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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Engine » Electrics: Starter, Ignition, Coil, Spark Plugs/Cables, ECM, "TPS Reset" » Archive through July 22, 2009 » Another TPS Thread. (I searched like mad crazy too) « Previous Next »

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Biff
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 12:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Long time lurker... first time poster.

I have a 05 xb9sx. Drummer pipe, Race ECM, K&N.

I put on new grips and noticed the throttle cables needed to be tightened up. After doing that I decided to reset my TPS (for the first time) with my VDSTS.

I did this twice.
I followed the procedure shown online, except the first time the engine temp was quite a bit cooler than recommended. Set the TPS, followed by idle, then reset the AFV when the bike was off (is that right or wrong???).

The bike ran like a freaking BEAST. Shifted at 5500 rpm, and the front wheel lifted. Hit 3rd at 6500 and had a (albeit small) lift again.

Problem was, decel popping like CRAZY (I could coast down a hill and it would just pop pop pop). AND, there was an osculating idle jumping from 1000 to 2800 rpms.

I went back to the garage (bike now warm) and reset again, (tps zero, open shut, reset, adjust idle), then reset the AFV one more time, except with the bike on.

Bike now idles great, no decel popping at all... NONE, but... the bike just doesn't have quite the pep as the previous run.

Question 1:
Does it matter when the AFV is reset (bike on or off)?

Question 2:
How can I get my bike to run with that kind of spirit and enthusiasm again????

God that was fun.
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Alessio66xb12r
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 02:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i know that popping means LEAN CONDITION
so maybe when you set the afv to 100 you made your map leaner than before , more hp but more dangerous for the engine .
i don't understand why many people use a race kit ecm with other mufflers than the race kit one. race ecm map is developed for that race kit muffler only , so better if you send your ecm or your entire bike to someone (there are sponsor here) with a dyno to make a new map that match your filter/exhaust set-up.
right now , my opinion , reset tps/afv and than have a ride about 5 , 7 , 10 minutes at constant rpm(3000 /3500) fifth gear , in this way ecm " learning mode" will give you the right afv in closed loop.
bye Alessio
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Biff
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 03:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you Alessio for your advice.

I purchased the bike with the drummer and race ecm. I would LOVE to find someone that can make a custom map for me. If anyone is close to, or near Overland Park KS, PLEASE chime in & let me know the cost.

Does it matter "when" the AFV is reset (bike running vs bike not running)?
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Jackbequick
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 07:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Some of the symptoms you are describing, the erratic idle for example, may be due to a intake manifold leak. If you can get it idling steady, try spraying some WD-40 on the intake manifold where they attach to the heads. If if causes the idle to change, you for sure want to put a new set of seals on.

Watch out for a too lean condition on a "the best it has ever run" bike. If it is running too lean and hot and high RPM you can melt a hole in a piston real quick.

Jack

(Message edited by jackbequick on May 05, 2008)
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Sparky
Posted on Tuesday, May 06, 2008 - 02:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You mentioned tightening the throttle cables and then adjusting/resetting the TPS. Probably not good if done in that order. I'm bringing up a point that was mentioned on here before that seems to make sense.

It was found to be better to slacken the throttle cables prior to adjusting/resetting the TPS because, if not slackening the cables, the cable could ever so slightly pull the throttle plate open after slamming it shut per procedure, thus not ensuring an absolutely closed throttle plate during the TPS reset procedure. It's possible that could happen, YMMV.

So, it might be better to slacken the throttle cables first, adjust/reset the TPS, and then tighten the cables.
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Ryder_rick
Posted on Saturday, August 02, 2008 - 03:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you back off the idle speed stop till the butterfly completely closed before resetting the TPS?

What was the AFV before you made changes?

If you reset the TPS correctly as above, what happened is the AFV is used by the CPU to adjust the mixture across the entire map. However the CPU learns/adjusts the AFV from riding in the closed loop area.

From your description the map in the power area is correct and the closed loop/idle area is lean. Correcting the map in the closed loop area and resetting the AFV to 100% should provide you a map that will not drive the AFV up causing a rich (low) power area.



(Message edited by ryder_rick on August 02, 2008)
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