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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Engine » Fuel System: EFI/DDFI, Carb., Filter, Pump, Tank, Filler-Cap, Fuel » Archive through November 29, 2007 » TPS Reset Questions « Previous Next »

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Jamie
Posted on Friday, August 17, 2007 - 09:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi All,

I just installed a new to me Race ECM and reset the TPS with the VDSTS, Everything seems to have worked just fine...though I have a couple questions.

When I initially hooked up the gear the throttle position was at 6.2. I started backing the idle set screw CCW and watched the software as its throttle values got lower. I was expecting it to eventually read 0.0. But that never happened. It stopped at .6 with an occasional flicker to .4. After about 3 or 4 turns with no further decrease, I screwed the idle adjuster screw back in till the values started to increase, then backed it back out about a turn and 1 1/2. Everything else when smoothly. Once I reset the TPS the value went to zero and everything seemed as I originally expected it to be. Is this normal...to have your throttle position reading .6 with the valve closed?

Then, once the TPS was reset and the bike was warmed up. My throttle position had to be set to 6.7 to maintain around 1050 RPM. Is this normal?

Next, I was a little surprised to see 299 volts on the throttle volts display when I initially hooked it up. Is this normal? If so I'm guessing it millivolts or something.

Lastly, I got some DTC codes throughout the process. I think they were #'s 32 and 33. A warning box came up and said that my fuel pump and #2 injector were shorted to the battery. I've had no problems what-so-evre with my bike. Considering that this race ECM is used, could they be codes that were triggered from the original bike that it was in. Maybe it was out of a crashed bike or something. It does show the data as historical and in the ECM RAM.

Thanks for any help.

R, Jamie
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Tork
Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2007 - 06:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jamie,

The values you see during the TPS reset procedures don't really mean much. Don't sweat it. If the TPS never reaches zero as you back the idle out, the TPS could just be a little off (which you'll correct during the reset), or the throttle might be sticking a wee bit and you need to snap the throttle a couple of times.

The service procedure of setting your idle for a TPS reading of 5.2-5.6 degrees is just a baseline setting so that the bike will start and idle. Then you fine tune your idle speed. If it takes a TPS reading of 6.2 to get your idle speed within spec, no biggee.

As for the rest of the error codes and funky readings, I would reset the error codes, go for a ride and re-check the error codes to see what it says, if anything. I think you are correct in that the ECM may be storing old error data (maybe from a wreck).
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Tank_bueller
Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2007 - 08:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I agree with Tork,
Reset the error codes, and ride, and re-check. I bet you will get nothing.

After you reset the TPS it should read 0.0.
6.x seems a little high at idle, but if that is where it works, then ride it.
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Toona
Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2007 - 11:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I set my TPS using VDSTS, I always back the idle screw out until the throttle body butterfly sticks when twisting the throttle, just a little-assuring me I'm all the way closed. Click the button to reset it in the VDSTS, then turn to the 5.0 range to start the Buell.

I personally like my idle in the 900-950 rpm range. The TPS voltage is usually in the 5.2-5.5 range out of all the resets I've done (maybe 10-12?).
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Ekass13
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 11:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Toona has done this to my bike. He explained the exact same thing to me when he was doing it. Anyway he did a great job and knows what he's talking about. AKA the bike runs great. So great, I told the dealer not 2 touch it....
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Jamie
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 11:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for all the replies. I think I'm going to reset it again...just for practice. And to see what the numbers look like this time.

One thing though...I know you're supposed to back out the screw until the valve sticks...How much of a "stick" is there. I didn't really feel much difference.

R, Jamie
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Tank_bueller
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 12:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Valve stick...
It may not actually "stick"(mine doesn't), but you should be able to hear the magic sound when the butterfly smacks the sides of the throttle body.

Here's what ya do:

Hook the bike up and connect to the ecm.

Monitor the TPS value while backing out the idle adjust.

When the TPS value stops dropping, turn the idle adjust about another full turn to 1.5 turns to make sure it won't make contact in the next steps.

Open the throttle all the way and let go a few times, checking the TPS value each time.

If the value is the same every time, you are good to do the reset.

If the value changes much, there may be another issue such as:
sticking throttle cables
trash or something keeping the butterfly from seating all the way
trash/debris/wires at the throttle "horn" preventing smooth action
etc...

Hope this helps.
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