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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Tires » Archive through April 10, 2007 » X1 Tire change,help!! « Previous Next »

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Betzy
Posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 09:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK all you did it before and know the do's and dont's.
Have to take my wheel off and bring to shop to swap tires. I am working on getting a service manual, need to ride this weekend though!!

I take the rear brake caliper 2 bolts, take the axle nut off, move adjusters all the way front to loosen wheel to remove belt. remove shaft.

Tire should slip out. Am i missing anything?
Do i need to remove the sprocket for the tire change?

Then put it back on with the same reverse process?
What kind of grease do we use for the shaft?

Thks in advance for any help.
Betzy
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Bigdog_tim
Posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 11:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't have an X1 (but do have an M2). On the M2 - you really don't have to loosen the adjusters at all. Once you take the brake caliper bolts off (remove caliber from rotor) and take off the axle nut, just take out the axle. Push the wheel forward to the point you can slip the belt off. Tire should be free then.

On reassembly, any anti-seize compound will work. I use Locktite Anti-Seize - but other brands are fine (have also used the copper kind as well).

You don't need to remove sprocket or rotor to change tire/remove wheel.

TIP: on the M2, the brake caliper serves as a spacer on the left side and there is another spacer on the right. When you put the wheel back on, make sure you get the spacers lined up. Also - they tend to be finger pinchers (voice of experience talking).
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Bigdog_tim
Posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 11:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oops - forgot - you will need torque wrench to tighten rear axle nut. Also - brake caliper bolts are also torqued. Bible for the M2 says to use locktight on the caliper bolts as well.
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Betzy
Posted on Thursday, October 05, 2006 - 10:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thks Bigdog_tim, i'll let you how it goes.
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Betzy
Posted on Sunday, October 08, 2006 - 08:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I just got my first wheel change under my belt. Not a wrencher by trade so was a little nervous. Didn't help that I bought an inch/lbs torque wrench to start!! After getting the right one got everything on just right. took it for a test ride and nothing fell off, relief.
I did make one boo boo, because the wrench was wrong I ended up torquing the axle nut at 100ft lbs before realizing something was off. Then I backed it off and did the proper 70 ft lbs. Anyone think I did permanent damage?
Going too go burn off the little "nobee's" this aft.
Thanks again Big Dog!
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Bigdog_tim
Posted on Friday, November 03, 2006 - 09:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Betzy - I suspect you are fine. I have from time to time over torqued things (I need to quite drinking beer when working on my bikes).

In this case, you MAY have compressed the bearings on the wheel a bit. Next tire change, I would make sure to check everything closely. I am pretty sure everything is fine. But - an ounce of prevention......
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