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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) » Archive through June 03, 2008 » 2000 Blast Idles then won't go « Previous Next »

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Thevrb
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 01:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The subject says it all. Starts, Idles, then if you open the throttle a lil, it will stall. What's up with that?
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Naustin
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 03:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Go to the "thumper" area and look up the "intake manifold Coupler" aka "the Boot."

This is a $15 rubber part that connects the carb to the intake manifold. They often crack causing a serious intake leak that will cause the symptom you describe.

Instruction for replacing this part are in teh "thumper" area. This is the most common and frequent problem with the blast and is easily recognized and fixed. The "Pro-Series" intake or other aftermarket airbox mods are usually to blame. Other causes of failure are improper installation and pressing on the airbox with your knee while riding.

Good Luck

nick

(Message edited by naustin on April 18, 2008)
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Thevrb
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 04:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have already had that problem actually. I just looked at my boot and it's ok. I have been getting bad gas mileage for a long time as well. If you let the tank get too low, it will develop a problem. Usually, cleaning out the carb fixes it. But this time it didn't. Somehow it just isn't getting the gas it wants. But the gas is definitely getting to the bowl. I'm so tired of fixing this bike. >O
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Sparky
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 08:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you ever drained the gas tank? There might be a layer of @##%%$ in there that gets sucked up when the tank gets low.

Anyway, chances are some gunk is plugging the low speed jet and it'll need another cleaning out. But you might want to unscrew the jets, clean the jets and passages and see if that fixes the problem.

Otherwise if it's not in the low speed circuit, it could be the accelerator pump circuit is plugged and that needs to be cleaned out too.

If this has been an ongoing problem, I would look into getting a fuel filter. Not knowing your gas buying habits, I'd recommend always buying gas from a well known brand also.

Hope you get it sorted out and it's easy to fix.
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Thevrb
Posted on Saturday, April 19, 2008 - 12:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I cleaned the carb out real good yesterday and ran it for a bit. Today it's full of black gunk! Any ideas?
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Sparky
Posted on Saturday, April 19, 2008 - 02:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You have to find its source. Where is the black gunk coming from?
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Thevrb
Posted on Saturday, April 19, 2008 - 03:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I can only assume it's oil. Or some kind of build up do to unburned gasoline do to improper air/fuel mixture. I have no clue where the gunk is coming from.
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Sparky
Posted on Saturday, April 19, 2008 - 11:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, maybe we are not talking about the same thing here regarding cleaning the carb.

What part of the carb is it that you are cleaning where you are finding the black stuff,
-- the mouth of the carb that faces towards the air cleaner,
-- the manifold side that faces into the engine,
-- or inside the float bowl where the gasoline sits? For this last one, you have to remove the screws that hold the float bowl to the carb body and look at the bottom of the float bowl to see if there is any water, dirt or other stuff that doesn't belong there.
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Thevrb
Posted on Sunday, April 20, 2008 - 08:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh. The black junk was everywhere. Mouth, manifold, and bowl.
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Naustin
Posted on Sunday, April 20, 2008 - 09:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the stock setup should have an oil line right in front of the mouth of the carb for EPA compliance to vent crank case fumes back into the carb. Is it puking large amounts of oil into your airbox?
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Thevrb
Posted on Sunday, April 20, 2008 - 08:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It seems each time I clean the carb out I get a new symptom and an old on goes away. The black junk problem seems to be gone. The new problem is you can idle or rev really high. Put anywhere in the mid throttle range will make it sputter out and stall. I actually got to drive it for a few seconds. If you open the throttle quickly you can get it to go to high rpm but when you have to stop you have to start all over. Why does it stall at mid rpm but not high or low? I cleaned the jets out. They didn't even seem dirty. :'(
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Kronichood
Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 04:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For the original problem, I wanted to ask you a Question:

When you'd Idle the bike could your rev it without it dying?

If so, it might be as simple as a bad kick stand sensor. The bike will die if the kick stand sensor is reading that the kick stand is still down.
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Blake
Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 04:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like you need to disassemble the carburetor and thoroughly clean it, float, needle, jets, passages and all.
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Kronichood
Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 04:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I always believe in checking the simple stuff first so, did you check the anti-vacuum hose on your fuel tank? If it is kinked under you tank cover you could get a vacuum lock problem.
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Sparky
Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 08:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's another possibility. If the Blast has a CV carb, the diaphragm might be torn, thus adversely affecting mid-to-high rpm operation but not idle nor possibly quick throttle openings.

In order to check the diaphragm, undo the screws holding the top cover of the carb and carefully remove it. Then check the flat rubber-like sheet thing that pulls the slide up and down, noting that the slide does move up and down by pulling/pushing on it. Inspect the diaphragm for any pinholes or tears. If it's defective, you'll have to get a new one.
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