| Author |
Message |
    
Akironic
| | Posted on Friday, May 04, 2007 - 09:18 am: | 
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Hey Guys, I just picked up a 100% original 96 S1 with under 1000 miles. Appearance is show room condition. This also being my first Buell.
When I test rode the bike it ran like a top!! Yesterday I took him for a ride and it was farting out of the airbox 
Couple of questions...
Do these bike require high test fuel?
Because its an 11 yr old bike where do you think I should start trying to correct this problem? Plugs and wires first? and then jump into the carb? Also the battery was dead when I first saw the bike. We charged it and its been holding the charge ever since.
I took the stock air box off, the filter was whistle clean. But I did notice when I rev the motor, a slight mist would come out of the carb. Normal?
Hopefully I gave some clues for you guys to help me. I just found the S1 manual here. It looks like I have a lot of reading to do.
Thanks in advance for any guidance. |
Mikej
| | Posted on Friday, May 04, 2007 - 10:58 am: |
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In the knowledge vault under the carb section at the very top of the page ... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/3591.html?1177468699 ... hmmm, well it used to be there ...
Ask the previous owner if the carb has been rejetted, most of us carb'd 'tuber owners up the size of the slow or low jet to something around a 45, the other jet is usually up around a 190 or 200 size or something like that, it's in the knowledge vault someplace. The mist is normal as is the occasional carb farting. Use the enrichener (or "choke" as some call it) until the bike is warmed up sufficiently.
Under 1000 miles is not even really broken in yet. Change the fluids, change the plugs, check to see if you can find an age on the battery and if it's older than 3 years old consider replacing it. Take the VIN number down to a local dealership and have them run a VIN check to ensure that any and all recalls have been incorporated into the bike.
Also check the tires, older tires have a tendancy to go bad from age and ozone and weatherization even if they look somewhat okay depending upon how and where it was stored.
Oh, and most important of all, post a picture of it.  |
Akironic
| | Posted on Friday, May 04, 2007 - 11:35 am: |
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Hey Mike, Thanks for the response. From what I'm told, this bike was sitting in a display window in a dealer for 7 years. The guy I bought it from rode it a handful of times. The bike has been untouched. Carb is stock.
The battery is original too. The bike starts everytime as well. Ya think I should still change the battery? This weekend I will change fluids and get new plugs. I read somewhere on here to toss the stock plugs and get some NGK's. Whadda ya think?
The tires are the original dunlops. That was the first thing I checked when I got home. There was only 9 lbs in each Lots of tread left though. This bike was sittin in the back of a million dollared homes heated garage. I musta wiped 3 lbs of dust off of it.
The vin I will get looked into as well. I did see the swingarm was replaced but dont know about the rest of it.
I forgot to mention before and this might give another idea of whats going on. I rode the bike about 30 miles (mostly city) and when I shut the bike down it coughed and coughed some more for a few seconds before it stopped running. But when I tried to start it immediately after, it fired right back up.
Thanks again Mike. Oh and here's a pic of him
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Mikej
| | Posted on Friday, May 04, 2007 - 11:52 am: |
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Nice find!
Run the battery and see how it goes.
The rear inner fender is missing, maybe the guy has it stashed at home someplace. It's worth finding as more people are starting to look at the S1 as a collectable in stock form. The tires could have hardened with age, just use your best judgement until you see how they run in as they get warmed up.
For the spark plugs just run the newest correct heat range and choose the brand you prefer.
When you're changing the fluids and have the clutch inspection cover off take a peak with a small mirror at the primary tensioner, it might be worth the hassle to swap it out for the newer style one with the thicker base plate under the teflon shoe. And pick up a set of rocker cover gaskets to have handy for when your's start to leak, the older paper gaskets these came stock with almost always start leaking somewhere well before 10,000 miles.
I'll let the S1 experts step in here now and fill in or correct what I've posted.
Very nice find. |
Akironic
| | Posted on Friday, May 04, 2007 - 12:45 pm: |
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hehe thanks Mike. I thought this guy was full of it until I saw it sittin in the back of that garage. 
I've read about that chain tensioner somewhere too. Probably here. I'll add that to the list. I've got a good list goin here.
I have the stock rear fender and that lower belt cover. That was the first thing I took off. Man, thats an ugly fender.
Hopefully others will give me there .02 as well.
Thanks again Mike for the responses. I appreciate it. |
Road_thing
| | Posted on Friday, May 04, 2007 - 01:21 pm: |
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Mna, that's nice!
I'm in agreement with MikeJ's advice; I've had two S1's and what he said pretty much mirrors my own experience.
Ride it and enjoy it!
rt |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Friday, May 04, 2007 - 03:27 pm: |
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Wow! That has to be one of the best pieces of functional art I have ever seen... |
Court
| | Posted on Friday, May 04, 2007 - 05:46 pm: |
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That's the color, High Voltage Yellow, that my first one was when I bought it.
Great color!
It was a pain in the ass for Buell but taught a good lesson for when Molten Orange came along . . .
Excellent looking S-1.
