| Author |
Message |
    
Bg05xb12r
| | Posted on Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 02:23 pm: | 
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Hey everyone, just solved the problem of the Blowing Ign fuse. Thought this might help out someone else. Using the tattle tale (fuse soldered to 12v bulb) that I learned how to make from a fellow badwebber, I traced my instant blowing ignition fuse back to a short IN THE FUELL TANK ON THE PUMP! heres some pics. Hope this helps someone out.
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Reepicheep
| | Posted on Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 02:57 pm: |
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Great info! Thanks for posting that! |
Bombardier
| | Posted on Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 08:40 pm: |
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HOLY SHIT BATMAN!!!!
Given the right conditions..............
That bike's da bomb!!! |
Bad_karma
| | Posted on Sunday, April 27, 2008 - 01:31 am: |
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I would have thought that those wires would have been sleeved. Good catch and BZ for the photos.
Joe |
Bg05xb12r
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 12:24 am: |
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I hope this helps someone solve their problem. I am still new to the Buell world and have recieved a ton of help from BadWeb, Thanks to all of you, I can ride in freedom everyday!!!! Thank YOU. |
Metalstorm
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 07:18 pm: |
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Unbelievable!!
A week ago my bike developed a problem where it would blow the ign fuse upon turning of the key.
That was a first! I've had shorts that popped that fuse but it was always upon hitting the starter, not merely turning the key on.
All evidence pointed to fuel pump circuit grounding to 12 volt. I went through the whole harness to find nothing then I remembered this thread and pulled my pump out.
brwn/ylw wire and gry wire were nicked in the exact same spot as on yours.
I would say at least one wire has been nicked for over a year because just over a year ago my pump began to stay on continuously after the key was turned on.
I thought it was normal, that it was probably just signs of getting old.
Nope.
After fixing the nicked wires my pump is like new again. Turn key and it goes for 5 seconds then stops like it did when new. |
Bg05xb12r
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 07:29 pm: |
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Metalstorm, I am happy that my thread helped you. But just to add a crazy twist on this whole thing, my fuell pump used to cut off after 5 secs like normal until I repaired it, then like 2 days later it started staying on like yours did before. Im thinking I should take it back apart and double check everything, it only takes 20 mins. |
Metalstorm
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 08:04 pm: |
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Wow, that is bizarre.
Mine is out again because I had a little gas seeping out. I munched one of the 0-rings so now I'm waiting on some new ones.
I also noticed when I took mine out that wrapping it in black tape ain't gonna cut it. The stuff pulled off very easily after only 20 minutes of being in the tank/frame.
The connectors are to big to slip shrink wrap over which sorta sucks.
I think I'm going to cut the connectors off (leaving at least 1" of wire) slip some good 3-1 internal epoxy style shrink wrap on it then solder wires back together and shrink wrap that as well.
That should be pretty darn sturdy and resistant to the gasoline in which it sits.
At least I hope  |
Jlnance
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 04, 2008 - 08:00 am: |
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Wow, when it rains it pours.
I just got my bike back from the shop. The fuel pump had a short that caused it to run all the time. They took the pump out and fixed it. Shuts off now after 5 sec, just like it used to. |
Mikethebike72
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 04, 2008 - 10:17 am: |
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Jim, that could have been a pic of your pump. It looked exactly the same. |
Metalstorm
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 04, 2008 - 10:50 am: |
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The edges of that bracket where the wires sit are just new damn sharp.
I took a file and some sand paper to mine.
The edges now have a slight roll. Hopefully that will prevent the same problem from happening again.
Of course with the thick wall shrink tube I used, I don't think the sharp edge would be a problem anymore anyway but I'm a firm believer in overkill |
Mmcn49
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 12:28 pm: |
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ANCOR MARINE Adhesive-lined, nylon heat shrink waterproof butt connectors are a good choice for gasoline immersion.
The nylon is hard and chafe resistant. The adhesive sealant is tough, and both are fuel proof.
They cost about $0.75 to $1.00 each and can be purchased at marine supply houses like West Marine. |
Ft_bstrd
| | Posted on Monday, June 16, 2008 - 09:52 pm: |
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Given the right conditions..............
That bike's da bomb!!!
Under the conditions that might cause your bike to explode chaffed wires on the fuel pump would be the least of your worries.
Without air at the point of spark, ain't nothin' happening. Having wires like this that are all chaffed sucks because your bikes stops working, but it wouldn't pose much of an ignition risk.
You'd either have to have the bike mostly full of fuel and inverted so that there is air at the point of spark and you would have to have the hot wire ground out. |
Bombardier
| | Posted on Monday, June 16, 2008 - 11:09 pm: |
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Or refuelling your bike whilst it is running which I have seen done by a couple of mental midgets.
The point at which you are likely to fuel up is when the wires are most likely to be exposed to air. - low fuel level.
This would be where the air fuel ratio would be the most explosive mixture - 14.7 to one being the best.
All it would take would be to have the gas cap off, low on fuel and perhaps turn the ignition on to see how many miles you have done to work out how much fuel you are going to need. A priority when you have to pay first and then pump.
(Message edited by Bombardier on June 16, 2008) |
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Shorted fuell pump