| Author | Message | ||
     Ohioskydiver |
ok someone help me please. i changed my pads and everything went good. i had good pressure in the lines. i decided to see if i had any air in line so i cracked the bleeder open and close just like you normally would. now i have no pressure in lines. yes i have plenty of fluid. i pumped and pumped the brake lever and i cant get the pressure back. someone help me please. Brian | ||
| Steveshakeshaft |
I found that unless you actually lift the brake pedal before stroking it downwards, I was not in fact stroking the cylinder fully. It would not bleed until I discovered this little foible. I can now bleed the rear brake fully with about 3 to 5 downward strokes. HTH. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I seem to recall Henrik or somebody posting that they had to remove the assembly and rotate it to just the right direction to get a few last bubbles out... but it's a fuzzy memory... | ||
| Court |
Henrik will be here soon . . . I've reported you for holding a conversation about bleeding brakes without notifying the "Great Dane" . . our resident expert! Who would you rather have developing the brake bleeding procedure than a surgeon? Sit tight . . he'll be here soon.  | ||
| Henrik |
Anyone mention brake bleeding .... (in the voice of the crazy bomb maker in the Muppet Show: "did anyone say bang ...?) If you have plenty of fluid (you checked the reservoir as well - right?), then loss of brake pressure is most commonly air in the brake lines. Steve's got it right in that you need to move the brake lever to a point where the master cylinder piston allows the fluid to flow through the tiny bleed hole in the master. This is much easier to see and appreciate when you look into the reservoir of the front brake. Sometimes the piston movement inside the master gets "stiff", and the piston doesn't move far enough to clear the bleed hole, so keep an eye out for that. But if that doesn't work then, like Bill said, I've removed the rear caliper from the swingarm to get the slope of the brake line to a point where I can move the bubbles to where they'll exit the system. I almost always (well make that always) bleed my brakes from the caliper and up using the syringe method: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/174272.html?1191603550 Between pushing brake fluid *up* into the system, pushing the air in front of the fluid, and being able to pump the fluid back and forth easing those last little bubbles out, that's what works best for me. So in your current situation, unless you've gotten it fixed already, I'd take the caliper off and try to hold it *higher* than the master cylinder, and do full brake pedal strokes as Steve described. Make sure to "light pressurize-open bleeder-pump-close bleeder while still on the down stroke" to avoid air getting sucked back into the system. An extra set of hands will make this much easier. If you have access to a syringe or other pressure bleeder system I'd re-bleed the system from the bottom-up with the caliper *lower* than the master cylinder. Hope this helps. Henrik (Message edited by Henrik on October 28, 2007) | ||
| Court |
See what I mean? You should see his toolbox . . . | ||
| Steveshakeshaft |
Please Mr Canfield, can I be a surgeon now too?  | ||
| Ohioskydiver |
thanx to all who gave me advice. i got them bled thankfully. i appreciate everyone. Brian |
