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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Lubrication - Engine Oil, Transmission Oil, Bearing Grease... » Archive through July 30, 2008 » Oil Change Question « Previous Next »

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Dummkauf
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2008 - 06:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just bought a 2002 Blast, and I decided it might be a good idea to change out the oil since I can't really be sure when the last time it was done was(purchased from a private party). I followed the directions for draining the oil as directed in the owner's manual. Removed the hose clamp and removed the plugs from the two hoses coming down behind the passenger foot peg on the left hand side of the bike. One of the hoses drained oil, very slowly, and the other had a creme color slime that came out followed by a very small amount of oil. It took probably about an hour for it to quit draining oil(the hose with the creme slime was done in about 2-3 minutes). Afterwards I changed the oil filter, put the plugs and clamps back on the tubes, and filled it up(almost 2 quarts of oil).

My question is should it take almost an hour to drain the bike and is that creme colored slime something I should be concerned with??
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Monday, March 17, 2008 - 07:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I get the creamy goo from the breather hose every time I change the oil in my 07 blast.

I always assumed it was a combination of oil residue and moisture - i've seen the same substance in fubar automotive engines when water is leaking into the oil.

Removing the fill cap in front of the tank should speed things up, as well as taking the filter off as soon as the draining slows down to a drip. Also, warm oil will drain faster than cool.

Check the manual for what position the bike should be sitting in while draining. Depending on where the oil is draining from, it might drain faster on the sidestand / perfectly level / or in some other position.

Hope this helps, but I'm far from an expert
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Dummkauf
Posted on Monday, March 17, 2008 - 04:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That may be it. I did remove the filler cap too thinking that might be part of the slowness issue but that made no difference. It was about 38 degrees outside when I changed it and I didn't warm it up first so that very well may have been the reason for the slow drain. As far as position goes I just had it supported by the kickstand on my level garage floor.

My main concern is the cream colored goo since I have never seen that come out of an engine before(note that I am new to motorcycle engines, and all of my mechanical knowledge up until now is on autos)

After the change I started it up, let it warm up, added a little more oil to get it at the right level and took it for a spin around the block and didn't notice any problems.
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Monday, March 17, 2008 - 07:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

From kawasakimotorcycle.org :

"White oil or "milky puddle"... if composed of engine oil, indicates water contamination."

If you're not seeing the same white substance out of your drain hose, or around the filler cap when you check oil level then I wouldn't worry about it. Since the breather hose isn't under constant pressure it can collect moisture because of changing temperatures.

I've never tried this but I've heard that if you want to test for water in the oil, pull the dipstick and let some drip off onto a hot surface like the header after a ride. If you hear sizzling there's water in the oil.
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Bombardier
Posted on Monday, March 17, 2008 - 11:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Run the bike up nice and hot before you change the oil.
This will burn off the mixture of oil and water and make the muck in the bottom of the engine mix with the oil and drain out with the oil change.
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