| Author | Message | ||
     Sarodude |
I had my first go at yanking & replacing the front pulley / sprocket (heretofore likely referred to as a sprocket). It was on a friend's Blast. We needed to do this in order to replace the neutral switch. Before I forget, that mondo nut sits on a LEFT HAND THREAD. With that out of the way, I can say that doing this on the Blast posed 2 challenges: Removing that ridiculous footpeg mount (a job in itself) and fighting beach corrosion between the tranny output shaft and the nut - which, BTW, is a LEFT HAND THREAD. I had tons of fun trying to break & undo that LEFT HAND THREADed nut on the output shaft. We couldn't hold the bike steady. It kept moving forward as I turned the breaker bar clockwise on the LEFT HAND THREADed nut. In the end, I gave in to the Evil God of Cheap Air Tools, set the gun on forward (since this is a LEFT HAND THREAD, after all) and watched as my cheap compressor and cheaper impact gun laboriously broke and SLOWLY backed out the nut. I even used some Liquid Wrench on the thing but I'm not sure how much good it did on those corroded LEFT HAND THREADs. When putting the thing back on (which, BTW, is counterclockwise due to the LEFT HAND THREAD) I kept wondering about using some sort of anti-sieze on that joint. The nut is positively held on. I don't know if it'd hurt - but I didn't try it. Things learned: * 1 7/8" socket - perhaps a 48mm will work * Use Liquid Wrench or some other penetrant * Corrosion may cause SIGNIFICANT resistance to nut removal along the whole thread * If your front pulley comes off as easily as this one, you'll be pissed as hell at why the nut was so effin' insane Just thought I'd post this someplace. I did some searching and couldn't find the info. -Saro PS - Be careful of that big nut as it's got a left hand thread. edited by sarodude on June 25, 2003 Didn't know I could edit so late in the game edited by sarodude on June 26, 2003 | ||
| Blake |
Saro, Thanks for sharing your experience. Just one observation... You've confused your terminology a bit... The sprocket is on the main shaft. The countershaft is completely internal to the transmission. Also... A service manual is a really good thing. | ||
| Sarodude |
Blake- Sorry about the terminology. I'm still plagued by some prior vehicular stuff where the countershaft was the output shaft. I posted this stuff 'cause the service manual (which I do have - and DID read - and actually REPLACED after I lost my first one) didn't seem to caution the naive reader (ME!) about something as seemingly obvious as corrosion - and maybe suggesting something to do about it. Perhaps you could edit my post and the title of this thread with the appropriate wording... -Saro | ||
| Blake |
You can edit your own post. I'll take care of the title. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Saro... why not just jump straight to the airtools to start? Is there some disadvantage to using them that I don't know about? I know trying to get my clutch and generator nuts off with a breaker bar felt like I was taking my life into my hands... One false move and SOMEBODY is gonna loose a finger... | ||
| Sarodude |
* I've heard about less than cool things that happen to bearings when impact wrenches are brought into the mix. * I was trying not to open up a brand new compressor so I'd be motivated to fix my old one. cheap bastard wanted to return that compressor * Aside from vehicles moving / shafts turning, I feel that a breaker / cheater is actually a simpler proposition. -Saro | ||
| Aaron |
Saro, I'm not sure on the Blast (the new owner got my service manual), but on the twins, there's a very specific procedure for putting that nut back on. I don't have the book in front of me, but from memory, the gist of it is a little Loctite red on the threads, a little oil on the face of the nut that goes next to the pulley, tighten a specific amount (45 ft-lbs?), then tighten another 30 degrees minimum/45 degrees maximum and put the lock plate on. Someone with a shop manual handy please check me. | ||
| Sarodude |
Aaron- That procedure (though I believe with 50 ft-lbs) is pretty much what was in the Blast book. The thing I didn't properly clarify up there was whether or not something like Loctite is actually needed since there's the seemingly very positive retention happening with that lock plate. Sorry about the lack of clarity. -Saro | ||
| Aaron |
They have you do all those gymnastics because they have a history of problems in that area. They updated the design twice, once in '91 and again in '94, before they got it sorted out. In '91 they added the lock plate (before that there was just a screw that jammed up next to the nut) and in '94 they made the splines on the pulley deeper and came up with a different spacer to go under the pulley. A problem there isn't such a big deal on an XL, but on a Big Twin it's a major PITA. The entire primary chaincase has to come off to fix it. | ||
| Blake |
