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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Ergonomics/Controls - Seats, Pegs, Bars, Grips, Levers, Pedals » Archive through August 26, 2008 » Pro taper bars making bike run bad « Previous Next »

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Dropnstyle
Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2007 - 09:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

sorry posted in az thread as well but need answer. i have 06 12s and put the pro taper carmichle bars on and shortly after bike would start up but die about 5 times before it would idle and kinda jump from 1500 down to 700 or so. Roll on the throttle slowly and it would cough chug backfire and run like crap. I have 900 miles so i figured must be tps reset so took to dealer. Get a phone call today that its the bars fault. The throttle housing (with the kill switch and start switch) has to be tightned because of no locater tab on the bars that its causing the cables to bind inside and not let the throttle butterfly close all the way . So i offered to buy a new housing (i broke the tab off to get it to tighten down) and drill a locater hole myself since they "cant modify the bar". Service guy calls me back, nope still wont work because the bars are still causing the cables to bind, so i nicely ask if the tech can re route the cables to make the bars work since i know there are tons of people using them. Get a call back, nope still wont work. So i just sold all my stock stuff so parts and labor im lookin at $270 to put back to stock. So what the hell am i doing wrong? I really dont like the stock bars and the way this dealer is acting i know they wouldnt want to do the cable routing on a set of crossroad bars. lol and the pro tapers do feel really good. Sorry its driving me crazy and of course they dont have stock parts in stock so i have a week, but if i can figure how to get my pro tapers to work then id rather go down and show them how to make mine work. thanks , sorry for rant
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Sweatmark
Posted on Thursday, October 18, 2007 - 12:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the Pro Taper SEs are stock width, then the throttle cables will be really tight when run through the XB-S front as per stock bars. Solution is to shorten the SE by cutting 1/2" or so off each end of the bar.

Best solution for mounting the RHS switchgear is to drill that hole!

An option for full-width bars is to re-route the throttle cables directly from the RHS throttle/switch module across the back/tail side of the triple clamp top, rather than routing the cables around the front. That's how I'm trying to solve the cable length problem with full-width bars that have a bend similar to the SE Carmichael. The throttle cables DO get pinched at full left lock, so watch out for potential problems... plus there's a bit of pull at full right lock, evidenced by increasing RPM blip.
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Dropnstyle
Posted on Thursday, October 18, 2007 - 01:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i havnt cut the bars yet but i put the controls first a half in then i tried 3/4 in. I was doing some reading on here and i did buy the buell traction grips and cut out the middle (since i didnt cut the bars yet) and im kinda worried that i didnt cut the middle out enough. I think im just kinda mad that the tech is basically telling me the bars wont work period. I didtn know if other people were actually drilling that hole or not.
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Fourfourtwo
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 08:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Man Im having a similar problem with renthal ultra low bars. I drilled the mounting hole, but I have binding in the throttle tube, sorta like a cruise lock. The cables arent tight, just the throttle tube.
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