| Author | Message | ||
     Dnchevyman |
well today i was just checking fluid level in my primary, and ive been noticing my engine had been going through a lot of oil lately. i found out why when i opened up the inspection cover, a quart of oil came pouring out. so now i have to do crank seals. has anyone else done these and do you have any tips? uggghhh its always something with this bike... | ||
| Reepicheep |
It's not a big deal beyond pulling the stator bell, primary chain, and clutch assembly as a unit. You'll need some big freaking sockets and an aluminum locking bar (easy to fabricate, I made one out of smashed flat U channel aluminum from an old sliding closet door track). There is a crank seal installation tool that will make sure you set it at the right depth. Thats the right way to do it. If you don't want to wait for or can't afford the tool, you can take a good hardwood dowel (or even a metal bolt I suppose) and machine a "lip" into it of the correct depth. So half the rod is full length (which will push the seal in) and half is machined back (which will rest on the case). That would let you set the seating depth. I did that with the infamous "green tinker toy" and it worked fine. The depth is not super critical, except that if you seat it too deeply, the bearings will rub on the new seal and cut through it in a few thousand miles. The crank seal tool is an easy way to get it perfect though. Getting the old one out can be a bit of a pain, but it just takes patience (and maybe forceps and needle nose pliars). Be patient, that aluminum sealing surface is soft as butter, and the steel inner parts of the old seal are pretty tough. Don't use the factory torque setting when putting the crank nut back on, they have an updated (tighter) value (225 ft lbs maybe?). Also us the right lock tite and appropriate surface prep. Otherwise that stator will come loose. Lots of info about it in the knowledge vault... | ||
| Dnchevyman |
I noticed a rapid oil loss in the buell on friday. so i pulled the inspection cover off the tranny and about 2 qts of engine oil came spilling out.... Bad crank seal. So i called the harley dealership and they had the seal by monday morning. 4 dollar seal and i have to tear the entire primary drive off.... getting the clutch off required a special harley tool that pressed the basket in. it screwed on the center adjusting nut and pressed down. i made my own with a piece of flat stock and 2 sockets, drilled a hole in the flat stock and stuck the sockets under it, put a nut on the adjuster stud and VALLA. all in all it went fairly smooth, no problems at all. except i need to get a drive on bike lift so i can be at seat level instead of siting on the ground. heres some pics... primary cover off  stator and clutch w/primary drive  primary drive off,  and the coulpret, pos seal made me tear down all that stuff. it was soo brittle that it cracked apart as i pried it out....  | ||
| Bluzm2 |
You do not need to pull the clutch apart to remove it. It comes off as a unit. | ||
| Dnchevyman |
HOW????? so i dont have to do it next time... | ||
| Prior |
You can pull the stator and clutch off together, with the primary chain still on them both. They both ride on a splined shaft and the nuts hold them on. The stator is a big ass magnet, so it's holding on to the end of the crank. Pull the clutch assembly out a bit, until the primary chain binds, and then work the stator out with a big screwdriver until it pops loose (don't damage the magnets in the process). Basically move them both a bit until free. (Message edited by awprior on June 16, 2007) | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Thanks Prior, thats about it. Although I've never used a screwdriver, I just give it a good yank and they always come off. The magnets are quite strong though... Brad | ||
| Fulgur |
Dude - where's the pix? | ||
| Bluzm2 |
What picture? |
