| Author | Message | ||
     Mikej |
Post-season/pre-season tool/garage upgrade shopping, I’m currently looking at welders for purchase sometime in 2007 (budgetary constraints for the remainder of 2006). Looks like for a MIG wire feed welder to fit my needs/wants I’m looking at the following two or three units: Lincoln Power MIG 140C http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Catalog/equipment datasheet.asp?p=42420 Miller Millermatic 135 http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/millermati c_135/ Miller Millermatic 175 http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/millermati c_175/ Also looking to get one of those electronic automatic tinting welding helmets. Eventually I’d like to get a plasma cutter and a TIG welder. Currently all I have for welding is an oxy/acet gas setup. Usage will be for steel, hopefully stainless steel, aluminum, thin stock metals like gas tanks and soda cans, and up to bike or trailer frames. The heavier stuff will primarily be just for repairs and welding on tabs and whatnot. I’ve got 100amps run out to the garage separate from the house wiring for the most part (taps out of the main 200amp circuit breaker panel in the basement) and could get 220v out there if need be but I’d prefer to stick with just 110v/120v for the time being. I’ve done a little stick/arc welding in the past (decades ago), have taken a welding class, don’t do too bad with the gas welding once I get back into it, and really want to try my hand at thin steel metals and some aluminum welding. I might even consider getting certified if the day job goes away, but that’s a different topic for a different day. So, whatchaallgot for welding setups, what would you recommend keeping a modest budget in mind, and knowing that eventually I’d like to try my hand at TIG welding once I get the MIG stuff figured out well enough. Eventually I’ll add a gas tank to the welder, but for now just figure on bare wire and flux core stuff to get things started. I’ll worry about welding soda/beer cans sometime later on. Thanks for any input or directions, I’ll check back in when I can. MikeJ. (ps, if anybody has a decent wire feed welder collecting dust that they want to unload cheap or swap off for something then let me know.) Also, I hereby declare this thread, or sub-thread, or sub-sub-thread as the case may be, this thread is open to any and all discussion of how to do stuff with welding equipment, how to use said equipment, how not to use said equipment, and anything else that will help me or others to become more proficient welders, or at least less proficient at messing stuff up with welding equipment. The dreary season is about upon us, this will give me something to do in the garage, and at the same time help to heat the unheated garage in the process, hopefully not burning it down in the same process.  So please offer suggestions as to what to consider getting, and how to use it, and what to do with it, or what you've done with it yourownself. Thanks, and thank you. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I finally took the time to set up and use my cutting torch with my Oxy/Act rig. Boy what fun is that! For some of that really delicate stuff you are thinking of, I would consider brazing / silver solder as well. For delicate work, I expect the joint would be stronger then the material. I got to play with a fairly decent Mig (with bottle) setup my neighbor borrowed. It made very strong joints unbelievably fast, but I get the feeling if I was not welding for speed and really took the time to practice up on my gas welding, I could make far stronger and far better looking joints. Of course, that would be where TIG comes in, which is probably the best of both worlds. Still can't braze with it though. So I guess, I'm thinking, that I would stay with Gas until I can afford TIG, and just skip the MIG step, unless I had some sort of high volume "good enough" quality job to do. Of course, that is coming from a guy that owns neither MIG or TIG. I guess a $200 MIG unit would be a good way to get into the game as well. Now you have me jonsing to go out and melt some metal. I'll have to go and break something to have a good excuse.  | ||
| Fullpower |
For steel, I have a lot of fun running .035 flux core though a Lincoln SP 170.no gas bottle required, and the machine is pretty light and easy to move a round. I strongly recommend that you obtain a 240 volt supply machine, of whatever brand you choose ( MILLER OR LINCOLN) The little 110 volt "hobbyist" rigs just dont have enough horsepower, they will patch a boat trailer, but are wholly inadequate for use on Aluminum or stainless steel. For Aluminum, I use the LINCOLN square wave TIG 175, which is inexpensive and real easy to use, a very fun machine to work with. It will also run stick electrodes, up to 175 amps.. you will need an argon cylinder and flow regulator for TIG work.. Most definitely run some 6 gauge wire out to the garage, and a 50 amp breaker, TIG uses a lot of power. | ||
| Xring |
