| Author |
Message |
    
Nillaice
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 11:07 pm: | 
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my 03 XB9 jumps when i put it in first. yes, the clutch lever is pulled in all the way. it didn't do this last season.... or it wasn't as noticeable. is this just the inertia of the gears? (as they get spun-up from the fluid friction in the clutch when stopped at idle) |
Bad_karma
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 12:49 am: |
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Matt
I would check the clutch adjustment, primary chain adjustment and primary fluid level.
Joe |
Sparky
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 01:17 am: |
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It's probably fluid friction. But if you haven't changed the oil in there since last season, it's probably contaminated with water, gunk & stuff that conspires to keep the clutch plates sticking together. This is nowhere as good as fresh oil.
If the clutch is properly adjusted and in good condition, you should be able to pull in the clutch, count to five and snick it into gear with no noise or drama. Well, maybe for the first time in the morning.  |
Nillaice
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 11:12 pm: |
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clutch adjusted (at same adjustment as before) fluid level verified, and primary chain tightened. it was at the larger end of the 1/2 inch to 3/8 of the band. adjusted to 3/8. still jumps, but only upon initial shift into first gear, but not subsequent shifts between neutral and first. i guess it was just the inertia of the gears after they get spun up when idling in neutral with the clutch let out.
is that a run-on sentence?
didn't see any water or gunk or gremlins inside the primary casing. what the hell do you find when you change your oil, Sparky?
sorry for making a mountain out of a mole-hill. thanks for the advice, guys} |
Jackbequick
| | Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2008 - 05:16 pm: |
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The 1/2-3/8" called for in the service manual has been found to be a little on the tight side.
You can browse the KV and read on for hours about it but most agree with 5/8-3/4" being a better range to shoot for. And that would be the total movement, up and down, with a cold engine. It will get tighter with the engine warm.
If you continue to have any problems, you might just try unlocking the primary chain adjusting bolt and back it down (unscrewing it) 1/8th or 1/4th or a turn or so. As long as the chain is not clacking on the primary cover, you've not gone too far.
Also you mention one clutch adjustment, there are actually two adjustments there. The first is the clutch adjusting screw in the center of the clutch hub (under the cover on the primary cover).
The service manual sequence is to first adjust the primary chain. Then back the clutch lever free play/cable length adjuster off, making the clutch lever floppy at the bar. Then do the clutch adjusting screw adjustment.
Then adjust the clutch lever free play.
When you do all three adjustments and get them right it can make a big difference. Doing one or the other sometimes does not help as much or changes some other aspect of it all.
Jack |
Nillaice
| | Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2008 - 05:39 pm: |
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i followed the service manual with verbatim compliance, and forgot to mention that i had performed both clutch adjustments.
good catch on that, btw
it would seem to me that having the chain too loose (even before it starts to clank on the primary casing) would cause bad wear on the tips of the gear teeth, eventually to let it jump teeth. (but i can't really say i'm a motorcycle tranny expert on this one, just thinkin' 'bout it)
is the factory setting so tight and it will stretch the chain even more than when under heavy acceleration and chew up the adjustment shoe when down-shifting?
does the chain/clutch adjust sequence really matter? my service manual has
the clutch adjustment in section 1.9, and the primary chain is in 1.11, so i did the chain second because i turned to the clutch adjustment page first. |
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