| Author | Message | ||
     Xb9r43 |
Hi I hope someone can help me out, For the second time my horn will kill the engine at low RPM it was fixed by the dealer the first time, this was after I looped the bike trying to wheelie (I know it was dumb)I thought it was caused by my goof up. | ||
| Srirage |
Hell-O fellow Buellerz...I was riding down the highway and looked down to discover I was going ZERO MPH!!! my trip meter and odo froze as well. I ride a 2000 CycloneM2 Is it a speedo sensor im looking for, if so, can I easily install it myself? Id rather not take it to a shop and get worked. Runnin out of gas is no fun either!! PLEASE HOOK A BROTHER UP!!!!! | ||
| Mikej |
Speedo Sensor most likely. Allen/hex wrench and maybe a cable tie. 15-45 minutes in a garage or parking lot. I did one in 10 minutes in a dealership parking lot with a borrowed wrench during a 30 minute lunch break with a 10 minute ride each way and got back to work on time. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Yep! It's your speedo sensor. Check out this thread for the solution to your problem! http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=176403#POST 176403 Good luck! Brad | ||
| Reepicheep |
I have filters built and ready to ship if the new Buell part sensor and filter assembly not yet available. You have three options. 1) Wait for the updated part (released any day now) and buy it. 2) Buy the current part (speedo sensor only) and add my filter to it. 3) Use the parts discussed by 99x1 here on this board to rebuild your current sensor assembly, then add one of my filters. Email me offline (my address is in my profile) with a shipping address and I will have a filter (not a new sensor, you will need to get that yourself) on its way by tomorrow afternoon. Don't just throw another sensor on there without adding a filter, it will likely just get blown also. I bled enough money to the Harley mothership this afternoon for lots of little transmission parts... don't you go sending them money that you can avoid... | ||
| Firemanjim |
ALL S-2 OWNERS!!!Just an electrical tip for all of you.This is the second time this has happened to me,once on each S-2.Behind the battery is an array of circuit breakers,(which get regularly exposed to water,grime,etc.)Driving in very hot conditions this last week,I started to drop a cylinder.The first time I thought I had loaded up a little.It gradually got worse.The telling symptom is when the cylinder cuts out the tach drops 1/2 speed.Replacing the 2 circuit breakers near the left side(ignition related ones) cures the problem.Thankfully any auto parts store has them,cheap.1-15A, 1- 30A.Carry spares.The last time this happened ,Ferris and I were in Phoenix at about 110 F. | ||
| S2pengy |
Yea it happened to Darkside Danny at Deals Gap, Good idea on a long ride to carry spares or you can try filing the mechanical points under the cover.... | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Jim, Your not going to believe this but that very thing happened to me on Friday! I knew it was heat related but I haven't had time to do the trouble shooting! It was really hot here on Friday and I got caught in rush hour. You may have just save me a whole lot of time! I'll buy you a beer at Bonneville! Brad edited by bluzm2 on July 28, 2003 | ||
| X1carbon |
Need help with charging problem with '99 X1. Thought the 4 year old battery was dead so I replaced it. After riding about 30 minutes with new battery and engine still running, the horn doesn't blow - only a weak hum. Starter spins slower too. I put a volt meter across the battery terminals and rev'd the engine to about 4K rpms and the meter reads a constant 12.5 volts from idle to 4K. Is this normal? Seems like the voltage should increase somewhat as the rpms are increased. What is the weakest link of the charging system? Thanks in advance for any suggestion/comments. | ||
| Mikej |
Check your stator output. The process is in here somewhere, I've never done it and don't play with electricity if I can avoid it. What kind of primary fluid are you running, just out of curiosity? From your profile: "Preferred engine oil (brand/grade): Crisco " I may see a problem here.  edited by mikej on July 28, 2003 | ||
| Mikej |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=162921#POST 162921 | ||
| X1carbon |
Thanks Mike. Seems like I created that profile 4 years ago. I tried to update it, but, Blake yanked my ability to edit my profile because AOL kept kicking back automatic emails of posts. He changed my notification preferences. I can't say he didn't warn me.  LOL | ||
| Ccryder |
My 00' X1 at 34k miles finally ate it's first speedo sensor. $48 and 25 minutes and Stripe'r knows how fast she is going again. If this one lasts as long as the first I'll be happy. BTW are the sensors supposed to be magnetic?? THe new one is slightly magnetic but the old one was pretty strong. Seems self defeating to be a magnet and to collect particles that could inhibit from doing it's primary job (just my $0.02). Later, time 2 ride. Neil S. | ||
| Court |
>>>Seems self defeating to be a magnet and to collect particles that could inhibit from doing it's primary job El Stripmeister....your keen grasp of the obvious continues to make you a stand out amongst Buellers! By the way, given your recent luck...in the event of lightning whilst at Bonneville (perish the thought)...you will be asked to stand alone away from the Elves whom I am sworn to preserve and protect!  | ||
| Joem |
X1Carbon "What is the weakest link of the charging system?" Common problems summarized here... http://TheX1Files.com/index.htm#Electrical | ||
| X1carbon |
Thanks Joe. BTW, The voltage regulator was grounded. I checked with continuity tester. In fact, the VR even had the extra ground wire on back of it. All connections appear tight. I didn't see an easy way to get to the stator wiring to check. I guess I'll drop it off at HD/Buell and let them screw me. BTW#2, my 4 year extended warrantee expired 14 days ago!! | ||
| Bent1 |
Hey all, I'm having a starter problem. I have a 2000 X1. Recently the bike won't start up, and it sounds like the starter solenoid isn't throwing out- getting a grinding sound. If it does engage, the bike won't fire up! Just turns over at regular speed, but no bang-bang. Here's the other strange (to me) part- If I hold in the clutch lever, and then start the bike, it starts prefectly, weather in gear or in neutral. So thats what I've been doing, with no problems. Of course, I don't trust it. So, any ideas? Thanks Ben | ||