I've got two Lincoln welders, an AC-only 225 amp, 220V stick, and a 135T MIG-110V (looks similar to the 140 you linked to). I used the stick welder to weld together a Caddigger backhoe attachment for my farm tractor. (Documented for my own benefit here:http://www.geocities.com/brutusbackhoe/) I still use it for anything over 3/16" steel (farm implements, trailers, hitches, etc.) The MIG I bought specifically to learn how to weld aluminum (diamond plate) and for the occasional sheet metal welding. It has been a trouble-free little welder; once I built a toolbox or two out of diamond plate, I've hardly used it for aluminum since. Mostly use flux-core wire and use it for mild steel in the 1/8" to 3/16" thick range. For example the last time I used it was to build headlight brackets for one of my Farmalls. Two observations, and your results may vary. I can't consistently weld anything thinner than 1/8" thick with the flux-core wire. I've never set it up for MIG use for steel (only AL) and suspect that is what I need to do to weld thinner steel. Also, the other observation is general and well-known to all MIGS: if you are coming over from a stick welder (which I was), you can produce a very nice-looking weld that doesn't have adequate penetration - in contrast to the 220V machine, which will produce a useable weld that looks terrible. The very first project I did with my MIG was a trailer-hitch mount for a little tractor. I stuck it together in a few minutes; it looked good. When I got it mounted I inserted a pry-bar in it and broke the mount right off. Poor penetration. I went back over the welds with my stick welder, no problems. While MIGs of this class will claim they can weld 1/4" steel, you would have to be very careful about trusting them. You would have to go slow, and take frequent rest breaks so as not to exceed the duty cycle of the welder. Or weld in multiple passes. I didn't have any problems welding AL with the MIG. I'd read how feeding the wire was a problem, and how you really need a spool gun. And how difficult it is to weld aluminum in general. Don't let that scare you off of it, I didn't have any problems. Not that my welds look like TIG welds, but by the time I got done, they weren't too bad. Good luck. Makes a great winter project. Bill | ||
| Xring |
but are wholly inadequate for use on Aluminum I'd agree with that with the exception of sheet metal. My little MIG is rated to 10-ga aluminum, and I believe would be just adequate for that. Nothing structural. Bill | ||
| Buellnuts |
Mike, When shopping for welding equipment,(ALLWAYS) Upgrade before you purchase. Life and fabrication will be a lot easier. MIG, (Metal and Inert Gas) Lincoln, Miller or Hobart. No exceptions. TIG,(Tungsten and Inert Gas) Same but if you intend on welding aluminum More power is manditory. 175amp minimum. I would opt for a Spool gun for the MIG machine and Lincoln is going to intoduce an affordable one if they have not allready. New MIG machines will turn down and weld very thin metal and intricate welding. There is a huge selection of welding wires available for just about any application. Fullpower is correct on the Lincoln econo TIG 175 but could use more amp's for aluminum. (Great Machine) and a good stick welder. If I where you, I would buy a "Name brand" MIG machine with a Spool Gun. I would also purchase a Lincoln Square wave 175 econo TIG for stick and TIG. That will cover all your bases. You know, Any DC stick machine makes a pretty good TIG welder without the ability to weld aluminum. Thats a whole other subject I spoze. In theRain Forest, Bob | ||
| Etennuly |
I use a Millermatic 250 MIG for steel, stainless, and with a spool gun for alum. I have two gas bottles; Argon Co2, and Argon. If you go gas, the medium to large bottles are a better deal and they last a really long time for project welding. If you plan to actually weld anything go with the 240v system, it will pay for itself in the first five minutes of welding based on the frustration meter. I have found that a cheap used 240v welder is much better than an expensive new 120v welder. Remember, welding requires clean metal. I've had many rookies come to work for me complaining that the machine won't weld and the tip is no good. I simply clean the ground clamp spot, then grind the weld path clean and run a smooth strong bead. They always say something like "well it wouldn't work for me". Read what ever info you can on welding, then practice, then read, then practice, ect. My machine can be adapted for enough money, to a TIG later, but I haven't found the need yet. Welding is like riding...don't skimp on gear! | ||
| Xbduck |
