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Midknyte
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 11:52 am: | 
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I chose a 6000k bulb.
I only did the low beam. I think that another slim ballast would fit on the other side. The blinker relay might be in the way but it can easily be moved.
I must admit that I've not yet gone for an evening ride. Spring has been cold and wet here. Actually had clumping rain (near snow) here, in Chicago, just yesterday.
I rather expect that I'll be using my high beam a lot less and I like the idea of a standard bulb in the high beam as something of a backup. The On/Off use of the high beam is supposed to be hard on the ballast as well. |
Midknyte
| | Posted on Friday, May 09, 2008 - 12:26 pm: |
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FYI - The turn signals I started this thread off with are junk.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/357328.html?1210349841
I'll post up again when I find a good alternative... |
Midknyte
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 13, 2008 - 11:49 pm: |
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Back to playing with my stock signals. Worth seeing if I can mod them up and save $100+ on LED sigs.
I started to last season but stopped because while an 1157 bulb could be made to fit the base, it was too tall to re-assemble...
I went back and checked to see if it would fit if I left out the amber insert and hey, it does. So I'll use use amber bulbs instead...
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Midknyte
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 13, 2008 - 11:53 pm: |
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Dremel out the base a little bit to allow for the stepped nubs on the bulb base...
Twist the existing contact to the side for one of the filaments...
Now off to Ace Hardware to get strip of copper to make a contact for the other filament... |
Midknyte
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 13, 2008 - 11:54 pm: |
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I have no idea if the stock signal housings will hold up the heat of an always on bulb,
but it costs only my time and a few dollars to find out... |
Midknyte
| | Posted on Thursday, May 15, 2008 - 01:22 am: |
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Nik
| | Posted on Thursday, June 19, 2008 - 02:16 am: |
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I used the stock lights but added relays. I had to get an LED flasher from American Sport Bike, but you'll have to get a new flasher with 1157s too. It was tough to squeeze everything up front and under the seat but not impossible. Details to follow, I just finished this earlier today. |
75aztec
| | Posted on Friday, July 04, 2008 - 05:35 pm: |
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HI,
I picked a pair of "Shock Racing" LEDs that installed in a few hours for $35.00 a pair. The only problem was that the wires come with plugs that don't fit the Buell's so I cut them off and picked up some bullet ends at Ace that fit. I added the American Sportbike flasher unit and it all works and looks good. They LEDs are smaller but are still really bright.
Ride safe! |
Nik
| | Posted on Monday, July 07, 2008 - 03:01 pm: |
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Since that picture was taken I've tinted the rear inner lenses red using a candy apple red transparent model paint in order to be legal. Came out nice. |
Midknyte
| | Posted on Monday, July 07, 2008 - 04:02 pm: |
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Nik,
Were you stopped or hassled for having ambers? |
Nik
| | Posted on Monday, December 08, 2008 - 09:40 pm: |
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Were you stopped or hassled for having ambers?
No, but I've had silly little things like that be used as excuses to pull me over in the past, and it's easy enough to avoid the potential hassle now.
Since I never posted details... I used 4 relays part # 275-248 from radio shack.
One the bike side: A constant hot (I used the lead for the middle bulb on the lightning headlight assembly that's unused on US bikes on the front and the license plate light on the back) goes to the Normally closed pin, the signal wire and a ground go to either side of the relay coil.
From the relay to the signal: the signal hot wire goes to the comm pin on the relay. |
Nillaice
| | Posted on Thursday, September 23, 2010 - 09:25 pm: |
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yes, i drew it on paper with a sharpie, and then colored it in with some crayons
the turn signals are on thier own independent circuit, isolated from eachother and the brake circuit.
putting the aux running lights in paralell with eachother they act as a ground path for the running/tag lamp.
when the brake is applied, there is a less resistive flow path, thus supplying a higher voltage to the aux running lamps.
i'm pretty sure the longer filament has LESS resistance since it is brighter. i can't find my fluke tonight, other wise i'd verify for you all.
-sorry-
if i'm wrong, and you sand/file/grind off the higher nub; the 1157 bulbs can be removed,rotated 1/2 turn and re-installed in the turnsignal sockets to switch the filaments in the circuits, while the lower nub will still retain the bulb in the socket.
so, no diodes/resistors are REQUIRED but, as they say 'there is more than one way to skin a cat' |
Nillaice
| | Posted on Friday, September 24, 2010 - 11:58 pm: |
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the OEM (center/brake light) 1157 bulb has a 2.8 ohm and a 0.6 ohm filament. the 0.6 ohm was waaay brighter and instantly felt warm/hot in my hand.
then i saw spots for like 3 minutes |
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