| Author | Message | ||
     Drfudd |
This one is a good one and most of this isn't in the manual. 1. First the engine must be HOT or warm as the manual says. you can ride for ten minutes and it not look any different from when its cold, you really have to take it for a good 30 minute ride in order to warm up the tranny, use it as an excuse to hit 100mph on the freeway going one exit to another. 2. Level the bike upright, if not it'll get you a false reading, its very sensitive to the upright position of the motorcycle, if you do this while its just on the kickstand it'll show that you have more than enough fluid in your primary. 3.With the bike level undo the 3 bolts shown in the picture.  Also in this picture take note of the drain plug directly underneath the cover on the bottom side of the tranny. 4. remove the plate and this is what you'll see.  that bottom opening is where you inspect to make sure that the fluid level is covering the gears, if you see gear teeth at the bottom of it, add some fluid. You add fluid via the same place your looking at. 5.This picture is blurry but you get the idea.  Now if you ever want to change the fluid drain it via the drain plug on the bottom. The Drain plug is magnetic so you have to get a rag and clean off ALL metal shavings. The manual says you'll drain more if the bike is upright and level, not on the kickstand. Then you just replace the plug and add fluid through this same primary clutch cover until the fluid is at the same level. Its easier than doing your oil filter change. 6. Since we are down here and have our tools out this will be a good time to check the chain tensioner. You notice the other cover thats on the primary, that will let you inspect the chain. Also replace the primary clutch cover you just removed and USE loctite on the bolts, this is important or it will vibrate loose.  7. Notice the position of the chain compared to the primary cover. (You have to get down low to see the chain, also take note that it is obviously covered in fluid)  8. get out your little screw driver and see how far it moves.  1/4 inch as shown is about right, if it needs tighting or loosening there is a stud and nut on the bottom of the primary below this cover, turn that and it'll adjust the chain tension. That nut is shown in the picture in step 6. And thats all, if I made any mistakes just let me know. Thanks | ||
| Blake |
I'd not ever recommend putting loctite on the clutch cover screws. The torx heads are not too difficult to strip. I use never-seize on mine. They've never loosened on their own. The manual makes no mention of applying loctite to the clutch cover screws. Your screwdriver is shown on top of the chain. To check primary chain tension, it needs to be underneath the chain so you can lift the chain and measure the free play. Strongly suggest checking the chain tension when the engine/tranny have cooled down to room temperature to ensure consistency and accuracy. You need to check the chain at multiple locations as it moves around the sprockets. The tightest location should exhibit no less than 1/2" of free play when applying pressure from underneath the chain. A bit looser on the chain is better than too tight, so I suggest using a 5/8" minimum free play (again, measured by lifting the chain from its slack state) at the tightest location. | ||
| Blake |
Also, rather than saying that the tranny lube level should be "covering the gears" I'd say that the tranny lube needs to just be touching the bottom toothy edge of the diaphragm spring. | ||
| Sloppy |
WHERE'S YOUR TORQUE WRENCH??? This is especially important when you work on aluminum threads. Too many people have butchered their ride simply because they were too lazy to reach into the bottom drawer of their tool box... I don't have an XB and I wasn't sure if the covers are plastic or not, but, if it is, you're not supposed to use Loctite on plastic. Loctite makes plastic brittle and crack. Also, where's the can of beer to make sure you never rush a job... | ||
| Reepicheep |
For the plastics and those covers, I have ended up using a customer torque wrench... I have a T-27 screw driver with a normal sized handle, usually covered with oil, and I just turn it until my hand slips. It ends up at the low end of the torque spec, but I have not yet lost a screw. I doubt I could get enough torque to strip it if I wanted, it's a slippery screwdriver  | ||
| Drfudd |
I use Loctite 290 medium pressure so I can get it off again, and while the manual makes no mention of using Loctite(or some kind of thread sealant) I would certainly use it, esp on any vibrating motorcycle like a V-twin. As far as a torque wrench, I have some, but none that will allow me to use a torx head on it. I just guestimate. I've killed too many aluminum threads so I always learned to take it easy and use loctite instead of added torque. Also, the primary covers are not plastic, they seem cast something. | ||
| Sloppy |
All you need is a torx socket to fit onto a torque wrench... I've never had any bolt come loose when properly torqued to specification. The only place I'd recommend the use of Loctite is where specified (like on the crank nut). A torque wrench is a lot more useful than Loctite! If you go through the trouble and expense of a digital camera for a procedure, then I figure you should have a torque wrench and spec's so people do the job correctly. | ||
| Cold_iron |
how are you guys leveling your bike? front and rear stands? or just rear stand | ||
| Bigdog_tim |
I bought the Pit Bull stands - front and rear. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Levelling - On a M2, a piece of 2 x 4 (1-5/8" height) under the side stand would bring the bike close to vertical. Another 1/2 would put it at the point where it could fall easily with a slight push. So my oil check procedure for both the primary and oil bag was to put a block under the stand. And remove it when I was done. :>) I also had a CenterStand work stand and when I used that for more serious work, I got very similar readings. A good thing to do for a sanity check is to get some benchmarks when you are certain how much oil is in it. For that take readings just after draining and refilling the primary and right after doing an oil change. In both cases, make sure the bike is well warmed up, sump well drained, and leveled with a block or stand as above. That will give you two good consistent benchmarks for maing post ride checks. And that is the best time to do it. Jack | ||
| Alchemy |
Primary chain adjustment question. Are there any easy ways to rotate the engine as required to check the chain tension? I am in a basement using the side stand to hold the bike. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Put the bike in gear (3rd or 4th is a good choice), pull the plugs, and nudge the bike forward a little bit at a time. Pulling the plugs is optional, it makes it easier to push and to control the movement as you come up on compression. Pulling the plug wires and tapping the starter is another choice but it will probably move the chain too far and too fast to keep track of where you have and have not been. Once you find the tight spot, wipe a side link and put an "X" on it with a permanent ink marker. It will be easier to find next time. Jack | ||
| Alchemy |
Pulling the plugs or plug wires is a bit of work and I have not done it yet. I hear that some special tools make is easier but I don't have them yet<grin>. I will have to check if pulling the ignition fuse kills the starter as well. Probably does. It would seem that the easiest method would be to pull the plugs and put the bike on a rear stand and 4 or 5 gear and manually rotate the tire. Even with the link marked it is a bit of work to get the "X" at the right point to check the tension. Maybe this is the excuse I need to get a stand. | ||
| Jackbequick |
That's right, I had forgotten about the plugs being hard to get at on the XB's. Does the XB have a hollow rear axle? I was able to put a piece of 1/2" rebar through the axle on my M2 and then use two jack stands to get the rear wheel off the ground. That worked good but it might have been a tuber only thing too. It is a pain to find the mark if you're nudging the bike along, with all the getting up and pushing, getting down and looking, etc. I did that once and then bought a CenterStand work stand. I also added some marks on each side of the "X" so it was more like |||x||| to make it easier to find. I used carb cleaner to degrease the plates and the marks stayed there through two riding seasons. Jack |