First, run the wire and upgrade the power to the shop. If you are looking at welders now and other toys later you will NEED MORE POWER. Sorry about yelling but some people miss the major point. As you add things to the shop you will need the power. Second, try to rent a few different models if you can. If you have friends with welders see if you can use it to practice. Please remember to buy the needed consumables, in other words use your own stuff as much as possible, and leave a little behind as a thank you. Third, the Millermatic 250 is a good solid machine however, if price is an issue, when isn't it, get a machine that runs on 220V. It will have a better duty cycle, you can weld thicker metal for a longer period of time. Weld penetration is about more than just the power you are using. I have seen some great welders set their bank welder (industrial type with 6 welders feeding off of 440V in one spot many floors away) once in a day and weld whatever came by. Fourth, practice, practice, practice and practice. You can learn a lot about puddle movement and control with the torches you have now. You didn't say how long ago you took the welding class but I hope you were shown how in the class. Don't just watch the puddle you also have to listen for the sizzle. The sound as you weld can help you tell if you are doing it right. Fifth, you have heard before also, keep the work clean. Also with MIG keep your tip clean and don't kink the gun lead. I have found when problems arise with MIG start with the simple fixes first. Esab has supposedly come out with a do everything machine on single phase 220V. I don't know if it is out there or if others have one similar or not. It has been a long time since I welded for a living and I don't keep up anymore.  I really miss welding at times. I hope my ramblings helped. | ||
| Mikej |
I stopped in at a local welding shop at lunch yesterday. The guy there said something about a Lincoln spool gun and wasn’t sure if it was available yet, probably the one Bob referred to. I’ll be seeing the electrician in the indirect family probably this weekend, will ask him to take a peek at the electrical panel in the garage to see if it already has 220 routed to it. I don’t recall what was run out there beside 100amps. If you can’t tell yet, I don’t do electrical and avoid it when I can, but I should learn more about it, just don’t like getting shocked, but if I’m going to be doing some electrical welding then I’ll just have to kick myself into gear and learn a bit more about it. Enough electrical rambling bzzzzt-ouch-zap. I know I only have 110v outlets in the garage, but do remember telling the contractor who upgraded the house wiring that I planned to do some welding in the garage eventually, so maybe I just need an outlet and some wire ran from the panel in the garage. I should know more on Saturday. I need to rewire the whole garage anyway as just the service panel is new out there. Argh, more rambling, sorry.  For the aluminum welding I’m thinking of stuff like boat and canoe hulls, aluminum body panels, some scale model hobby stuff, and maybe a footpeg or gas tank on a motorcycle. I think the MIG outfit should handle that from what I’ve read so far. I downloaded some pdf files from the Millerwelds.com web page yesterday that I’ve been slowly skimming and reading. Bob, are you saying with any DC stick machine making a pretty good TIG welder that I can use an old buzzbox (as my dad called his) welder??? One of my dad’s buzzboxes went to a relative and another one went to scrap metal since it was fairly well gone. I do see them locally at rummages and barn sales and such sometimes, but shy away from them since I don’t know when to plug the cables into the different power holes on the box for different applications. But that’s just some learning I guess I need to do. Plus a bunch of the ones I see have the cables all weather cracked and need replacing so probably not worth the usual asking prices. So, it’s starting to sound like I’d be eventually better off getting a second machine for the TIG stuff, but a decent MIG welder should handle most of my immediate needs well enough. What are everyone’s thoughts on the dual power machines? Miller has one (or more) that can run on either 110v or 220v. This might give me a bit more flexibility if I find a need to run the welder away from home someplace. Anyway, time to crack my knuckles, lean back, and dig back into the pdf files to read up a bit more. Then off to HalfPriceBooks at lunch to see what they have for welding books. Then I need to start thinking of projects around the house to get the welding setup into the family budget somehow, and hit ebay and craigslist to start selling off a few unused items for extra welding funds. Okay, 220v system, MIG to start off with, get a spool gun when I can for the boat hulls, and rewire the garage. Guess I’ll have to set up a welding curtain of some sort as well, or plan on running the welder in the alley out back which won’t be fun in the winter. Thanks for all the input so far, it helps a bunch.  | ||
| Mikej |
Quick question: I have 100amp service out to the garage, if a welder says it has a 30-180amp output does that mean I won’t be able to use the full range of the welder’s power output? I assume that the garage lights take some of the power out of the 100 available amps, as would a heater or fan, so does that mean I’m limited to something just under 100amp output with my currently available electrical service? Let's just ignore the 110v vs 220v situation for the moment. The Mrs. would not be pleased if the computer in the house dies when I lay a welding bead in the garage. | ||
