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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) » Archive through March 20, 2008 » 99 x1 backfiring and cutting out. « Previous Next »

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Dnchevyman
Posted on Monday, August 06, 2007 - 01:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a 99 x1. the other day i was riding and all of a sudden it backfired and died. i pulled over and stopped, looked everything over and it all looks good. it started right back up and i took off. then it started backfiring a lot and cutting out. but it starts up great and idles excellent. but when i give it gas it pops and backfires like crazy and then after that it will do it at idle sometimes. i tried wiggling the run switch, clutch switch, plug wires, i hardwired the kickstand switch. dumped all the gas out and put new in. been through 60 miles of the new gas. has great fuel pressure. its sparratic though. ill go a 1/4 mile and it will run fine, then start backfiring again. it still has all the power its always had. under 4k rpms it is a lot worse than above 4k rpms. anyone have any ideas?????
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Sparky
Posted on Monday, August 06, 2007 - 11:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What does the tach do during these episodes? If it tracks the engine rpms fairly accurately as the engine dies then it may not be an ignition problem. But if it immediately goes to zero as the engine dies, that's an indication of losing the ignition signal and it narrows the scope of troubleshooting a bit.
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Dnchevyman
Posted on Monday, August 06, 2007 - 01:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

it tracks the engine rpms. goes from say... 4200 to 3000 rpms then right back up to 4200 as im cruising down the road...
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Sparky
Posted on Monday, August 06, 2007 - 04:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It could be a bad coil especially if the problem seems to only occur when the engine is hot. Maybe a test would be to aim a heat gun or hair dryer on it when the engine is cold. But it'd probably be best to substitute a known good coil and see if the problem goes away.

Other things to consider:
- Look for error codes in the ECM.
- Does the Check Engine Light come on?
- Verify the integrity of the spark plug cables especially if one touches or comes close to another metal part. Are the cables fairly new?
- There might be an intermittant break in one of the wires to the ECM. This is a toughie to isolate though, but it is a possibility knowing that the '99 model year had some initial EFI wire harness issues.
- I can't imagine any sensor that would cause this except for the cam position sensor (timing trigger module). But this would show up, I think, as a loss of the ignition signal. The heat gun test could apply here.
- An intermittant defective ECM could be the cause too. The heat gun test could apply here too.
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José_quiñones
Posted on Monday, August 06, 2007 - 05:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Along with the things Sparky mentioned,

Check:

The intake seals and the injector o rings. spray the intake area with wd-40 and see if the idle drops.

Check the stator.

The timing cup, a friend of mine had an X1 that would run fine till it got hot, turned out the timing cup would become warped when it got hot and make contact and cause a short.

Good luck
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Endoman28
Posted on Monday, August 06, 2007 - 09:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i'm in need of tech help on my 04 XB12R. engine starts surging spuratily at any RPM and in any gear. changed coil,plugs, reset TPS and AFM problem goes away and comes a week or two later. Any help please service techs at local shop have know idea wats going on no trouble codes will come up
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Dnchevyman
Posted on Friday, August 10, 2007 - 04:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

well, i spent 54 dollars and changed the cam sensor. no luck. i am now getting now spark.... getting voltage to the coil, but no spark. so tomorrow im spending 112 dollars on a coil hoping it fixes it. wish me luck... if its not this, its the computer. i didnt find any wire shorts or breaks that i could find without having a breakout box to test everything.
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Sparky
Posted on Friday, August 10, 2007 - 01:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Voltage to the coil is a good thing. No spark is not good but it is a clue that the problem is between the coil and the cam sensor. What the cam sensor does for the coil is provide a ground path.

You can test the coil to see if it produces a spark as follows:
Prepare the coil with a loose grounded spark plug in one of the High Voltage cables and
1) disconnect all the low voltage wires to the coil (2 wires, right?),
2) connect a jumper wire to one of the coil terminals,
3) connect a +12 VDC wire to the other coil terminal and apply 12 VDC,
4) touch the free end of the jumper to a ground point.
The coil should produce a spark when you remove the grounded jumper.

If it does not make a spark, then the coil is toast. If it does, don't buy a new one yet. Try the heat gun test on the coil and see if it starts to fail then.

(Message edited by sparky on August 10, 2007)
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Bud
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 11:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

endoman..

did the reset the afv ?

if they reset your afv and the bikes run's fine again,
i would check exhaust seal rear cylinder,
intake seals ect.
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Blkout
Posted on Saturday, November 24, 2007 - 11:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My 2000 M2 was running great for years and then one morning it was hard to start and would not idle. The bike still runs great on the top end.It seems like the jetting is all wrong at idle. Local HD shop mechanic said the ignition was bad. 400.00 dollars later he was wrong.This one is making me crazy any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Numb_nutz
Posted on Sunday, November 25, 2007 - 10:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your carb is most likely plugged in the pilot and main fuel passages. Simple to fix. You can do it on the bike if you want. Pull the float bowl remove the jets spray carb cleaner thru the passage ways.
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