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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Drivetrain » Clutch: Cable, Adjustment, Basket, Hub, Spring, Plates... » Archive through June 07, 2008 » Hydraulic Clutch and Mueller Clutch Adjustment how to « Previous Next »

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Shaiss
Posted on Friday, April 13, 2007 - 11:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have the American Sport Bike Hydraulic Clutch and Mueller Clutch. I have it adjusted, but its not perfect.

Anyone have experience with the two and can give some advice on the proper adjustment?
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Al_lighton
Posted on Friday, April 13, 2007 - 12:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The combination of the two requires critical adjustment, as both reduce the overall clutch throw a little. Based on the difficulties that some folks have had getting a good clutch adjustment, I'm generally recommending one or the other these days, but not both.

The key to getting it right is to disconnect the slave cylinder, adjust the clutch, then back the screw all the way off again to allow you to reconnect the slave, but COUNT THE NUMBER OF TURNS that you back it off in order to reconnect the slave, then turn it that many turns back to the adjusted position. That way you know you are setting just the clutch correctly independent of the actuating mechanism, which is what you do with a cabled clutch when you put total slack in it prior to adjusting the clutch pack.

This is necessary because it is hard to tell when the clutch is bottoming lightly when the slave cylinder is connected.

If you can't get it just right after doing this, I recommend removing the Muller, selling it (won't be hard, they're quite popular and a used one is as good as a new one, there's no real wear on them), and using the money towards an 06 clutch spring.

As badly as your clutch was adjusted when your bike was here, and as ugly as that primary fluid was as a result of the incorrect adjustment, I'm pretty sure that one of your problems is that your clutch plates took a beating during the time it was operated after your mechanic adjusted it. Your primary fluid had virtually no miles on it and was about the worst I've seen, blacker than mine usually is after a full service interval. I suspect your clutch pack doesn't have a lot of life left in it, just a guess.

Al
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Shaiss
Posted on Friday, April 13, 2007 - 12:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Al again for the tip.
I'm gonna play around with it a bit soon.

I'm learning little by little to do this work myself. I'll keep playing until I learn how to actually change the plates my self. Unless anyones in SoCal and willing to take some time to help a fellow Bueller as I dont trust any of the local shops or harley dealers.
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