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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Lubrication - Engine Oil, Transmission Oil, Bearing Grease... » Archive through May 28, 2003 « Previous Next »

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Henrik
Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2003 - 11:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Any suggestions for swapping the braided steel lines for regular rubber oil hose. I'd be able to run the hoses closer to the frame tubes.

spurging cooler

Henrik
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Bads1
Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2003 - 11:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Henrik your local HD dealer should have little hose guide's that clamp to the frame to guide those oil lines where you would like them to be without them scratching your frame up from vibration,Or you could get high pressure rubber lines with those same fittings on both ends.
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Court
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2003 - 04:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You may also get braided steel with a clear PVC coating.
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99x1
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2003 - 06:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

" swapping the braided steel lines for regular rubber oil hose."
You could slide rubber over the braid where it contacts the frame - like shrink tubes meant for earth buried electrical connections, (ie 3M ColdShrink, prestretched rubber on a removable spiral tube), I used one on my positive battery cable.
ColdShrink
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2003 - 06:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BUELLERs:
You'll need to learn the "KISS PROGRAM"(ie: keep it simple stupid)...
Buy a SPORSTER oil cooler... It has all the parts... It mounts in the right place...
And it says Harley-Davidson on it...
What more could you'll ask for...
In buelling
LaFayette
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Bads1
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2003 - 08:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If everything on are BUELLS said HD or Buell then they wouldn't be different in every sense and this thread would be boring.
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Henrik
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2003 - 10:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

LaFayette - you calling me stupid? :|

I prefer to spend the time and come up with a solution that fits as if it was made for my bike, works well and if possible looks like is was meant to be there.

IMNSHO the HD cooler fits none of those requirements. Besides "Harley Davidson" imprinted on it is reason enough for me not to buy it for the Buell.

Henrik
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Rick_a
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2003 - 01:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I go by my own KICS philosophy...Keep It Cheap & Simple...

The Lockhart cooler does the job...and well.
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2003 - 01:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Henrick:
No offence meant, just my way of saying WORK
is a FOUR LETTER WORD...
Should have told you Rick_a's philosophy!!!

Rick_a:
RIGHT ON...

In buelling
LaFayette
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2003 - 02:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bads1:
You are RIGHT!!!

"i" put Harley-Davidson parts to stur up HDI DEALERS...
"i" either cover up the Harley-Davidson name with
a BUELL decal or make it Harley-Davidson/BUELL...
BUELL is all upper case and BUELL BLUE...

In buelling
LaFayette
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Henrik
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2003 - 11:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

LaFayette; no worries - just messing with you. I thought the emoticon would have indicated that - my fault.

I'm all for simple, but sometimes even a simple part need a bit of modification to truly fit the purpose - farkeling :)

Henrik
(not as grouchy as Court would have you think)
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Stubby
Posted on Thursday, May 22, 2003 - 08:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

guys. how to change the filter on tube framed buells without puking oil all over the regulator etc.?

Thanks.
\s\
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Mikej
Posted on Thursday, May 22, 2003 - 08:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stubby,

Bread sack held snuggly over the filter, then remove the filter quickly. Remove the bread first, the oil ruins the taste of a sandwich. ;)

Or you might try some aluminum foil drapped over the drippage areas like some do when draining their primary by covering the muffler with the foil.
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Ara
Posted on Thursday, May 22, 2003 - 08:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stubby: I do two things. First I use one of those plastic grocery store bags like a bib, cuting the loop handles and then tying them to the bike so that the body of the bag fits under the filter housing and over the voltage regulator. (You're using this like a bib, not to actually catch the oil in the bag.) Second, I've cut away the bottom and part of the side of a plastic juice bottle. With the screw top off it'll direct the oil into your catch pan as you unscrew the filter. Anything you miss with the bottle drips onto the bib. Nothing gets on your bike. BTW, you can cut down a half-gallon plastic milk jug in a similar fashion and use it to direct the gear lube in the primary away from your exhaust can into your drain pan. It's cheap and it works.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Thursday, May 22, 2003 - 08:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anybody tried punching a hole in the bottom of the filter and draining it that way before pulling it? One nail hole in bottom for oil to drip out, one in the top for air to come in, let sit for 10 minutes.
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Buellistic
Posted on Thursday, May 22, 2003 - 08:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stubby:
Make yourself a DEFLECTOR out of a piece of cardboar like comes with copy paper...

OR as per Bill says punch/drill hole in filter and let drain...

Reepicheep:RIGHT ON...

In buelling
LaFayette
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Bluzm2
Posted on Thursday, May 22, 2003 - 10:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I use the tinfoil method. I double up a piece of heavy duty foil and slip it under the filter Then form it into a trough to drain the oil into a pan.
A couple of drops always sneak out but one swipe with a rag and all is well.