| Bent1 |
I forgot to mention, the bike has 13.8 volts @ 3000 RPM, 12.4 volts sitting, so I believe the battery is ok, and the system is charging. Ben | ||
| Srirage |
word up yall....I found the speed sensor, took it off, cleaned it( it was very oily ) put it back on..with no results. A spike probably toasted it. Replacing it looks beyond the scope of my current mech skills! Could one of you kind sirs, describe the operation step-by-step, to better explain this to me? Maybe its easier than it looks. I really dont want to go with a after=market speedo, and put all that epoxy all over my ride! Riding without this is such a drag! Im allways watchin for those coppers! and with alot of them leanin on ya for just 6-7 above the posted, its cramping my rides!, guessing when im gunna run outs petro is nerve racking as well. other than that, the paint bubbling up around my gas cap, and the right side of my leg feeling massive amounts of heat when I ride, I love my machine! All the jeans I own have a small burn hole near the bottom of my right pant leg! dose this sound familiar? should it be getting that hot? i ride a 2000 M2 Cyclone, with 13XXX miles, and its a wonderful bike! I really need to take care of this speedo prob though! thanx for all your time and help yall! KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN!!! EAST TROY WI, REPRESENT!!WHAT WHAT!!!LOL TAKE CARE BROS!  | ||
| Mikej |
Jason, The hardest part in the equation will be getting to the connector on the other end of the speedo sensor cable. On my 2000 M2 it was cabletied into a bundle of wires up under where your left thigh is while on the bike, on the frame member right near the upper left rear corner of the battery. I clipped the cable tie, pulled the connector out, and re-cabletied the bundle. Then I recabletied the harness-side connector to allow for quicker future changes, which I can now do without removing the seat/rear bodywork. If you're already familiar with the assembly you should be able to unclip/disconnect the speedo sensor cable connector from the harness connector without removing the bodywork. Just follow the cable from where the sensor plugs into the transmission across the bike and up along the battery area. You should be able to find where it connects in. It's more hassle than hard to replace. As far as the heat thing goes, is the heat shield still on the bike? I have never burned my leg nor pants on my M2 in over 20,000 miles of riding it. Has your bike been rejetted? Has the timing been checked? It should not be getting hot enough to burn fabric as long as the heat shield is still in place and as long as you are of somewhat normal proportions. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Srirage... Email me your address offline (my email is in my profile) and I will take care of you. It will probably be a week or so until I get the next batch of filters built, but it won't be that long. Buell will likely have an upgraded part out with a built in filter "any day now" if you want to wait. But who knows what "any day now" is. If you can put together electronics, I will send you parts and a schematic tomorrow. If you can solder 6 solder joints (or just wire nut them and seal them real well), I will send you an assembled filter to insert in your replacement sensor. If you are not comfortable with any of that, send me a new sensor and I will build the filter into it and return it. Or just wait for the new Buell part to be release. No idea how much it will cost. My heat shield has been off my 2000 M2 for most of the life of the bike, never burned anything. You backfiring out some odd aircleaner setup? Have an exhaust leak? (check the header studs, and upgrade that front exhaust header to the new part if you have not yet.. then replace the primary chain tensioner). Bill | ||
| Sparky |
Hey good news for Firebolt owners (older Buells & Sportsters too, I imagine)! My dealer has in his hand an upgraded speedo sensor with a wire bundle that appears to be thicker in the middle. The p/n ends in 01/B. Could this be the long awaited one endowed with a regulator/filter? Oooh, I hope so. Sparky | ||
| Reepicheep |
Woo Hoo! My salvation is near! | ||
| Buellbob |
I need to ask a question about batteries. Is there a difference between the odyssey pc545 and pc545mj or is it just an older part# to newer part# thing? Bob | ||
| Dave |
The MJ is simply Metal Jacket (black). I have one on my S3. DAve | ||
| Buellbob |
Dave Thanks for that info. Bob. | ||
| Stot |
Hi, Ill try here too, Can anyone tell me where the BAS is on a Firebolt? Cheers Stot | ||
| Bud |
stot, on top off the ecm, why do you think it's broken ?? looks like my xb has the same problem at this moment?? wen really hot, it begins to hold back very strongly, when i close the throttle a tiny bit. no flashing light's, no code's !. had already a ETS replaced & tps zeroing 2e ( way to rich 121% ) after tps zero, is is gone, for 30 miles then the fuel value is learend in the ecu gr,m | ||
| Chadwixk |
2000 M2 Electrical Problem How problem first occurred: - Riding for about 15 miles (a day after returning from Sturgis), bike sputtered, all electrical died. Symptoms: - Turn ignition, click starter button, solenoid engages then all electrical goes out. - Immediately turn ignition switch to off then back to Run, but no power (electric) at all. - After some random amount of time, turn ignition switch to Park, lights come on, turn to Run, electical dies, turn back to Park, have power, but weak, pressing horn will run power to nil again. What I've checked: - When no power is emminent, tested main circuit breaker. Its OK (completing circuit). - When no power is emminent, run voltmeter across battery terminals. When iginition is Off, reads 12.7v, when turn ignition to park or Run, reads near 0v. Seems like some sort of shorting that is initiated by pressing the starter button. Anyone had anything similar? Any ideas? Chad | ||
| Reepicheep |
I think your battery is toast, or at the very least your charging system has not charged it. If you had a good charged battery, and were somehow able to bring the voltage down to zero, you would be delivering something on the order of 300 amps, and at that current you could melt a wrench. If the battery reads zero, and the bike is not on fire, the battery is probably toast. |