| Bomber |
Mike -- welder output does not necessarily have a 1 to 1 relationship with it's power consumption -- somewhere in the welder specs should be it's power requirements -- most welders (that aren't gaseous -- referring to the hardware, not the operator) include bull-goose, king-hell step-up transformers as part of their internal organs | ||
| Mikej |
Thanks, I’ll have to look up the power requirements. Somehow I had a feeling this wasn’t going to be as simple as plugging a box into the wall and melting two pieces of metal together. King-hell? Bull-goose?  I do know that my personal power consumption often exceeds my power output, I need to work on that too over this winter. | ||
| Henrik |
http://products.esabna.com/index.html/screen/arc_w elding_equipment_secondary/lang/EN/display_id/id43 628b95b436b4.42715303 | ||
| Toona |
I have 3 Hobart 135 MIG units, using gas and 2 Miller 180 Squarewave TIG units in my shop. 2 of the 3 MIG units are set up with a spool gun, I weld aluminum with them and the 3rd is set up just for steel. To see what I do, check the link in my profile. Depending on how much aluminum welding you plan on doing, you can "convert" the 135 to an aluminum welder by reversing the polarity leads to the handset and install a vinyl liner in the "cable/handset". The price of the spool gun and drive unit are more than the "box" itself. I think the Hobart 135 is in the $500 range and the spool gun and drive unit are in the $650 range, last time I bought them. If you are going to "push" the aluminum thru the cable/handset, you'll need to run .035 wire diameter/5356 temper aluminum. Anything smaller (wire diameter) and softer (wire temper 4043 etc) will bind up with regularity and you will waste a bunch of wire. Make sure you buy the tips to match wire diameter. Most come with an .023 tip for steel wire. Hobart is owned/built by Miller. In the 15 years I've used their stuff, I've only had to change 1 trigger in the handset, a $7.00 item and about 15 minutes to do it. To be fair, I've never used/owned Lincoln equipment. The 135 mig would be good for anything up to 1/4 steel for good penetration. If you plan on doing anything heavier, on a regular basis, go with the 175 mig. If you plan on doing a lot of thinner (1/8" or less) welding, I would stay with the 135. The lowest setting on a 175 mig will probably be too hot for the thin stuff. For the occasional thick welds, you could always make multiple passes. I personally wouldn't weld with the flux core set up w/o gas. I think it is messy and cuts corners. Yes the bottle will cost $, but most welding shops will rent/lease you the bottle for a monthly/yearly fee. If going with the bottle set up, you will need a CO2/Argon mix for steel and Stainless steel and a pure Argon tank for aluminum welding. If you have any other questions, please call me at the number on my website. Dan | ||
| Xbduck |
When I welded pipe for Brown & Root Construction our TIG set-up was very simple. 1) Argon gas bottle 2) Flow meter for the gas 3) 10 Ft. gas hose 4) Adapter to take gas hose and lead power to TIG torch lead 5) TIG torch power lead 6) Complete TIG torch head 7) Variable adjusting buzz box welder (usually a Miller Thunderbolt if it wasn't a gas powered welder) 8) A second ground clamp lead to put the power to the TIG lead adapter or just use the stick welder clamp on the power adapter This set-up gives you a simple TIG machine. There is no heat control past the welder adjustment, that is why a variable adjuster is important. With the right touch you will be able to weld just about everything except aluminum. You need a high frequency welder to TIG weld aluminum well. I think that is why the MIG welder is used, with argon gas preferably. I'll try to get a picture of my simple set-up this weekend if I can learn to post pictures before next week! Thanks Henrik that's the girl, and man does an Esab run sweet. I got to flurt with one for a week but the shop owner couldn't swing the new TIG machine price, oh but what a week. I almost bought it for me to use in his shop. (Message edited by xbduck on November 17, 2006) (Message edited by xbduck on November 17, 2006) | ||
| Reepicheep |
So has anyone sucessfully welded aluminum with an oxy-act rig? Is it even worth trying? | ||
| Mikej |
This is interesting stuff that I've never bothered to try to learn before. Found out a bit about why welding aluminum stuff is a peculiar process, what with the oxidized surface layer having a different melting point than the main material, so either the surface oxidizing needs to be removed or needs to be blasted past to get to the main material for proper welding. No wonder I had no success with the oxy/acet torch monkeying with aluminum in the past, fun to melt though. Reep, What I've just read is that the oxygen in the oxy/act mix tends to immediately oxidize the aluminum making the surface have a different melting point than the inner material. At lease that's my understanding subject to correction. Toona/Dan, Neat stuff that you do, bet you have a bit of fun on the job. Some of that is right along the lines of what I'd like to do eventually. This could become a dangerous afternoon, I've got a clear appointment free afternoon which I haven't had on a Friday for quite sometime now. Might have to take a slight detour on the way home and hit a few weld shops to see what I can see and learn. Then take the rest of the afternoon to keep working on getting the garage in order now that I've got the roof on it recovered. Seriously, I really appreciate all the input and advice and suggestions from everyone so far. Thank you. | ||