Saro, Surprisingly, a pneumatic impact wrench is fairly gentle on bearings. It applies pure torque, where a hand wrench also applies significant radial load (shear) to the nut/bearings. It is the manual, beat it with a hammer, type of impact wrench that is the big no-no for use on components that are supported by bearings. In some cases, the thrust type impacts can damage radial ball/roller bearings. Note that there are ways a pneumatic wrench can cause damage too. If for instance you put the bike in 1st gear an use the rear tire/wheel/belt/tranny/primary-chain to back up the crankshaft when torquing the drive sprocket nut, you would likely exceed the peak design loads of the transmission gears and bearings. The little tool that HD/Buell technicians use isolates the load to the chain and primary sprockets only. Zat make sense? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Fantastic Blake! That was exactly the kind of "gotcha" I was thinking that there must be, but that I was not recalling... And exactly the kind of thing I would do. I *knew* the breaker bar was dangerous... I remember applying all 180 foot pounds of torque trying to break that clutch nut while hunched down beside a 450+ pound bike hung from a garage rafter and seeing my little home made aluminum primary immobalizer tool go "sproing". It all happened in slow motion, the aluminum thing went rocketing, and me and the breaker bar collapsed in a heap beside a bike in a puddle of drooled primary fluid, and layed there bleeding from my knuckles. Fortunately, the bike choose not to add injury to insult, and did not flop over on top of me. Went and bought on of Saro's "evil cheap impact tools" the next day, even though I already had the nut off. Thank God for Harbor Freight, sometimes cheap tools are better then no tools... | ||
| Reepicheep |
And while we are on the topic, I will need to go back in there and address my second gear dogs pretty soon. This will be the third time I have had these "big nuts" off the bike... Is there a "magic number" for how many times I should reuse them before replacing? I have never worn out a nut before, but these things are pretty tight, and pretty important. (don't go there)... Bill | ||
| Blake |
As long as it torques up, no worries. The bolt/shaft threads would probably wear out first. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Almost the info I was looking for....but what is the actual correct size: "1 7/8" socket - perhaps a 48mm will work " I need to purchase the socket after work tonight. Thanks!! | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
This product looks like a better solution to the lock nut loosening problem. I thinking that this will fit all Buell front sprocket. JIMS MEGA TRANSMISSION PULLEY NUT Anyone try this product? | ||
| Loki |
Now for the next million dollar question. Output shaft spline to pulley spline fit. Why do I ask this.....cause mine is a big wobbler. And no it is not the bearings as suspected. With the nut torqud down the sprocket really does wobble on the shaft. Beginning to think the pulley is worn. Enuff so that I can move it perpendicular to the shaft and stick a small screwdriver or feeler guages in between the pulley and shaft splines. look at this way....maybe a quarter of the splines are fully engaged at any given time. | ||
| Aaomy |
hey loki, is that your original front sprocket. if so replace it.... i have a 96 s2 and was ripping the splines out of the pulley by 15,000 miles. i have heard of others with the same problem, when i checked with the parts guy he gave me the new # followed by a (B). this means the product has been " revised" twice. i lighten mine before i install them. or you could always go with a al one. i would probably stay away from e-bay unless you knew the year of the bike it came off of. hope this helps. | ||
| Loki |
I would believe its the original one. Not looking forward to pricing one at the locals. hmmm must ping dave. Was not even thinking about ebay on this one. On a lighter note, the bearings are not tharashed as I was thunkin. Was also thinkin someone around here is bound to have one left over from a chain conversion. | ||
| Sportyeric |
Its been brought up here before. The old pulleys are about 1/2" thick at the spline. New ones are 3/4", and last a lot longer. You need to change the spacer behind the pulley and the seal that goes around it. Those two parts run about $30 (?). Plus the pulley. | ||
| Loki |
Already have new seals and a nut. With it all together it really looked like the shaft bearings had bit it. Already have them also. I was chasing an oil leak, that is how this was found. Well anyway pulling the drive off showed it was not the bearings. The pulley nearly slid off the shaft before I could catch it. | ||
| Pmpski_1 |
I'm replacing my belt with a chain, so I'm currently going through this procedure. 2 questions: 1. The manual says nothing about the holding tool when removing the sprocket. Is it necessary? 2. The manual says to use the holding tool when installing the sprocket. Will the holding tool work with my new chain sprocket, or does it only work with the belt drive sprocket? thanks! |
