| Author | Message | ||
     Mrl |
All right here is my problem. I just got a 96 Buell S1. So far it is great but when I bought it the guy told me the tail light and turn signals didn't work. So I pulled the leads off the tail light and tested them with a volt meter. One lead gives me a constant voltage and the the other lead only gives a voltage when the brake lever is pulled in. So far so good. The problem is the voltage on both leads is only a fraction of a volt, let alone the full 12 that it should be. Has anyone had a problem with everything working like it should just having a very very low voltage? | ||
| Henrik |
Well, I'm a far cry from an electrical wizard, but I'd guess you need full voltage for full light output. I'd run through the basic electrical connections; ground strap, battery, tail light connections, brake light switch at the lever etc. Clean connections and di-electric grease. Henrik | ||
| Diablobrian |
sounds like there is resistance somewhere in the circuit, probably corosion on 1 or more connections. | ||
| Rocketman |
For tail light and rear (not front?) turn signals not to work, it sounds like too much of a coincidence for it not to be a fault somewhere along the rear harness to those lights. Most likely the harness is shorting somewhere under the tail unit plastic or a set of connectors are corroded. Where are you putting the 'ground' probe from your meter? If you are probing for 'ground'for your meter using the ground wire for those failed lights, you could have a poor contact on the 'ground' side and not the voltage to those applications, and that's what your meter is trying to tell you. Rocket | ||
| Diablobrian |
good call Rocketman, I was making an assumption (and we know about those) that he was using the chassis for his ground. | ||
| Rocketman |
Brian, I'm no electrician by any means, so I only answer the 'obvious', lol. A few weeks ago a 'friend' asked me to look at his Land Rover Freelander. He couldn't get the back door to open. It's electronic and opened by a coil type device with a moving centre that pulls a rod. I took a look in there, and at the wiring diagram, established there was no voltage to the motor when needed, and though the thought crossed my mind to cut the wire and false feed the motor, I didn't. Instead, I bared the live feed wire (there are only two wires - one direct to ground) and for something like a split second I false fed it 12 volts. Hey presto, the door unlatched confirming the door opening motor was working, thus telling me the problem was coming from the source, which is an ECU. Little did I know what lie ahead. Alarm will only turn off, not on, from remote key fob. All four flashers and both side repeaters are on permanent as in not flashing, but only when the ignition is off. Rear wiper won't work. Rear window won't work. Central locking won't work. Electric windows won't work. A call to the main dealer tells me the rear door motor works at 5 volts, and the technician goes on to tell me I've more than likely false fed the ECU 12 volts. Solution, try reprogram with the dealer interface doodah, £70 thanks very much, or replace the ECU. I go elsewhere for better price to an auto electrician who has so many lap tops, hand held diagnostics, code readers, you name it. Nope, none would talk to the Freelander despite him telling me to the contrary. Problem solved. 'Friend' ranting and raving, doesn't want me to touch Freelander any further. Drags Freelander to main dealer via recovery company. Stupid thing is, I'd already sorted a solution. I could have bought a used ECU and remote fob for £100, which is what was not talking to his rear door in the first place thus requiring replacement anyway. Main dealer fits new ECU and hits him with bill for nearly £400. 'Friend' refuses to pay for other work I've done, and money he owes from previous work, and he thinks I'm the biggest arsehole walking. One tiny little error is all it takes. Good riddance I say. Some friend he turned out to be after all these years. Rocket | ||
| Ocbueller |
Rocket, I feel your pain. Working on this new stuff ain't like it used be. Most of my friends who had small repair shops have had major changes in the way they do business. Most now just do routine replacement stuff like brakes,plugs, oil, etc... On the other hand the dealers have improved over the years somewhat. I still try to avoid dealerships whenever possible. SteveH |
