| Author | Message | ||
     Xb12mel |
I've read a lot about the conversion to the R tail.. and frankly, I could care less. BUT... Since the wife is starting to want to go out and ride a bit with me the Scg seat is just not going to work out for much longer. Does anyone know if the Seat Sub frame from the 12SS (or even the 12X) bolt up to the standard 12S frame? or does the longer frame on the SS change the bolt hole locations? Thanks!  (Message edited by xb12mel on February 18, 2008) | ||
| Ruskiface |
I am doing a similar conversion. I've got an XB12Scg and I bought a Corbin seat, not realizing it was for the XB12Ss. I also just bought (from the dealer) tail arms: (Left & Right) Seat Pan and because the dealership recommended it: Battery Holder Solenoid Holder (apparently they are slightly different from the two) all for the XB12Ss The dealership has never done a conversion like this, and they said that for $2K they would work it out for me. being cheap, I bought the $400 worth of parts (on top of the $400 seat) and I'm going to just go at it myself. I'll let you know if the bolt holes line up, if it turns out awesome, or a complete failure. | ||
| Ruskiface |
Okay, so I did the conversion. this is a list of things you'll need: ----- the XB12Ss Tail arms (left and right) the XB12Ss plastic seat plate tray. Battery Holder. Seat release Cable. ----- everything else (more or less) either fits, or works with just a little bit of modification. Bad news first: Bolt patterns for the tail arms don't line up exactly. The Lock retaining plate is different, but if you've got a dremmel tool, it's easily modified to fit. (it's a $5 part, but they didn't have one in stock, and i'm inpaitent) There are two bolt positions for each arm to the main frame of the bike. the bottom one works just fine, but the top has two problems. problem one: there's a dip in the molding that needs to be dremmeled out. took about 2 minutes on each side. you are just cutting away a ridge that makes it so things don't slide together. The bolt holes don't line up, even with the ridge removed. to solve this, I got a 5/16" titanium drill bit, and cross-drilled a new hole. starts off in a slightly different position, and ends up boring out the same hole in the interior. then I got a 2" long machine bolt from home depot, and threw a nut and a lock washer on there. worked beautifully. If I wanted to go back to the original for some reason, I'd have to stick with the nut and bolt routine as the original threads are destroyed, but it would still be sturdy. --- Finally, getting the guts to fit took a little work. this may have been due to my new seat, but i would imagine that some movement would be necessary for anyone. I had to move the fuse box out of it's original metal retained position, and stick it next to it. The adjustable shock coil originally had a retaining bracket connecting it to the seat tray. i couldn't get it to work so I built a new bracket that attached the old bracket to a better position. It most likely could have just set there without any issues, but I don't want things knocking around as I drive down the road. I used a zip tie to hold the oil overflow resivor in place. on the original arm there was a spot for it. the new arms had a similar spot, but it didn't quite line up. if you hate zip ties, you could buy a new overfill resivor, but it dosen't look bad with it held in place. you can't see the ties. --- anyways: all told it only took about $350 worth of parts. plus the $400 seat that I was putting on. it is about a million times more comfortable. all told I'm happy with it. Hope this helps someone. | ||
| Xb12mel |
It does help. And its a lot cheaper then buying a new bike | ||
| Jlrenken |
how did you latch the seat in the front. the ss frame is diff than the s and the ss has a metal piece that goes into the frame on the ss. and the s has the hook on the bottom of the molding of the seat. |
