| Author | Message | ||
     Eastexsteve |
DJkaplan, I drilled the slide in my 2001 m2 to .110". I thought I could detect a little snappier throttle response. Nothing earth shattering. My mods so far are: K&N filter in stock box D&D slip-on 45 pilot 205 main stock needle shimmed .80" stock carb spring shortened 3/8" idle screw out 3 turns. I've tinkered back a forth either way with all of these carb mods, and I think where I have it now it where it needs to be. The bike really runs good. Wheelies easy in first with no clutch. Pulls good from 2000 with the power coming on at 4700 and pulls hard all the way. Power begins to taper off at about 5900, but still will pull clean to the rev limiter. I'm told this is because of the shorter duration of the cams. Still like to put it on a dyno and a sniffer though. | ||
| Eastexsteve |
Ooops - I meant .080" on the needle shim! | ||
| Eastexsteve |
One more booboo... The bike comes on at 3700, not 4700. I'll go to bed now. It's been a long day. | ||
| Blake |
Steve, Within one hour of posting, you can click on the little  pencil and paper icon at the top of your post to edit its contents.  | ||
| Djkaplan |
Eastexsteve, Thanks for the info. I'm not sure I'm going to drill the slide now. My throttle response is pretty sharp at low speeds and I'm not sure what I would gain. .080 on the needle sounds like a big increase in needle height. You must be at a pretty low elevation where you ride. What kind of mileage are you getting with that set-up? | ||
| Eastexsteve |
I'm still getting about 45mpg, which is what I was getting in stock form. I do live close to sea level. I know that sounds like a lot on the needle shim, but changing it from .020 to .040 seemed to make no difference. Changing it from .040 to .080 made it hit the power band about 200 rpm sooner. Also, a big reason is that D&D slip on is notorious for really letting it breathe in midrange. | ||
| Sarodude |
I'm looking for a one way / check valve that will be sensitive to the types of pressures one might find in our gravity feed fuel tanks. I've found something at http://www.PegasusAutoRacing.com. Part #3216 on page 39 of their Catalog PDF. I don't know how sensitive it'll be to the conditions on a carbed bike. Anyone have any suggestions? -Saro | ||
| Ara |
Saro - I don't have anything to offer, but I sure am curious as to the rationale. How come the check valve? | ||
| Sarodude |
Just wanted to try something out on my CA Blast while preserving the intent of the EVAP system. This would require a check valve to allow a slight vacuum to be relieved without allowing overflow or vapors out. -Saro | ||
| Geyservillebob |
My '99 S3T nearly killed me yesterday. I've been having this problem where I intermittently loose power during acceleration. It has been getting worse lately and yesterday it caught me in hard acceleration. I suddenly lost power and then it just as suddenly returned. I was whipped first forward and then backward and lost the grip on the clutch side and nearly lost it on the throttle side. The one-sided yank this caused on the throttle side caused a short violent wobble but fortunately I was able to hang on and recovered without incident. Needless to say it is time to fix this. When the power cuts out the check engine light comes on and the tach, speedo, etc. all stay powered so I don’t think it is a loose power main or bad system ground (agree?). It doesn’t do this until the engine is completely up to running temp. There are no other symptoms like rough idle or hard starting and power is fine except for when the cut outs occur. I pulled the error codes and got code 14 for bad engine temp sensor. I checked the resistance of the sender cold and hot and it checked out. The ECM applied bias voltage is also good hot and cold. I have the race ECM so I decided to put the stock ECM back in and see if the problem would go away. With the stock ECM I got the error code 14 again after a few miles of riding but no intermittent power loss. I can think of three possibilities; 1) The ET sensor is intermittent and the race ECM is very much more sensitive to the loss of the ET than the stock ECM. 2) Both the ET sensor and the race ECM are intermittently bad. 3) The ET sensor is intermittently bad but I fixed some other problem (like kinked vacuum or fuel line or shorted wiring harness) without realizing it when I swapped out the ECM. I'll probably put the race ECM back in and try it again to check out theory #3. Has anybody else experienced a failure like this? Do any of my theories make sense? Can a bad ET cause such a symptom and would it be more pronounced with the race ECM? Your help is appreciated and will help me get safely back on the road sooner than later. Bob | ||
| Tripper |
Bob; don't rule out bad battery cables yet. It's very common and when the NEG cable is loose strange things happen but the instruments may stay lit, giving confusing clues. I broke 3 cables in a matter of weeks until I found a way to route them that ensures they are forced tightly against the battery to avoid wiggling, and premature breakage. The lo freq vibes on these motors is hard on the large guage wire. Just my 2 cents. | ||
| Knickers |
