidity here, but is there any gain at all to do the same modification to a DDFI bike? | ||
| Buelliedan |
No need to drill out a DDFI bike as they do not have a vent for the float bowl since they have no float. | ||
| Aaron |
What Daniel said. | ||
| Thunderbolt_dad |
Thanks guys, what I assumed, just wanted a more intelligent reply than my own seriously flawed logic. | ||
| Fuscat |
This info makes me wonder about the YoDude intake system on my S1. hmmmm Tripper- Wonder if I should attempt to take it off to look?! hahaha Probably not a good idea considering what we went through to get it on! | ||
| Tripper |
Fusee; I'm pretty sure I knew about this issue with the Force product when I installed yours, and while I don't specifically remember thinking about it, I'm sure I would have caught it if yours had the smallish vent. If your not running ratty, don't worry about it. Did your steering settle down when you went to the narrower bars? | ||
| Jugger |
Aaron , What do you think about notching out the adapter to match the Force notch? In addition, can anyone tell me if the D&D exhaust shown on my S1w is the right one for a Thunderstorm motor. I recieved a message saying the model shown on my bike is for a non -Thunderstorm motor and that i'm probably losing horsepower because of it. Should of dynoed it before and after install.  | ||
| Kcbill |
Hey Aaron have you experimented with any extensions on the carb like his set up? I can send you one to try if you like. | ||
| Aaron |
Yes, but I generally use cardboard and duct tape for intake length experiments. | ||
| Fuscat |
Tripp- nah not ratty at all. Runs pretty good. Every once in a while I get a single cough through the carb though. Steering is good. I like the bars alot. Shake is gone. I think it was a combo of loose clothing, the wide bars the mirror placement and having too tight of a grip on it!  | ||
| Country |
Jugger, Tipper, and the rest, You all seam pretty knowledgeable about the force intake. I am not. I have a force on my bike, installed before I bought the bike. My problem is that it leaks oil all the damn time. Every time I ride, there is oil leakage. My questions are these: Is this normal? Is there a way I can stop this from happening? Please help, its leaking on my exhaust pipes and making them look like crap. I don't know if its running bad since I am new to Buell and Motorcycles all together. | ||
| Tripper |
Leaking.... oil? Get the head breathers routed away from the air cleaner. There are a thousand ways to route the breather output. Buell recycles it into the intake for emissions reasons. Not the best scenario, especially if you are expelling excessive amounts of oil from the breather system. Mine never spit out more than the intake could recycle and never pooled up or leaked out the air filter, but these bikes vary in that manner. Read and absorb the ENGINE-BREATHERS topic of this website to learn more than you care to know. READ HERE | ||
| Jugger |
Country, check your oil level when motor is hot, make sure your not over filled , clean up motor to verify source of leak. could be a rocker gasket adding to leakage problem. Follow Trippers advice on breather set up or if you don't mind venting into the intake , add the hypercharger spacer like i have mine set up. It seems to be working very well for me. | ||
| Cowtown |
Due to the amount of responses I'm getting on this intake system  I've decided to post the process. 1) You will need to purchase: K&N Universal Filter part # RC-4230 @ $40.69 (5" diameter x 2" width) If you want a larger Filter part # RC-1790 @ $35.55 (5" diameter x 3" width) I chose RC-4230, because 5x2 looks more apportioned and it doesn't stick out pass the fuel cell cover. I purchased my filter from: 4filters.com FOX Performance 800-416-6079 $5.00 standard shipping for any filter. 2) Build or have built a custom venturi ring. The material and dimensions for the custom venturi ring are: 3/4" Acrylic Outside diameter 3 1/2" Inside diameter 2 1/4" (same as stock ring part # 29179-88) 3) 1/4" Holes, using a stock ring or gasket as a template 3) 13/32" Sink Holes, 3/8" deep to accommodate bolt heads Bevel inside / top of ring  Kevin Cooke at Regal Plastics in Fort Worth, TX made my ring. His phone number is 800-772-7580. If your going to use him, let me know and I'll take my stock ring to him. He didn't charge me, so you'll want to get a price quote. 3) Sand the lip, rim, edge, ect. on the Air Temperature Sensor (ATS) so it's flush with it's connector.  4) Cut a 1" x 3/4" strip of heavy-duty double-sided tape. Apply it to the ATS.  I think Velcro would also work. It would make it easier to remove and reinstall. Someone should try it. Let me know how it works. 5) Adhere the ATS to the inside of the filter.  6) Attach filter. Leave as little wire as possible inside the filter incase the tape or Velcro fails the ATS won't reach the butterfly inside the throttle body. edited by cowtown on July 14, 2003 | ||
| Aesquire |
Clean! nice. Thanks for the pics. | ||
| Blake |
A nice 90o radius on that inlet ring would be a very good idea. Air cannot bend efficiently around a sharp corner, so in effect a sharp corner makes the inlet seem smaller as far as air flow is concerned. This is the same reason that proper blend jobs on cylinder head valves are so beneficial to volumetric efficiency. edited by blake on July 14, 2003 |
