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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Electrical - Battery, Charg Sys, Lights, Switches, Sensors & Guages » Archive through March 14, 2008 » Electrical breakdown « Previous Next »

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Italialaw
Posted on Friday, November 02, 2007 - 11:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a 98 s3 with:

-stock alternator (original)
-odyssey battery (3 years old)
-crane "fireball" voltage regulator,
rated for use with 32 amp or less
alternator and 30 amp circuit
breaker (3 months old)

My bike sat for about 2.5 weeks so I threw it on the battery charger and the battery was at 73%. Charged up in about a half an hour, started no problem, and rode the bike about 20 miles. The bike sat for about an hour or so and I started it and is sputtered a bit but fired up. Rode the bike about 4 miles and all of sudden my lights start dimming. Next, my turn signals and horn stop working. About a total of 15 miles to my house and the bike starts to sputter as I am pulling in my driveway. I shut the bike down and attempt to restart it and no sound or motor turning. I put the charger on and the battery read 10%.

Because the voltage regulator is rated at "32 amp or less" could that have fried my alternator? I have had this regulator for at least 1000 miles with absolutely no problems. Any thoughts on the problem before I start digging? If I have to replace the alternator is the clutch assembly, primary chain, etc. difficult to remove? Any tips or tricks would be appreciated. Thank you!
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Firemanjim
Posted on Saturday, November 03, 2007 - 02:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have your battery load tested. Your alternator is meant to keep your battery at a full charge not recharge your drained battery. Need to have the battery fully charged for the system to work properly.
You can run diagnostic tests on your system easily. If you don't have a manual,there is a copy of the S-1 manual here in the KV.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Saturday, November 03, 2007 - 08:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't have all the numbers here in front of me, but some rough rules of thumb guesses make me think that a 32 amp regulator is probably about right, maybe just a little on the low side. Its whatever the stator capacity is (in watts) divided by 13. Thats the amps.

Your battery did not charge from the bike... so either it does not have a good connection (could not get the current), has the current blocked or shunted somewhere (bad voltage regulator) or the current is never getting produced (bad stator).

I always start with the stator, just because its easy. Does your primary fluid stink more then usual?

20 miles may not be enough to fully recharge a battery, but it should not have drained it... unless there is some other problem. I am guessing stator... 20 - 30 miles is about as far as I would get on a charged battery when my stator was toast.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Saturday, November 03, 2007 - 09:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, I looked it up... based on the 1125r stator (which is 540 watts), you need like a 42 amp regulator. So my rule of thumb guess is probably pretty close... that crane regulator is not necessarily doomed, but it does not have a lot of margin either.
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Bad_karma
Posted on Wednesday, November 07, 2007 - 12:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Chris
If you are not getting a charge from the system check the Voltage regulator connector by the oil pump. Make sure the tie rape used to hold the two connectors together hasn't cut through a wire.
Joe
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