Court |
Jackbequick
| | Posted on Friday, May 04, 2007 - 11:39 pm: |
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Was the "farting" the back firing out of the carb? That is due to a combo of cold engine and the too lean slow speed jet. And maybe too much throttle too soon and too quick.
The CV-40 carbs are wonderful for their simplicity and function. But the Buell tubers just don't like sudden throttle openings until they are well warmed up.
Anyone that loves their Buell gives it a good solid two minutes or so at 1,500-2,000 RPM to get all the pieces of aluminum and steel warmed up and well sealed. Even with that you might need to use the enrichener (choke) some for the first few minutes of riding.
Some of the early Buells called for and used a plug that was too hot, make sure you get the cooler plugs that were specified in a service bulletin. You can find the info on those in the KV.
Nice ride, you're a lucky dude!
Jack |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Saturday, May 05, 2007 - 12:04 am: |
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With a bike that old, you really need to check your intake seals.
Even though it's not been used much they are most likely very hard.
This will also cause a lean "fart".
Check the jetting. The pilot jet is probably a 35 or 40, it should be a 45 with the screw out about 2.5 turns.
This helps the "Kehin Cough" big time. First thing that should be done to any stock tuber.
Nice bike!!
Brad |
Naustin
| | Posted on Saturday, May 05, 2007 - 09:43 am: |
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Wow! What an awesome find! |
Akironic
| | Posted on Saturday, May 05, 2007 - 10:19 am: |
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Thanks Court. At first I thought I would hate it until I saw it up close. Looks like a pearl paint. Kinda flip flops yellow into green. |
Akironic
| | Posted on Saturday, May 05, 2007 - 10:25 am: |
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Thanks Jack. Yesterday I put new plugs in it (NGK's) and some 93 octane fuel and no difference. It didn't diesel on me though. The bike was plenty warm before I left. I'll be cruisin down a city street in 2nd, no throttle twisting and it'll start to fart out of the carb. All of a sudden no power, pop, pop outta the carb and then it comes back. I'm going to check the intake seals today, if that doesn't help I guess its on to the carb next. Thanks for the response. |
Akironic
| | Posted on Saturday, May 05, 2007 - 10:26 am: |
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Thanks Naustin. I'm so stoked I found it! |
Akironic
| | Posted on Saturday, May 05, 2007 - 10:28 am: |
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Thanks Brad. I'm gonna check the intake seals this afternoon. Where can I get the jets for the carb? Thanks for the info and I appreciate you replying. |
Rocketman
| | Posted on Saturday, May 05, 2007 - 11:49 am: |
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I searched long and hard to find an XR1000 in the mid 1990's. In the UK not, an easy task then. One I came across, and very nearly bought, had been heavily modified by Warrs, who it has to be said were very very good at doing hot stuff to XR's - Peter Warr once upon a time racing them.
I remember Warrs telling me they had offered this particular XR owner a good deal against a new Buell. I thought to myself, why? I mean, a Buell kinda looked like an American road racer or a faired in touring bike. I couldn't see the relationship between an XR1000 and a Buell. So the XR owner had declined Warrs offer, and was looking for cash, and lots of it. Well I was needing time to raise more than I had wanted to buy an XR. Any XR as it turned out. So there I was in the newsagents just a few days before Christmas 1995, when a magazine on the shelf caught my eye. I swear to you my jaw was on the floor in astonishment and the words 'Buell builds a streetfighter' kept ringing around my brain. From that moment, all thoughts of owning an XR1000 left me in an instant. I swear that's not an exaggeration on my part either. Suffice to say, first week in January I was test riding a spark red S1 through north London and up the A1 to Hatfield.
Here's that very magazine that has met me many great friends and some very good times all over the world.
If I had it all to do again, I think I'd keep a yellow S1 just like it was the day it came out of the crate.
Rocket |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Saturday, May 05, 2007 - 12:54 pm: |
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Erik,
Any Dealer should have them. The carbed Sportsters use the same carb. About $5 and your in business.
Get a 45 and all will be well.
The Knowledge Vault has the whole procedure to install and unhide the adjusting screw.
I'm betting you have a combination of both problems.
The KV also has procedures to check the intake seals.
Basically you shoot water or strting fluis around the seal areas while the motor is running and listen for a rise or fall in RPM.
Some use water, some use starting fluid, just about anything flameable will work.
I use starting fluis with a straw in the nozzle to aim it exactly where I want it.
Damn nice S1, killer find!!!
Brad |
Akironic
| | Posted on Saturday, May 05, 2007 - 01:32 pm: |
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I checked the intake seals by shooting carb cleaner with the straw at them while the bike was running. I heard no difference in rpms. I'm going to go run to HD for a 45 slow jet. Hopefully this will solve everything.
One other quick question. The crankcase breather fitting at the head seems to be loose and there is a slight amount of soot around it on the head itself. Should I tighten that up? I've been reading the manual and it doesn't say anything about removal or installation.
Thanks again Brad. To everyone else thanks for letting me pick your brains! I'm learning!
