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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Drivetrain » Secondary Drive: Sprockets, Belt/Chain, Ratios » 03 to 04+ Belt Conversion ~ Step by Step « Previous Next »

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Blackbichgsx
Posted on Tuesday, May 27, 2008 - 10:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Below is the 'How-To' for converting from the horrible 2003 belt to the rocking 2004+ belt. I bought most of the items, but the belt and bolts used to save some cash.

This does not follow the Service Manual exactly, but does use there torque specs.

HOW TO - 03 to 04+ Belt Conversion

Parts list as posted by Court on the XBoard:

1. Front sprocket 40288-95 (27 tooth) $56.00
2. Front Sprocket Cover G0555.1AA $37.95 *
3. Stone Deflector N/A Discard/Remove
4. Upper Belt Guard M0570.1AA $33.25 *
5. Lower Belt Guard M0560.1AA $46.60 *
6. Inner Belt guard Discard/Remove
7. Rear Sprocket G0400.1AA (65 tooth) $117.00
8. Rear Sprocket Bolts AA0609.11CXZB (Qty 6) $2.75
9. Belt G0500.1AAA $152.00
10. Idler Pulley Assembly G0604.1AA (can't buy bracket separate) $91.55
11. Rear Master Cylinder H0205.1AA (moves brake line away from belt) $57.80
12. Rear Brake Line H1522.1AA (w/banjo bolts and crush washers) 2003 line will be short with 2004 MC $32.50
13. Swingarm Brace Bolt Short AA0507.2CZB (three required for job) need to buy one $1.70
14. Swingarm Brace Bolt Long AA0522.2CZB (one required) Delete/Discard Replace with short from above

Total, plus TTL, $622.81 - less the BWB sponsors discount of 10%? $566.19 ?

Notes:
1. Items with (*) after are also available in Carbon Fiber from Buell for some $$.$$
2. 65/27 = 2.407 drive ration same as 2003, no speedometer, or calibration change needed.

Start by getting the rear of the bike supported in some form. I did this my own way, so it may not follow the repair manual exactly, but it worked for me.

REMOVAL PROCESS

Remove the two bolts that hold the brake caliper to the swing arm
Move the caliper off to the side of the swing arm
Rear Brake Caliper Bolts

Remove all the bolts you can access on the belt guard
Loosen the axle pinch bolt under the swing arm
Remove the rear axle
Guard & Wheel

Remove the chin fairing bolts on the right side
Remove the front sprocket guard bolts
Remove the front sprocket guard
Front Sprocket Guard

Break the rear master cylinder banjo bolt loose
Master Cylinder Banjo

Remove the three bolts that hold on the rear set
Rear Set

Remove the two bolts that hold the brake master cylinder on the rear set
Remove the cotter pin from the brake lever
Rear Master Cylinder

Remove the two bolts holding on the idler pulley
Remove the inner belt guard
Before Removal
Idler and Inner Guard Removed

Remove the remaining bolts that hold on the belt guard
Belt Guard in Swing

Remove the three bolts remaining that hold the top of the swing arm
Jog, twist and fight to get the belt and guard off the swing arm
Swing Arm Apart

My girlfriends dog stopped by to help and interrupt
Dog (Codie)

Remove the two bolts that hold the front sprocket lock on the sprocket
I used a socket to lock the sprocket from moving
Sprocket Jammed
Sprocket Lock Removed

Now comes the hardest part of the whole thing (1 7/8 socket required)
Remove the sprocket nut
I used a socket to lock the sprocket from moving. Then I put a 3/4-1/2 adapter on a 1/2 breaker bar, with a jack handle slid on. Remember this nut is reverse threaded so you have to turn to the right (clockwise).
Sprocket Jammed
Pry bar & Jack Handle

Remove the 6 bolts holding the sprocket to the wheel
Wheel Sprocket

INSTALL PROCESS

Place the 04+ Sprocket on the wheel and torque the 6 bolts to 35-37 ft-lbs
Wheel Sprocket

Slide 04+ front sprocket onto output shaft of the transmission
Front Sprocket

Distribute a little 20W-50 on the back of the front sprocket nut
Oil on Nut

Put a couple drops of red Loctite onto the threads of the nut
Loctite on Nut

Install nut and torque to 50 ft-lbs (socket used like removal)
Torque Sprocket

Install nut lock plate on the front sprocket (socket used like removal)
Lock Plate

Remove the seat to get access to the rear master cylinder resivour
Seat Removal

Remove the reservoir hose from the master cylinder and allow to drain (I used a can)
Then remove the lid to the reservoir to get the remaining fluid out
Remove Hose

Remove the 03 master cylinder from the banjo bolt
03 Cylinder

Install the 04+ master cylinder banjo bolt and reservoir hose
Slip 04+ belt into place (don't need the inner belt guard)
04+ Cylinder Installed

Install the rear master cylinder to the rear set with the two bolts and pin
Rear Set

Bolt up rear piece of the swing arm into place (uses new bolt)
Swing Arm Support

Get wheel into position and slide axle into place with only 2 to 3 threads engaged.
Rear Wheel

Place the idler pulley into place and torque to 33-35 ft-lbs
Idler Pulley Install

Tighten rear axle to 48-52 ft-lbs
Tighten pinch bolt to 40-45 ft-lbs
Pinch Bolt

Install rear caliper and tighten bolts to 24-26 ft-lbs
Rear Caliper

Install the 04+ front sprocket cover with the old 3 bolts
Front Sprocket

Remove the rear swing arm brace and install the 04+ upper belt guard
Upper Belt Guard

Reinstall the swing arm brace with belt guard
Swing Arm Install

Install the 3 bolts that hold the rear set into place
Rear Set

Tighten the banjo bolt to the rear master cylinder
Rear Banjo Tighten

Install the bolts from the front chin fairing
Chin Fairing

Fill the rear brake reservoir with DOT 4 fluid
Rear Brake Fill

Squeeze the tube to the master cylinder to get some air out
Tube Squeeze

Bleed the brakes
Install the seat
Rear Caliper

Install the 04+ lower belt guard
Lower Belt Guard

Admire the work you just did and get ready to ride
DONE!


(Message edited by blackbichGSX on May 27, 2008)

(Message edited by blackbichGSX on May 27, 2008)

(Message edited by blackbichGSX on May 28, 2008)
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U4euh
Posted on Sunday, September 07, 2008 - 12:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just wanted to say thanks, you saved my ass today with the pictures!!
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Half_buell
Posted on Monday, September 08, 2008 - 11:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The local HD says I need the1AAG,not the1AAE belt does anyone know for sure?
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Al_lighton
Posted on Tuesday, September 09, 2008 - 12:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Either will work, but the AAG is the superceding belt that has been made tougher yet. They're the same dimensionally.

Al
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Blackbichgsx
Posted on Monday, September 29, 2008 - 07:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No problem, that's why I did this. I was in your shoes and confused with no sure direction. As for the belt, don't listen to HD, get the revised version. Most of the time the dealers have no idea what they are talking about, at least from my experience. Books can only tell you so much.
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Blackbichgsx
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 12:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

EDIT:

I just realized today that I needed to add the final torque of the front sprocket nut. The following needs to be changed:

Install nut and torque to initial 50 ft-lbs (socket used like removal)
Final torque by turning 30-45 degrees}
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