| Author | Message | ||
     Oldog |
Every year I take time to examine in detail and make a repair list as usual brakes came up on the list, My x1 seems to have a penchant for front brake problems and at 5 years old I felt it was time for some scrutiny / restorative actions. Last year I over hauled the front caliper and cleaned the front system with a fluid change, this year its overhaul time the front stopper drug bad enough about 3 weeks ago to get me off of the road the brake pad back plate was too hot to touch! this Year front and rear master cyls & calipers all lines // pads to be replaced I will post other items in other sections of the kv I tried to be methodical this year to save time and to be more thurough.  all body work was removed first, with the tank and seat.  I decided to start at the back end, and pulled the rear wheel, axle in hand I started seeing things that needed checking  there are water related damage marks and a bright burnish on the race, the outer bearing was rough and its inner race was "wobbly"  the sprocket is beginning to have some issues the belt looks good no flaws on any of the teeth. I dont know how long the pully will last (Message edited by oldog on December 17, 2006) | ||
| Oldog |
The rear brake gets a MC over haul, caliper overhaul, new hardline, new light switch.  after pulling the battery the hard line is secured by tangs on the oil tank and a "padded clamp" bolted under the bottom rear tie bar, yeah that one .....  the rust may signal another problem I recently replaced the battery and I need to see what the steady state voltage is there is evidence of corosion on the aluminum as well. penetrating oil was applied and this allowed to soak. I moved to removing the Rear MC and the caliper With the caliper on the bench the exam, begins.  the fluid was changed last year, as Lafayette aka Buellistic has said change the brake fluid annualy, hes' on to some thing this is a year old and theres issues. water has gotten to the "floating" mount hardware finding crosion on a bleeder supprised me.   | ||
| Oldog |
All metal parts are cleaned with break cleaner and then blown dry with compressed air.  IMO All of these parts should be available as part of a "total rebuild" kit. I cleaned up the barrel with a file and a bolt on the drill,  the hanger pin and mounting bracket take a beating in some areas   my pointer covers some of the wear on this its slight but visible, | ||
| Oldog |
I did the front Master today, there was some evidence of water ingress the fluid was a little cloudy sadly no pics, the rubber boot at the tip of the piston had deterioated(sp) and water had gotten in to the bore and rusted the snap ring the kits other than the profile of the piston are the same front and rear, Important! The FSM says clearly that no mineral / petrolium type solvents should be used on the rubber parts, the grease ( tiny amount ) or cleaner I used may have damaged the boot on the tip of the OS end of the MC piston I am using Crc Brake cleaner on metal and dot4 brake fluid to clean and lube the rubber parts In the above photos you can see the wear the original rear caliper piston took VS new | ||
| Henrik |
Good write-up and great pictures. Thanks Jim. Yeah, staying on top of things is important and good winter therapy  Henrik |
