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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) » Archive through May 25, 2007 » Clutch Adjustment, please help « Previous Next »

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Shaiss
Posted on Wednesday, May 16, 2007 - 11:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have 05 XB12R.
Problem is the clutch is not disengaging properly. I have to rev past 3K to downshift otherwise its nearly impossible to downshift.

Primary Oil is ok, its at the bottom barely over the basket.

Primary chain is at the badweb tradition of 3/4.

New Barnett Clutch Plates
XB9 Primary chain and sprocket.
Muller Power Clutch

If I turn the clutch adjustment screw (PN 11765Y) counter clockwise 1 notch the clutch beings to slip. 1 to clockwise and you cant shift at all.

I thought this maybe has something to do with the shift pedal. So I angeled the engine lever more and put the pedal higher. (see picture) Now not only is the pedal about an inch to high, but it didn't help.

Should I ditch the Muller Clutch and Barnett plates and go back to stock?
What do you guys think? Please help as my bike totally sucks right now.

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Shaiss
Posted on Wednesday, May 16, 2007 - 11:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My process for setting my clutch is:
Remove the clutch cable (in my case the magura slave cylinder) to relieve resistance on the clutch.

Turn the clutch Adjustment screw counterclockwise till I fell a bit of resistance, turn 1/8th turn counterclockwise.
Then reassemble. This seems to work except the above issues.
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, May 16, 2007 - 12:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

With a stock clutch setup, the clutch adjusting screw is turned 1/4 turn CW from when it first begins to tighten from CCW rotation. You shouldn't need to detach the cable from the mechanism, just be sure that it has adequate slack as indicated by the proscribed free-play at the lever.

It may well be that your aftermarket modifications are part of the issue.
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, May 16, 2007 - 12:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

And, are you absolutely certain that your transmission lubrication level is not too high. Just a little too much lube will may cause the symptom you describe. Is shifting into neutral difficult when at a standstill, or does the bike have a tendency to want to move forward when sitting in first gear with the clutch pulled in? If so, that indicates that the lube level warrants rechecking.

The lube should just barely touch the clutch's diaphram spring. See the figure at the end of the transmission lubrication section of your owner's manual. Here's a link to that section in Buell's online owner's manual..

http://www.buell.com/om/99475-05Y_en/file-6.asp#hd topic000123
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Shaiss
Posted on Wednesday, May 16, 2007 - 12:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)


quote:


Is shifting into neutral difficult when at a standstill, or does the bike have a tendency to want to move forward when sitting in first gear with the clutch pulled in?



YES YES YES.

but I checked the lube (i'll check again tonight). When the bike is hot, after a 30 min freeway ride. The oil is at that level according to the diagram. I'm cheching this with the bike up on a rear stand.

btw. I'm using motul v-twin primary oil. could it be that thats a bad oil to use?
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Shaiss
Posted on Wednesday, May 16, 2007 - 12:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Blake, just notice the manual says:

quote:

Position the motorcycle STRAIGHT UP and LEVEL. This allows additional fluid to be drained from clutch compartment.



Does that mean, not on a rear stand, but someone holding the bike straight for you while you check?
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Sparky
Posted on Wednesday, May 16, 2007 - 03:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Have you measured the throw of the Magura slave cylinder at the part that connects to the Muller (sic) clutch lever?

If the distance measured is less than that of the stock cable setup, I'm thinking that would be part of your shifting difficulty. So, if the distance is less than stock, I would recommend taking out the Meuller ball and ramp mechanism and reinstalling the stock parts. The reason is, I believe, that the Mueller requires slightly more travel than stock in order to make the lever pull easier.

Also, if the rear wheel is off the ground when checking primary oil level at the clutch, that is not the same as straight up and level. The bike will be slightly tilted forward and the oil level will appear to be slightly lower than if the bike were on the ground straight up. Find something to hold the bike up, like a rope strung through the garage rafters, a wall or a friend.: )
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Shaiss
Posted on Wednesday, May 16, 2007 - 04:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)


quote:

If the distance measured is less than that of the stock cable setup, I'm thinking that would be part of your shifting difficulty. So, if the distance is less than stock, I would recommend taking out the Meuller ball and ramp mechanism and reinstalling the stock parts. The reason is, I believe, that the Mueller requires slightly more travel than stock in order to make the lever pull easier.


What your saying makes sense. Although I'm not sure how to measure it, but I think your right.

I'll check the oil levels tonight using the rope/friend trick.
If that doesnt work I'll have to dig around for my stock piece.
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, May 16, 2007 - 04:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"I'm cheching this with the bike up on a rear stand."

Oops. As Sparky already noted, that's your problem right there. I guarantee it. That would reduce the level in the rear of the primary, thus causing you to add too much lube in order for it to touch the clutch spring. Too much lube prevents the clutch plates from ever fully disengaging, on account of the viscous lube keeps filling the gaps between them.

Also, no need to have the thing warmed up to check tranny lube.
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Shaiss
Posted on Wednesday, May 16, 2007 - 04:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"Also, no need to have the thing warmed up to check tranny lube."
I dont meen to question you, but everywhere I reed says to get the tranny warm before checking.}

(Message edited by shaiss on May 16, 2007)
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Shaiss
Posted on Wednesday, May 16, 2007 - 04:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

And what about the engine lever on the shif assembly, does it matter what position its at, or is comfort priority #1
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Diablobrian
Posted on Wednesday, May 16, 2007 - 07:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ideally at rest the shift arm should be as close to parallel to the short end of the shift
pedal as you can possibly manage.

To do this:
1)Note the position of the shift pedal when it is where you are comfortable with it.

2)Remove the linkage (adjustable shaft) then

3)remove the pinch bolt on the shift arm

4) remove the shift arm and rotate it until it is in a position as close to
parallel with the previously noted position of the shift pedal short end.

5) re-install shift arm pinch bolt with arm in it's new position.

6) re-install shift linkage.

7) adjust length of linkage to return shift pedal to correct adjustment.
please note that one end of linkage shaft and lock nut have left handed (reversed) threads.

Of further note: you may have to compromise a bit on the position of the shift arm
due to max. and min. length of the linkage, position of splines and personal shift
pedal position preferences. Just get it as close as you can.

I tried to write this in terms that would not confuse the less than adept mechanics
out there.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, May 16, 2007 - 10:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Good tip.

Note to self and others: steel threads that have not moved in aluminum posts in 18k miles may not yeild easily. This is not surprising.

Note 2: The smaller steel head of that little ball joint will rip completely off before the aluminum threads will yield. This is suprising.

Hrrmph. Off to tractor supply tomorrow (the only place I can think of that *might* have those little ball joints, then probably the local stocking Buell dealer who is hopefully stocking them.

Those things seriously needed lubing as well.
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