Bob, I had the same symptoms with my '00 S3 except that the CE light didn't come on during cutout, but still had code 14. Running the stock ECM. I replaced the temp sensor and symptoms cleared up. I chalked it up to an intermittent fault. One thing though, the stock sensor was loose in its bore when I went to replace it. Something you may want to check first. I had the new sensor handy so I went ahead and replaced it anyway. | ||
| Noface |
After much reading on this BBS about breathers, I've been wondering how I might go about putting one on an XB9R. This afternoon I'm a little bored, so I decide to take a peek into the airbox. Well, one thing led to another, and I found myself with the entire airbox removed looking down between the cylinders, just kind of checking things out since I've never looked at what's under the box. While I'm there I decide to pull the rear plug and see how it looks. Plugs on the XB's are difficult to get to, especially the front. I guess you have to lower the engine to get to it. Anyway, here are a couple pics of the plug. Looks kind of lean to me. I've had no problems with the bike. I've never heard it ping or exibit a "lean" condition. Check 'em out and see what ya think. BTW, it's a Firebolt with the Buell Race Kit installed.    | ||
| Blake |
Man, you ARE bored. Looks to me like you are also determined to find something wrong with your engine.  What makes you say your plug exhibits indications of lean? If anything it looks a tad on the rich side to me. If the last thing your bike did was idle while cold, your plugs will probably show rich since the DDFI will enrich the mixture to allow a cold engine to run smoothly. If the last thing your bike did was cruise down the road in 5th gear your plugs might show a tad lean, at least if you had the stock ECM, since at that speed the EPA mandates the low emissions. If you are going to try to discern the state of your engine's tune and specifically its A/F mixture by scrutinizing your spark plugs, it is imperative that you run the bike in the range of power and rpm where you wish to conduct diagnosis. Otherwise you may get a composite combination of many conditions or the results of a condition (like idling with a cold engine) for which you are not concerned. For example if you suspect leanness at low rpm and partial throttle, you would install new spark plugs into a warm engine, take your bike out and run it at 55 mph in 5th gear at a steady cruiser-like pace. Then you would switch off the ignition, pull off to the side of the road, remove your plugs and replace them with new ones. Put the used plugs into a zip lock bag and return home to scrutinize them with magnifying glass and high intensity light source. Check out NGK's tech info pages; they have an excellent discussion on the topic complete with photos of a spark plug exhibiting signs of overly lean conditions. Bottom line though is that your engine is running fine and your spark plug looks great. At least to me. | ||
| Blake |
Bob, Try replacing your kickstand safety switch. | ||
| Noface |
I wasn't really looking for anything wrong, just got kinda curious. When I got the lower air box cover off, I figured, damn... I've had this bike almost a year and I've never looked at the spark plugs. I thought I'd post some pics so everyone could see. There's really no adjustability in the ECM or FI with the stock setup I suppose. And I was just wanting to gather some opinion on how the plugs looked. The bike was put up after a nice hard run. Not a plug chop, just a regular old spirited ride. It never idled more than a second or two when I was parking it in the garage. Hey, how'd you get my pics to arrange like that? I'll try to do that next time I post any if I can. Jody S. | ||
| Ezblast |
Thoughts please - All during the week - in city driving - no problem - take a long test drive where the main jet is is use and as soon as I slow back into city driving she floods, with gas pouring out of the carb - 3 weeks in a row. 1st. week - adjusted float, 2nd. week - aligned carb to vertical and readjusted float - now again - what am I missing? Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Djkaplan |
Ez, It sounds like you might have some debris keeping the fuel shut-off valvle from seating or the valve itself might be deteriorated. Sometimes the material (Viton?) can be damaged if you force the float down on the valve. | ||
| Tnhilbily |
Does Mikuni have an easy kit for buell? | ||
| Pammy |
EZ you may be getting some crap in between the float needle and seat. When next you have float bowl off, try sticking a q-tip into the seat and twist. What changed from the time you didn't have the problem to when you did. Make any changes? Upgrades? Get gas at a new place? Add a fuel additive? anything? | ||
| Ezblast |
Thanks Pammy and Djkaplan - I'm sure your both right - but I just had a rebuild done on it to save any further hassles and to complement the rebuilt motor. I squeezed a quick 50 mi. for testing - sweet fun and reliable sound. Now I'm going to hook myself up with some very heavy duty clamps to compliment the heavy duty hose I got - wire and fiber reinforced - to replace the weak rubber intake boot. Then its on - to more long range rides preping for the Aug. trip. All in the name of dialing in reliability;0) Thanks guys - any thoughts on the hose idea? Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Cowtownbueller |