Brad
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Littledog1
Posted on Thursday, May 22, 2003 - 01:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I take an empty 2 liter plastic soda bottle, slice it horizontally. I slip the bottom of the sliced bottle under the filter and use it as a trough to let the oil drain into my catch pan. It is even reusable.
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, May 22, 2003 - 03:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

cheap, easy, clean...
Cheap, Easy, Clean


... and the oil keeps the turkey from sticking. LOL
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, May 22, 2003 - 03:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Safety wiring of oil filter... too easy
Safety Wiring of Oil Filter... too easy :)
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Buellistic
Posted on Thursday, May 22, 2003 - 04:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake:
WOW!!!
Is the the new foot mural filter just out???
In buelling
LaFayette
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Hoser
Posted on Friday, May 23, 2003 - 01:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wish I had a black oil filter , all my dealer has is "poser" chrome ones.
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Blake
Posted on Friday, May 23, 2003 - 02:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

LaFayette,
You bet. Can you tell what model of boot I'm wearing? LOL.

Jeff,
No black filters? How embarrassing!
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Ara
Posted on Friday, May 23, 2003 - 08:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hoser, try the Mobil 1 filter equivalent to a FL-1A or an FL300. It's an exceptional filter and at least it's grey in color.
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Buellistic
Posted on Friday, May 23, 2003 - 09:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"BLACK PAINT"

In buelling
LaFayette
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, May 23, 2003 - 12:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Autozone has a FL-1A knockoff that appears to be very high quality, runs about $4, and is almost all black. Had good luck with them so far.
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Flapjack
Posted on Monday, May 26, 2003 - 02:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

In reply to Blakes question of May 19.
I wonder if the header wrap would help cut down on the heat in the cylinder head.
By keeping heat in the pipe you you maintain velocity,however you are still passing the same temp gas and thru the exhaust port and thus will soak the head.
A better way to reduce cylinder head temp would be to coat the piston dome, combustion chamber, and valve faces with a ceramic based thermal barrier coating. Tests performed by Briggs&Stratton to evaluate the effects of various oil viscosities and amounts in their engines were very intersting. The best results they had were average HP 5.86, head temp 454f, and oil temp 206f. The piston dome and combustion chamber were the coated with CBC2 a ceramic based thermal barrier and the test rerun. The results wrer average HP 6.54, head temp 391f, and oil temp 168f. That is a 10.39% increase in HP with a 13.87% reduction in cylinder head temp and a 18.44% drop in oil temp. The exhaust port can also be coated with a thermal barrier to lessen the amount of heat transferred to the head and a thermal dispersant coating applied to the rocker box ares, exterior of the head and cylinder to increase heat transfer.
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, May 26, 2003 - 03:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Flapjack:
Will do this when "i" take "TOP-END" off$$$
BUT until then "i" will settle for HEADER WRAP improvement...
In buelling
LaFayette
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Ar15ls1
Posted on Wednesday, May 28, 2003 - 07:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got to attend a mobil oil seminar today and learned a little bit from the engineers giving it!
I tried to ask some questions that I commonly see on this site.
If anyone has some oil related questions for our buells ,I would be happy to answer them. (If I can that is).
One thing that I did find out was that you can use Mobils automotive 15w50 in our engines, but the Vtwin 15w50 is better because It has more antiwear agents than the automotive version. This is because there are not as many emissions restrictions on a motorcycle oil as there is on a car oil.
Also if you buy a synthetic media filter such as mobils or the expensive fram synthetic media filter, you should not have to change your oil(if you are using a name brand synthetic)for at least 10,000 miles. According to this engineer, he says todays synthetics are far better than the filtration systems working with them. THis only goes for the automotive field. Thats why you can buy an oil filter for 2 or 3 dollars and in the industrial field a good filter the same size can cost over a $1000. This is the #1 reason automotive manufactures tell you to change your oil at 3-5000 miles.
I asked him (knowing his answer already because he works for Mobil) what synthetic is better: Mobil 1 or Royal Purple? He said that he would use either one , but Mobil has a lot more money to spend on research and development than the smaller oil companies.Thats why he prefers mobil. He knows whats going in their oil is right for the application. Also , most synthetic oils use mobils basestocks anyway. They just put their own special additives in.
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, May 28, 2003 - 08:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ar15ls1:
RIGHT ON!!!
HDI went to a better filtering filter...
HDI finally went to offering the good oil,SCREAMN'EAGLE SYC3...
Try filtering your oil thru a paper bag and see how clean it becomes!!!
A good filter keeps the sand(fine metal) out to
keep the wear factor way down...
"THAT IS WHY BUELLS NEED A FILTER ON THE RETURN LINE TO THE OIL TANK"
In buelling
LaFayette
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