| Jackbequick |
The issue with welding aluminum is sort of complex. You need to create a molten puddle that spans a joint between two pieces of metal and add a like filler metal to the puddle. With TIG you quickly create a small molten puddle that results from a pinpoint high amperage arc. The puddle is shielded from oxidation by a gas and you add metal to the puddle by touching it with the filler rod. You move the puddle along the seam or joint, adding filler as you go, and the depth of the puddle, as a generalization, is only a little more than half of the thickness of the metals being joined. To create the same puddle with a O/A rig requires a massive amount of heat and the area that is heated to melting point is much larger and deeper. The adjoining area that is also nearing the melting point is massive in comparison to that with a TIG welder. That is what creates the most commonly described failure in attempts to weld aluminum with a O/A rig, the situation where "everything melted and ran away". The key issue is the inability to quickly create a molten puddle that is not too deep. Welding aluminum with a MIG (wire feed) welder will work better than O/A but the process does not lend itself to precise welding on thinner metals. With a MIG welder you are basically creating a "shielded standing puddle" (my words) by shooting a filler wire into the arc point at a rate that sustains the arc and adds filler metal while, at the same time, you are moving the puddle along the joint. The "shielded standing puddle" is hot enough to melt down into and join with the two pieces of metal being joined. MIG welds in aluminum are characterized by what is often called a "caulking gun" look with much more metal standing on the surface and in the joint than would seen with a TIG weld. If the MIG welder has a good knowledge of welding and knows what to look for, they can get good welds in aluminum by playing with the wire size, the speed of their advance, the wire feed rate, and the amperage. And on some welders, some those can be controlled from the MIG "gun" as you weld. It is possible with any welding process to produce welds that look right and look good but that do not have adequate width and depth of penetration to create a strong joint. My experience with wire feed welders is limited but I found them to be very easy to get started with and generally capable of producing good welds/strong joints in steel. But MIG welding was not as easy on aluminum. Also, aluminum MIG welds were "unsightly" when compared to TIG welds. They could not be cleaned and radiused to present as attractive an appearance as TIG welds could be. To weld aluminum with TIG you need an AC welder. To TIG weld steel, you need a DC welder. To do both, you need a AD/DC power source. My first choice for welding processes, especially around motorcycles, would be TIG. My second process would be "stick" or SMAW welding. The SMAW work could, in some cases, also be done with a MIG welder. So I would look at multiple process welder that is both AC and DC and that will do both TIG and stick (SMAW) for a starting rig. And if I wanted to do aluminum, I'd look for one that either has the equipment for AC TIG welding built in or included. Or make sure that it could be added later with optional components (that used to be called a high frequency unit). If you are serious about welding aluminum make sure you understand the power requirements for the thicknesses you intend to weld, they are much higher than are needed for welding steel. For aluminum, think in terms of needing to buy a welder that is rated at two to three times what would be needed for welding steel only. Jack | ||
| Csg_inc |
Anyone tried the HTS-735-II Fluxless Brazing rod (low-heat) for most non-ferrous metals. I watch a demonstration at the IMS show here in Phoenix and it look very simple to use on aluminum. Tensile strength 45,000 psi, Shear 31,000 psi and a melting point of 717-735 degrees F about 500 degrees less than base metal with almost any heat source. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Those are impressive stats, sounds like a good option if you can clean and machine sufficient for a good clean joint. On the other hand, it's kind of nice with the Oxy/Act rig to be able to have an inch wide gap somewhere (and a LOT of welding rod) and "fill in the holes". Measure once, cut once, then fill in with weld, and grind to fit (Message edited by reepicheep on November 17, 2006) | ||