All, where can I find a High Performance O2 Sensor. (2001 X1) Is it worthwhile replacing the original O2 with a High Performance O2, any comments? | ||
| Buellskinner |
Little help from the FI savy? 2001 X1 Race ECM, Pipe and Air cleaner New plugs and 02 Sensor Runs good to about 5000 in 5th gear then loads up and almost dies. It will eventually clean out and run well up to 5000 in 5th, and loads up again. Any ideas where to start looking? Has just started to do this. No issues from new ith the FI. Thanks | ||
| Buellskinner |
Cowtownbueller: Are you wanting to replace the stock 02 sensor with a better unit, or are your running the PC III aftermarket FI controller. If you are wanting to replace the stock unit with an upgrade, the Bosch 12014 is a direct replacement. It has the correct connection and is a plug and run. If you are looking to replace the factory 02 for use with the PC III that is a totally different story. If that is what you are trying to do, let me know and I'll dig up the part number. Be Safe | ||
| Buellskinner |
Cowtownbueller: " The O2 sensor that K&N puts out for the Power Commander is actually from a 90/91 3.8 liter Ford Thunderbird part# F1SZ-9F472-A. NOTE!!! If you do not use the exact part#, there are 3 different sensors for a 90/91 3.8 liter Ford Thunderbird... two will work, one will not. You want the sensor with FOUR wires and a WHITE plug and this comes in both a long and short lead version. The one that you do NOT want is the one with 3 wires and a black plug. The black plug has the same configuration as the white one except that one of the engaging prongs is approx. 30 degrees off from where it needs to be." Thanks for ZipTab for the above information. Hope this helps Ride safe | ||
| Rempss |
Exact brand and catalog number for the Dynojet supplied PCIII O2 is Standard Motor Products SG27. I believe the unit supplied by Buell is a SMP SG5, but cannot guarantee that. They do seem to make a better mousetrap than the Bosch units. Based on my use of many different brands for automotive use the SMP and NGK are superior based on the ability to read faster while in use. You have to search for them though, not at every corner store like the Bosch. Jeff | ||
| Josh |
Buellskinner, You'll probably want to check each sensor (Throttle Position Sensor, Intake temp, cam position) plus get a TPS reset and check for blockages/restrictions in the airpath. Also, check the plugs, wires and coil. You might also pull the O2 sensor or better yet replace it (one of the few times I'll throw money at the bike first - o2 sensor and pay for a TPS reset before I'm positive of the problem). I'd check all that before getting a TPS reset and then ride @2500-3000RPM for 10min. That'll give you a good baseline (provided none of this fixes it). | ||
| Cowtownbueller |
Buellskinner and Rempss, I do not have a PCIII and do not intend to get one. I'm in the process of modifying my intake, exhaust and ECM. I heard the O2 sensor was the weakest link of the DDFI sensors and wanted to upgrade it. I'm looking for a O2 sensor that will work better with the Race ECM. Are the Bosch, SMP and NGK actually a better O2 sensor or just a replacement with same performance? Does the K&N O2 sensor work only with the PCIII? Thanks, Cowtown | ||
| Rempss |
Cow, The O2 sensor supplied by Buell is the one designed for use with DDFI; I would not call it a "weak link". Maybe a "could be improved" link. It may be the SMP SG5, this has a housing similar to the Buell unit. Bosch & NGK units require a longer socket to remove because the "nut" is farther from the rear and the wiring exit makes it too long for a standard O2 socket. As for the quality of sensors, I have used many in different automotive performance applications. I have most experience with heated sensors. The SMP & NGK O2 sensors read faster than Bosch units when run in similar conditions as recorded by a laptop computer while in use. Whether unheated sensors have the same performance between brands I don't know for sure. Just biased I guess. The K&N O2 is a 4 wire heated sensor, it is a SMP SG27. The PCIII makes it easy to use a 4-wire sensor; all of the proper connections are there. You can use a 3 or 4 wire unit without it but you will need to run 2 leads to the sensor heater (and a ground for the 4 wire). I prefer a 4 wire type that does not rely on the header for ground. Very easy to do. A heater allows the sensor to heat up quickly and remain at a somewhat constant temperature. This produces consistent readings throughout the RPM range. A 1-wire sensor requires the exhaust to bring it to operating temperature and keep it there for accurate readings. This may not always happen after extended cruise periods allowing the sensor to cool a bit. Some info on O2 reading can be found here. An internet search will also bring up much more information if you like. Jeff | ||
| Buellskinner |
Jeff: We stated, we have seen about the same results with the NGK/NTK sensors that we use on the NASCAR engines during testing. Thanks Ride Safe Tom |
