| Author | Message | ||
     Loucksgl |
Yet another issue. Front rotor is giving the old studder affect when applying the front brake. "Pulsing." Worsens after it warms up. 12,300 miles. Noticed this at around 300 miles but very subtle. Mentioned to dealer. (never documented it). So now its bad and took it to dealer and he says it got ten thousandths run out. Acceptable is something like 23 thousandths. Why not 1/4"? Asked me how I used my brakes. Said rear is slightly worn and front is over half. Wa da ya expect? Rear is useless to stop with and front handles most of the job. Ain't the first bike I ever owned. Actually total somewhere around 50. They won't replace it. Hit the roof!! "Asked politely if they would call Harley." Said they would. No replacy---for saley--cheepy--immediately.......This is nuts!! | ||
| Tim |
This is the wrong section to sell your Uly. Try the classifieds. But seriously, a lot of guys have changed brake pads and eliminated the pulsing. I think they are switching to lyndall golds. Do a search or contact Al at American Sport Bike | ||
| Etennuly |
Gary, Mine did the pulse thing quite bad from about 10,000 miles until about16,000. From 16,000 to now, 25,000, they have been quite smooth. Now that they are worn out I'm going with the Lyndall Golds from Al at American Sport Bike for $55.00. The dealership wants $61.40 for stock ones. I think the reason they won't warranty them, other than it is a wear item like tires, is that so many people ride in so many different ways. I was pissed when my less than half used pads caused the nasty pulsing, so I just rode through it just to see if the would straighten out. They did smooth out. I won't put the stock ones back on. If I rode harder or did track days I would have changed them much earlier for feel and better function. Most of my miles are using it as a truck, but when I get to the twisties I know what to expect so I ride accordingly. Just change the pads and love it again. Most everyone that went to the Lyndall golds, except for the hard racers, have been very happy.....I'll see real soon myself. | ||
| Jlnance |
I think the reason they won't warranty them, other than it is a wear item like tires, is that so many people ride in so many different ways. It's strange, some dealers replace them, some won't. I don' know why dealers get picky about it. Call Buell CS. | ||
| Loucksgl |
Ya, I hear ya. The fire left my eyes after about four hours and I got calmed down. But the thing is #1. Rotor is warped. #2 Pads need changed #3 I was told we can't replace them #4 Asked how do you use your brakes? (how am I supposed to use em?), Point is that bike has capabilities of running a hundred miles per hour on the edge of a knife. Perfect brakes are absolutely the life line. "We aren't replacing the rotor is unacceptable." Do something, say something; but don't leave it at we ain't replacing the rotor. It ended that a call to Harley will be made. Thankfully. Why is it that the Buells have this continual exceptional circumstances surrounding the repair of any problem? Never a simple "no sweat, we got it. It's always some sintered, molecular reversable sensor that no one is sure is causing the problem. I don't get it...But I'm ok with it all-------I guess. Part of modern era motorcycling I guess. ha. For a good time; go here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aN5Zsytgivg | ||
| Loucksgl |
Thanks for all the info. In all 45 years of motorcycling I have never heard of anything like it. Bad pads; yes. Warped rotor yes. But to replace pads to cure a warped rotor no. To replace pads to fix high spots on a rotor no. But I trust all you guys. You run em.. I'll order up the new pads tonight. But Buell CS will get a call. These brakes will kill me in hard cornering situations. Chrome barge techs don't seem to understand what riding the edge means. Oh well----I wonder why Buell keeps producing the same old parts with the same old results even with all the negative reliability reports from seasoned riders. Sort of why the incorrect torques still exhist in both service and riders manuals resulting in swing arm replacements. Anyway; I need good brakes for the March Badness weekend even if I got to shell out for a new rotor and pads myself. Are you listening Mr. Buell? | ||
| Loucksgl |
Etennuly ---Want to order up those Lyndall Golds from American Sport Bike this morning. The site doesn't show specific part number for 08 Uly. Are they all the same? Don't have a lot of Buell part fitment experience. | ||
| Etennuly |
I'm not sure about the part # or fitment differences yet. I'm not sure when I will get into ordering yet. I plan on calling Al to order because I suck at online orders. Orangeulius has an interest too. Maybe we can all ship in one package? Are you working today? | ||
| Blake |
"Never a simple "no sweat, we got it." Be careful with those sweeping declarations. I've seen plenty of those kinds of resolutions posted here on BadWeB and heard of many that were not posted on BadWeB. I've experienced them myself. You were saying? If the spec on the rotor is 23 thou and your's is 10 thou, then how is it you conclude that it is warped and needing replacement? It is a floating rotor, yes? The pulsing that you are feeling is likely a result of a buildup of resin on the disk. Other pads, like the Lyndall's mentioned, also Nissin, don't have that problem. | ||
| Tobycat1 |
Hi Guys, Hope you dont mind me adding to this thread,However I am a new Buell owner with a 04 XB12R which front brake pulses as well.I have had it checked and the Rotor has exceeded the runout spec's and a new one is on order.I have read this thread and others I was hoping someone could explain what the theory is by replacing the pads? as this seems to be the cure and may I add a cheaper cure than replacing the front rotor? Cheers Tobycat1 | ||
| Blake |
If your rotor is warped pads won't help. | ||
| Loucksgl |