| Bomber |
Reep -- thousands (millions?) of miles of aluminum were, in fact, welded prior to MIG and TIG coming on the scene -- true, it takes a great deal of skill, indeed (this is not to say that MIG/TIG welders replace skills, far from it) there are also aluminum brazing and "welding" rods that will approximate a good weld with much less heat -- Eastwood sells some, and the guys at the Motorcycle shows "welding" beer cans seel similar stuff -- wouldn't use it on a frame member, but for catch cans and the like, it's great fun! | ||
| Csg_inc |
Bomber yes that was the show. Punch a hole in the bottom of the beer can (empty) and weld (Braze) it back up then beat on it with a hammer. In the case of connecting two tubes (frame pieces) their system was really "tinning" the ends of both pieces to be connected and then solder(braze)the two pieces together. I agree with you I sure would want to see certified test of a few before I would trust it. But it sure looked like for some simple non-structural (life not dependent on it) connections that even I could do it. | ||
| Mikej |
Thanks all, More food for thought, and more thoughts to ponder. Friday I went to a different weld supply shop, seems a bit more knowledgeable, more willing to deal a bit for a complete package, has some units on sale, has knowledge of soon to be released units, got a good feeling there so probably will deal there when the time comes. Finding out later this afternoon if my garage electrical service will handle a 230v welder, or if I have to run more wires out from the house or street. | ||
| Jackbequick |
If your garage has a washer and dryer in it, you probably have a 30A 230V outlet. The rating on the welder will be the amperage needed when you are welding at the highest amperage setting. I used a Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC stick welder that called for a 100A outlet for a number of years off of a 30A dryer outlet. I never used the welder with bigger rod (over 3/16") and at any settings that were high enough to trip the 30A breaker. The new inverter type welders draw a lot less power then the older transformer type "buzz boxes" did. Jack | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Mike, I have a old Lincoln copper wound AC stick welder, a oxy/acet, and a small off brand (Solar, made by Centry, now owned by Lincoln) The old Lincoln produces awesome welds. The copper windings are far superior to the modern aluminum. It's very smooth and sputter free when welding. Very low spatter. If you can find one of the old ones, get it. I don't use it very often but it's great when I need it. The Solar MIG is a 120V unit. I wish I had sprung for a 220V version. There has been lots of time when I could have used the extra capacity. Having said that, I use it ALL the time. I've run countless tanks of C75 and many spools of wire through it. It's been a good unit for around $500. The gas torch is used mainly for heating stuff up that won't move or needs to be bent (like a S2 kickstand...) I also use it for brazing on occasion. Next on the wish list is a TIG welder. It's a pain in the butt to switch the mig to aluminum and the welds aren't that pretty. Plus I don't have a spool gun, they work better with aluminum. I've never really had a problem with a standard mig gun, I would rather have that than a spool gun. The spool guns are great but are not as manuverable as the gun. There are pros and cons to both, I prefer the standard gun. Bob hit it on the head above, stick to a big three name brand. Parts are much easier to find and service is easier if needed. Oh yeah, get wired for 220, you won't regret it. Opens up many more options for you. Brad | ||
| Mikej |
Looks like the garage has 220v (230v?) available in the box, but the wires are marginal for anything over 40-50amps. Right now my thoughts are to start off with a small MIG 110v outfit to give me portability. Then either a plasma cutter or a 220v TIG unit. Somewhere in there I'll add in a 220v stick arc welder unit. At least that's the plan I keep coming back to. | ||
| Henrik |
...but the wires are marginal for anything over 40-50amps. I'm in the same situation - running new cables is out of the question - much too involved. Maybe I'll have MikeyP swing by and give his opinion. XBduck; the Esab looks very nice indeed. I don't even dare ask what something like that might cost ... Henrik | ||
| Csg_inc |
Henrik any chance you could put an outlet on the side of the house next to your service panel and then go to the RV store for and extension chord used for large travel trailers? Usually very reasonable prices and handle about 50 amp. DAVE | ||
| Henrik |
David; that's an idea. Of course the service panel is inside the basement at the opposite end of the house in relation to the garage - it's never easy Still a good idea worth looking into though. Henrik | ||
| Csg_inc |
Henrik How close is your next door neighbor? Court could probably get you some "Hot taps" Now in the middle of the night.......................... |
