| Author | Message | ||
     Dropnstyle |
Ok I hated the stock bars on a 12s and my buddy had a set of stock crf450 bars layin around so I threw them on. Problem was they didnt clear the tops of the forks. So i dropped the forks down in the triple tree slightly (by 1 line so now the top triple tree is on the second line). I took it up our local mountain and it handled like crap, front end was everywhere in a turn which i kinda thought would happen. So i turned up the rear pre load by 2 clicks and it seems pretty close back to normal (i weigh bout 145 with gear so i have lots of room to play with). I didnt like the fact that i might have screwed my whole geometry up so i went and bought the protaper se carmichals that everybody seems to be using, problem is i dont think im goin to be able to raise the tubes back to where they were originally because they barely clear now. So how is everybody getting these bars to clear (or do they actually barely touch?)? And second i know dropin the forks screwed it up ,but by using a little bit more preload in back and possible a little less up front will i be ok or am i still screwed up and just band aiding it? sorry this was so long. thanks. brian | ||
| Vagelis46 |
From my experience, the XB is very-very sensitive to geometry changes, as you have already noticed. So, make small adjustments to find the best setting. I only need to change the pre-loads, and the difference is noticable. I have never dropped the forks. When changing front pre-load, I do a 1/4 of a turn each time, since if you do a bigger change, you might miss a good setting. A 1/4 of a turn, makes a noticable difference. Also change the rear pre-load, 1 position each time. You have done +2, which might be too much. Since you have dropped the forks by 1 line, as a starting point I would do : +1 rear preload -1/4 of a turn front preload . See how this works. Then try some comp. damp. changes. Changing the comp. damping, also makes small changes in the geometry of the bike, and the to the 'feel'. |