Frustration leads to, at times, rash statements. But allow me to take the position of a novice. If a rotor is a floater, how can run-out be determined with a dial indicator while the wheel is still on the bike? If, when the brake lever is depressed and the result is free, tight, free, tight, free, tight until the wheel stops; wouldn't rotor replacement be a logical course of action? I doubt pad replacement would cure that. High spots on the rotor, I would think would be indicative of a rapid chatter affect all the way to stop. The pad replacement idea "may" fix this depending upon the severity of the problem. I'm told Lindal Pads do cure this. I'm going to try this magic pad. But I doubt the run out measurement is correct on my rotor. Just a hunch........Thanks for the help (Message edited by loucksgl on March 17, 2008) | ||
| Blake |
I've often wondered the same thing about runout measurements and a floating rotor. I suppose that an astute technicial could tell whether the disk is warped (potato chip shape) and non-planar or just canted off-axis due to some slight binding of the floating support mechanism. If the new more rotor friendly pads don't resolve the issue, then proceed onwards. Guessing at this point is probably of no value. | ||
| Loucksgl |
I suspect the only true way to measure runout on floaters is to attach the rotor to a known perfectly flat surface mounted to, say, a lathe set up to fly cut and mount the dial indicator to measure against that. Anyway; my issue is addressed. The dealer called Buell and they are replacing the rotor only. I am to pay for the pads and the labor. I'm happy with that. It is sort of indicative that they suspect I am not handling my brake lever properly as they are admitting defect with the part, but not to the degree of saying it's totally the part's fault. Interesting. Lindahl Golds are going on if I'm paying. So hopefully that issue is put to rest. | ||
| Bombardier |
You can check it on the bike. Elevate the front wheel. Tape an indicator onto the fork leg to just touch one of the locating lugs of the disc. Turn the wheel slowly from lug to lug measuring the difference/runout from notch to notch. This will give you a base to work out the disc runout from. Wedge the disc at all lugs and then measure the runout of the disc at intervals to see if there is any measurable runout. If there is obvious differences then its off to Buell you should go. If there isn't then perhaps the Gold pads are the answer and maybe the problem is build up and not runout. | ||
| Bad_karma |
Gary It's your bike. If Buell won't fix it to your satisfaction then talk to a machine shop and see it they can turn it true or resurface. Also consider cleaning the rotor. Joe | ||
| Reepicheep |
Am I missing something? We already have a run out indicator on the bike... The brake pads are not spring loaded. Squeeze them hard, let go, spin the wheel for a few rotations, and watch for the biggest gap you can find between the rotor and the pads. I had a Harley shop bend a rotor on the M2... you can't mistake it... you pump up the brakes to stop, roll a little bit, and you have to pump them up to brake again because the rotor pushed the calipers so far back. | ||
| Loucksgl |
Folks; everything's cool. Dealer putting on a new rotor. Lindahl pads going on and I'm happy camper. I picked up a lot of information with this little problem. I'll let ya know how she works when completed. Theres a heck of a lot of diverse thought processes that occur's on this site. It's great! Really its Super. | ||
| Blake |
Good deal Lou! | ||
| Marks3tbillet |
Yeah Reep, you're missing something. Even good machinists can see .010 inch, but knowing whether you are .023 or .025 with your eyes is not possible. You need to use a dial indicator. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I guess if I can't tell the rotor is warped in any discernible way by using or looking at them, then they are good enough for me. Clearly though, I have very low standards... you should see my "other" bike  | ||
| Loucksgl |
Etennuly I got the brake pads. Thanks heaps! Rotor should be on the bike end of week, hopefully. If not won't affect TWO. I will document date of installation and keep track of wear and performance of these Lindahl pads. No brake dust and no break in is wonderful news. Thanks again | ||
| Etennuly |
Excellent! I got mine on last night but haven't been out yet to test them. | ||
| Etennuly |
Gary, Al recommends a break in procedure. Five medium stops from 20 mph and five hard stops from 40 mph. He also recommends not removing the two main caliper mounting bolts. Rather to; remove axle, two rt side fender bolts, move wheel back, rotate rt fork, remove old pads, block pistons so they cannot come out too far(with block of wood or such),gently pump them out very little, use shoe string like a floss to clean piston surfaces where they will go back into the caliper seals, gently push them back in and install new pads. Do not over torque front axle, 38 to 40 ft lbs only. I hope this helps. | ||
| Loucksgl |
Thanks much. I will do the break in as recommended. However, the shop is installing the pads cause the rotor is warranty. I'm sure all will go back together fine. Thanks again. This web is better than a service manual. | ||
| Loucksgl |
Etennuly Rotor didn't come in so installed the new gold pads on the old rotor. We'll see if these pads do a Houdini trick. Catch ya tomorrow. Gary | ||
| Loucksgl |
I can't believe it. I put the new Lindahl Golds on the front and the rotor problem has disappeared. The chatter bumping gradually diminished with miles. Now, at 145 miles there is no indication the rotor has high or hot spots. Smooth brake pad contact and good road feel are back. I don't get it. But what the heck! Magic I guess! Those pads are going on the rear too. I don't see brake dust. Will help to keep the rear wheel clean. | ||
| Bombardier |
Loucksgl, Any chance that you have a micrometer and could keep a record of the rate of wear on your rotor over say a year? I am keen to change to the Golds as my rotor has started to shudder as well but am concerned about the wear factor on the rotor itself. | ||
| Blake |
Pretty darn "no sweat" eh? I don't understand why Buell still uses those pads. They (Message edited by blake on April 02, 2008) | ||
| Jlnance |
Bombardier - my understanding is the Lyndals are very easy on the rotor. I'm trying to remember where I read that. |
