| Author | Message | ||
     Ridrx |
Is this normal? I lightly deglazed the rotor w/a nice non-directional finish. Installed the pads, 10 hard stops from 20mph, 10 hard stops from 40mph, smelled like hell, faded a good bit and got a bit of smoke on the last two stops...just like Al said. Now the rotor looks as if it's been gun blued. Did I OVERheat the brakes? Is the rotor still good or am I going to be giving Al a call for a new one? | ||
| Djkaplan |
If the rotor isn't warped, there is nothing wrong. | ||
| Ridrx |
Thanks man. Just wanted to be SURE BEFORE I take to the streets. That thing got HOT | ||
| Al_lighton |
Sounds like you may have stopped a little harder than you needed to, I've not managed to blue my rotor during break in. But if they aren't pulsing, and are stopping you well, then you're fine. Al | ||
| Buell_bert |
How many Hard Stops in what frame of time? Would you not allow cooling time between hard stops to allow the rotor and pads to cool. When I was I was a mechanic I would tell the customer to be easy on the brakes to let them brake in to allow the heat to transfer and mate the pads to the rotor. Just my 2 cents worth. The rotors should not blue unless under extreme conditions. | ||
| Ridrx |
Went for my first ride on the LRB pads today, man what a difference over the stockers. No more pulsing.I love the feel and progression. No warpage in the rotor I can detect and great stopping power. Maybe I'll replace the rotor/hardware on the next set of pads just to be safe. | ||
| Michael1 |
Mine did the same thing. The smell, the color... the HEAT. But then my first miles on the pads down at Deal's Gap... WOW... what a pad! | ||
| Bueaddicted |
How difficult is it to change the pads? I want to buy the same pads, but I have no idea how to change them, nor do I know what tools I will need. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Paul | ||
| Buelltroll |
My EBC sintereds have been pulsing lately. Maybe it's time to change em ? | ||
| Jlnance |
How difficult is it to change the pads? It is unbelievably easy, you don't even have to remove the wheel. You need an allen wrench. I think the correct size is 5mm. It wouldn't be a bad idea to have some blue loctite too. I can post the procedure if you need me to, but I'd really recommend you buy the service manual. If you're going to be working on your bike, it's a beautiful thing to have. | ||
| Jlnance |
Actually can anyone confirm the correct allen wrench size. I used a 5mm, as it was the best fit, better than any of the SAE sizes. But I still thought it was too loose. | ||
| Bueaddicted |
Jim, could you send the procedure directly to me? I'm going to attempt this, even though I have limited mechanical abilities.  Thanks | ||
| Jlnance |
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| Bueaddicted |
Jim, thanks for all the info - much appreciated. Paul  | ||
| Jlnance |
Let us know how it goes | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I put "golds" on my S2 a couple of weeks ago. I did the required 10 by 10 stops. They sure did smoke! My rotor also turned blue, mine is the old style rotor not the new stainless steel type. No problems though, it works perfect with NO pulsing. Sure is weird seeing your front caliper smoking though... Another thing I noticed, the rotor makes a cool whirring sound now when braking. It's from the pads going over the rotor vent holes. Sounds kind of neat! Brad | ||
| Al_lighton |
I think some of you may be interpreting the "10 hard stops" instructions a little too, well, hard. It USED to be that the Lyndall pads said to do 10 .45G stops from 20MPH followed by 10 .45G stops from 40MPH. Well, I don't know about your bike, but the G meter on mine has never functioned properly. But if the CG of the bike/rider system was at 45 degrees from the front wheel contact point, a 1G stop would be when a stoppie is initiated. A .45G would be about halfway to a stoppie, which is an aggressive stop, but not ridiculously so. If you're bluing your rotor, your probably going a bit much. You want heat AND pressure to bed the pads. The worst thing you could do would be to get heat with little pressure (i.e., by lightly dragging the pads with no substantial clamping force). Unfortunately, this is all to common IF the pistons aren't cleaned prior to being retracted to make room for the new brake pad material. The gook pushed back into the seals makes them a tad sticky and they won't retract as fully, causing light drag. Heat without pressure can glaze the pads without them adopting the groove patterns from the rotor, resulting in poor pad/rotor contact. Sounds like you didn't hurt anything, Brad. The whirring sound is typical of the Lyndalls. They do it even more on wave rotors. Al | ||
| Bueaddicted |
Jim, sorry to tell you that I chickened out... I got all the required tools (borrowed), but either I'm a moron, or I just don't trust myself to do it perfectly. I'm too scared to mess up the brake pad replacement...  Brakes are the most important in a bike, and I have nightmares of it failing because I screwed up... Maybe I'll find someone local that could help me. Thanks nonetheless, Paul | ||
| Jlnance |
Paul - I've chickened out of mechanical stuff too. If you look around badweb, you can probably find someone close by to help you out. Some people really love doing this stuff. |
