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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Drivetrain » Primary Drive: Sprockets, Chain, Tensioner, Adjustment » Archive through June 26, 2007 » 1-2 upshift crunch « Previous Next »

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Scottsts
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2007 - 04:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

'05 City X, 2800 miles. I bought it used with 2200 miles.
1-2 upshift is rough and will grind if i'm not careful. popped out of 3rd once and from time to time, will have to double clutch to upshift (gets stuck in gear). Clutch seems just fine; no drag and proper engagement. Shift lever moves freely under all circumstances. Never have a problem finding neutral.

Reading through posts here, I should check primary chain slack and clutch cable slack. Anything else it could be?
Probably no big deal but I seek peace of mind!
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2007 - 07:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Change primary lubricant also, and lube or consider replacing the clutch cable. In terms of miles, that's early, but in terms of age, I replaced mine (05 9sx) and it made a big difference (and I had kept mine well lubed)

Also, adjust the clutch arm so that you get the best possible leverage, so the short arm on the splines on the shifter shaft is parallel to the arm to which the toe peg is mounted.

Follow the service manual by the book, except maybe give a little extra primary chain slack.
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Scottsts
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2007 - 08:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I will do a clutch adjustment but am confused about one thing. The manual tells you to screw the adjuster counterclockwise, then clockwise "1/4-1/2" turn. Hmmmmm. Which is it? Seems to me they should be more specific, no?

I changed the primary fluid 500 miles ago, btw.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2007 - 10:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It will make a minor difference in the amount of freeplay on the clutch lever, not a big deal. Less is better, but both will work, depending on what you need to get the nut on.

You end up adjusting the slack out in the next step anyway.
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Jackbequick
Posted on Saturday, May 26, 2007 - 09:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The important part of getting the clutch adjustment right is to make sure you back the clutch lever freeplay off so the cable is not pulling or under load when you adjust that screw. I just described that in this thread:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=3842&post=895594#POST895594

Jack
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Waddellpc
Posted on Friday, June 05, 2009 - 08:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

We have torn bike down and split the cases on 04 Buell Blast - now what - it wouldn't go into 3rd - how do i determine the cause - should I remove transmission ( do I have to press it out?) and do I need to check specs on shifter forks - could be the shifter drum?
anybody done this - should I just start replacing parts and/or replace forks and shifter drum to be sure?
split cases newbie
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