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Tm74
Posted on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 - 12:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I want the capability of easily adding electrical accessories and have decided(at least for the time being) to go with a relay and secondary fuse box to keep the battery clean and splices to a minimum. I read up on how it should all go together and it's seems straight forward.

Now the problem. I've got a xb9sx and want to install the relay/fuse box under the seat. Where the heck am I going to fit the fuse box

The relay shouldn't be a problem but there doesn't seem to be much room at all for a fuse box. I would really like to go with a 4 port with a negative bus(so that's 8 port in total). Does anyone know of a good setup for the xb9s? What about a power plate and separate grounding block?
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Fullpower
Posted on Wednesday, July 25, 2007 - 06:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

LOTS of room under the saddle of the XB-S model. HOW big is the relay that you are using???? I store a fair amount of tools, spare bulbs, E-Tape, wire ties, flashlight, master link, 8 INch crescent wrench, etc.

There is an empty relay slot, and also TWO blank fuse slots that you can make use of in the stock fuse box. I use one for my heated grips, and one for my PIAA auxilliary lights.
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Tm74
Posted on Wednesday, July 25, 2007 - 06:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the reply Fullpower.

Where exactly are you putting all this stuff? Is it possible to snap a quick picture? Not a problem if not.

I'm not seeing where I can really locate anything unless I start stacking things on top of what's already there. I'm also afraid to put things close to the rear shock. Maybe that's my problem. If I could store tools and such under there it would be fantastic.

The relay is standard size for this type of application so it's small. The fuse block is larger but still small.

You'll have to excuse my ignorance but I'm not sure how to utilize the extra fuse slots or relay slot. How do you "tap" into it. I may be able to get by without an external fuse block as long as it's switched.
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Fullpower
Posted on Thursday, July 26, 2007 - 03:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Look at the fuse holder, note the 2 unused (spare) slots? they have brass contacts. take about a 16 gauge jumper from the switched side of the key switch relay to one side of the fuse contact. hook your auxilliary load upt to the other fuse contact. there you go, switched, fused circuit.
For my heated vest I just used an inline fuse holder, because I wanted seperate un switched circuit. I use this same heated vest pigtail to plug a battery tender into once in a while during winter months.
As far as the 8 inch adjustable wrench, that has ridden safely wedged forward of the battery since october of 2003, it is pretty well captured by the battery and the seat.
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Tm74
Posted on Friday, July 27, 2007 - 07:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Fullpower. I'll look into that. I think I understand what your talking about. It may be a good starting point but I do have one concern.

Eventually I would like to run:
- Heated grips
- Heated jacket liner(maybe other clothing)
- Electrify my tank bag for things like iPod charger and phone charger
- Do something about the lighting(haven't decided on what just yet but probably no externals)
- Upgrade the horn which may require a splice or external power to battery
- Battery Tender

Nothing unusual here but, correct me if I'm wrong, the main advantage of using the external relay/fuse block would be only one splice into the bikes existing wiring. With my lack of ability in this area I would like to keep it as simple(for the bike) as possible, if that makes sense. If it makes the wiring more complicated that's OK. I just want to stay as far away as possible from the bike's existing wiring.

Am I off base in my thinking here?
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Sparky
Posted on Friday, July 27, 2007 - 11:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wouldn't splice into the existing wiring to add accessories; that's inviting trouble. I've always added a fused power wire, available at Radio Shack or most auto parts, directly to the battery positive terminal screw. I believe a Battery Tender comes with one such cable and a polarized quick-disconnect plug.

Having this quick-disconnect plug opens up all kinds of possibilities to add other electrical accessories without worrying about farkling up the bike's wiring.
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Tm74
Posted on Friday, July 27, 2007 - 12:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sparky, the only problem with doing that is the power won't be switched. I need switched power because sooner or later I'll leave something on and drain the battery. Some items it won't matter but others like heated grips will.

The relay gives me the switched power(only one splice into the bikes' wiring) but I still pull ALL the juice directly from the battery.


Fullpower,
Where is the "switched side of the key switch relay" you mentioned. I realize I don't understand. If I went with an external fuse box/relay could I use that as my switched power without splicing?
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