I'll let ya's know how I make out! |
Jackbequick
| | Posted on Saturday, May 05, 2007 - 03:59 pm: |
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If you've got any old school or chopper shops around, they'll have that jet. I think I paid $3.00 for mine. Dealers get a little more wrapped around the axles on part numbers and stuff.
The KV has the info and here is a site with good cutaways and a detailed description of doing the work:
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm# slide_detail
I'd just do the jet change, I'd hold off on drilling out the hole in the slide for now.
You might want to consider doing the seals while you have the carb off. Most people recommend replacing those seals every 2-3 years.
The intake manifold clamping flanges are a PITA of sorts to remove. You need to shorten a 3/16"(?) Allen wrench to get at one of the screws. Another option is to cut a short piece off of an Allen wrench so you can put that in the screw and then turn it with a small 3/16" box end (like an ignition wrench).
I'd give the carb a general cleaning while it is off, make sure the bowl is clean, the jets, etc. Drill the cap over the idle mixture adjusting screw with a 1/16" or so drill then put a screw in it and pull the cap right out. Set that screw at 2-1/2 turns open from a gentle stop and you can adjust from there. That screw is hard to get at with the carb mounted on the bike and my M2 was running so good that I never did go back and adjust it again later.
You can buy a replacement screw that is longer and that has a knurled knob on it, that is a good idea if you want to be able to play with the idle mixture easily. But don't bee surprised it 2-1/2 turns is fine.
I later put an after market aircleaner on my M2 to replace the bread box and the carburation was still right on the money.
You bike is such a classic that if I owned it I'd leave the stock air box on it. I would take the trouble to get the breathers rerouted outside the air box though.
Jack |
Akironic
| | Posted on Saturday, May 05, 2007 - 07:34 pm: |
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Hey Jack. Thanks for the link! I went to my local HD dealer for that jet and they didn't have it I'll have to wait till Monday now. Nothing is open on Sundays around here.
The breadbox KILLS the look of the bike to me along with the rear fender. I'll hang onto the box but would like to get an aftermarket intake for it. Any suggestions?
Why would you reroute the breather hoses outside of the airbox? For oil not to blow on the filter?
Thanks again. Back to reading! |
Jackbequick
| | Posted on Saturday, May 05, 2007 - 08:13 pm: |
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I hear you on the looks of the breadbox, it is hideous.
And exactly right on the reroute. The oil ruins filters and collects and drips on the engine/pipes when it is setting. If water gets in and mixes with the oil it drips the deadly "spooge".
There is a lot of chatter in the KV on breather rerouting and catch cans. I used a small gas filter as a catch can:
http://users.adelphia.net/~jackerbes/Buell/breathe r.html
That filter never accumlated more than a teaspoon or less of oil in a season of use. I'm using a similar setup on my Dyna FXD to cure the inlet tract oiling problem.
I did not want anything as intentionally visible as "genuine" catch can.
On my M2 I eventually went to a billet aluminum spam can style air cleaner. It was similar to the classic Sportster filters but smaller/thinner one and used a K&N element. It flowed fine, was not too noisy, not an issue with my knee (31" inseam), and I liked the looks of it too. That one is not on the market any more.
The Forcewinders are a popular choice but were a little to "boy racer" looking for my taste. Inappropriate for someone my age. :> Of course, as it turns out, so was the M2...
Jack |
Akironic
| | Posted on Sunday, May 06, 2007 - 09:41 am: |
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Awesome! I'm gonna try that. I did notice a little oil on the inside of the airbox.
I agree on the forcewinder. I had one, on one of my hondas and any crosswinds would make the bike studder.
Dont feel bad, I'm no young buck either!
Again, Thanks for the info. I will pull the carb this afternoon. First thing in the morning I'll pick that jet up and hopefully I'll be back in business |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Sunday, May 06, 2007 - 10:44 pm: |
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The ham can is great!
There's a reason they came stock on the S2.... Then again, I might be biased...
Sounds like you have things well in hand...
I agree wiht Jack, skip the part about drilling out the slide hole.
I've done it both ways in the past and noticed no difference.
The jet and mixture screw on the other hand are huge.
Makes a very noticible difference.
Good luck!
Brad |
Tawar
| | Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 09:35 am: |
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Old new guy here,
Have recently purchased a 98 S1 (Molten Orange) which I would like to find more detail on. I believe this was a limited edition model but don't know how limited and I am curious about the Buell history of it. Other related item is a starting issue which I am sure I have narrowed down to a warn solenoid switch. Here, in Australia, I phoned our local HD Buell dealership and was quoted $90 for a 98 sportster solenoid kit. When I asked for the same kit for a 98 Buell the price was a $190 then I asked if it was possible to cross reference the part numbers and was told HD and Buell part numbers are completely different. So, how similar are certain sportster parts to Buell parts??? Any ideas on the solenoid???
Thanks
Warren |
Bad_karma
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2007 - 12:36 am: |
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Erik
I would consider changing those tyres. When you change that battery you need to go to HD for a kit. Nice bike, it's the same as my 96 S1.
Joe |
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