| Author | Message | ||
     Jim_Witt |
Chris, You can pick up the flexible tubing at an aquarium store and any plastic out fit here locally like Ryan Herco or Regal Plastics. -JW:>  | ||
| Awgrimm |
The tubing I can find, but where do you get the filters? Thanks- Brad | ||
| Az_M2 |
Russ, Yep correct on the diameter. You want 3/8" ID (Internal Diameter I assume) as opposed ED (External Diameter?). Thanks for the offer to pick some up for me, but I think I'm going to see how the vinyl tubing holds up. I kind of expected it to dry out and start cracking toward the end of the summer, didn't really think about it yellowing. Since it was so cheap, I thought I'd just replace it as I need to. If it gets to be a hassle, I'll probably look for better fuel grade tubing, or take you up on your offer  Jim, Thanks for the suggestion. Brad, I got my filter at a small motorcycle parts & accessories shop. I think it cost around 9 or 10 bucks. You might want to check the site sponsors first and see if they have something. I know that K&N makes one in that size, but it's probably more $$$, with no added value. All the filter does is keep dust out while allowing the breathers to "breathe". There isn't a whole lot of air going through it. | ||
| Ara |
Brad, J&T Cycles has several. It's where I got mine, and I'm pleased with the quality. Good outfit. You make one purchace from them and they send you their 1/2 inch thick full color catalog every year. Dogonne if I can find the web site, though. | ||
| Awgrimm |
Could you mean J&P Cycles? http://www.jpcycles.com/shop/group.asp?GPID=3661&PLID=6&DPID=176 Also, after you run the hose to the catch-can, do you need to plug the hole in the breadbox? (Yes, I still have the breadbox...) -Brad | ||
| Ara |
Yes, thank you Brad, J&P Cycles. Yes indeed, you do need to seal the breadbox. Duct tape on both sides is a decent temporary measure, but recommend you get a solid grommet. Another way is two pieces of aluminum, plenty of silicone sealer, and a SS bolt and locknut. | ||
| Ara |
Az-M2, I stopped by my local NAPA and found that they don't carry any clear tubing of any description. Red herring. I guess if we want to see the goo, we're stuck with polyethelyne tubing. I had another idea, though. If there was a way to construct a clear catch can, the type of tubing we used wouldn't matter - black rubber fuel line would be fine. Anybody got any ideas of how to put together a clear plastic catch can? Russ | ||
| Aesquire |
Ara, wander the $1 store or k/wal-mart in the kitchen dept. Pick container that fits the space or looks neato, drill holes for hoses, insert filter or filter material, (I like the plastic mesh from a pot scrubber), auto parts store for K&N type breather filter if you prefer. Viola! | ||
| Aesquire |
Install with zip ties, or fabricate $400 Ti billet clamp system to NASA specs, as you please. | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Russ, If you go to any plastic piping supply house (they sell PVC, CPVC, teflon tubing etc.) you can buy "clear" piping. They also make "clear" fittings in any style, clear primer and glue. If you know anyone in the semiconductor field (pipefitter or inhouse individual) maybe they can snag you some scrap. They typically use miles of clear PVC for their chemical distribution systems for containment piping. Cheers, -JW:> | ||
| Ara |
Aesquire and Jim, Thanks you guys. I'm going to follow up on this. Jim, I know what PVC stands for, does the "C" in CPVC stand for clear? Clear primer and glue, too? Cool! If successful, I promise to post photos. Russ | ||
| Bomber |
an all clear breather system would be almost as cool as the little windows that some bevel-drive ducati owners installed on the top of their drive towers | ||
| Sparky |
What Jim_W said. I've found clear tubing in sizes up to 3/4 inch in pet store aquarium sections. | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Guys, Just keep in mind that TUBING is different than PIPE (wall thickness, O.D.'s, operating temperatures rangers, pressure, braid-reinforced, bacteria characteristics etc.) and therefore manufactured for different processes. Just to let you know, clear vinyl flexible tubing comes in sizes as large as 3” I.D (not cheap either). I only mentioned going to an aquarium store because there’s a store near nearly everyone. I'm sure sell polyurethane tubing but it won’t matter for your application. My Son has some major greenbacks tied up in quite a few large salt-water acquariums but we’re more into the high-purity piping and tubing for his application. BTW, clear PVC pipe and clear PVC pipe fittings come in nominal sizes from ¼ to 8”. And Russ the C stands for Chlorinated PolyVinyl Chloride. It’s has a higher temperature rating, up to 210 degrees F. It’s a different color than standard PVC, uses different primer and glue too. Just for shits and giggles, make sure when you put the primer on the END of the pipe that the END is always down. Otherwise the primer will run DOWN the pipe and discolor the clear PVC. -JW:> | ||
| Ara |
Jim, I thought that standard aquarium tubing was polyethelyne. Not so? Is polyurethane tubing more durable? More resistant to temperature and chemicals? Sparky, the polyethelyne stuff I got from Ace Hardware starts turing yellow relatively quickly. Also, is all CPVC clear or can it be had clear? What other materials might clear pipe and fittings come in? Lexan? Acetate? Thanks for your help, Jim. This is definitely an avenue worth pursuing. Russ | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Russ, I only mentioned the polyurethane tubing because I was thinking of airlines, my mistake. It withstands oil, grease, fuels and some chemicals. It's resistand to weather and ozone. Yes ,to my knowledge (but I'm not the expert) most aquarium stores sell vinyl (Poly Vinyl Chloride) and polyethelyne tubing. Don't think I said they made clear CPVC (and they don't) only clear PVC. The only other "pipe" I'm aware of that's clear is glass piping. We use the clear PVC as a "secondary-containment system" in chemical distribution systems. Then we pull (or run) carrier tubing (PFA, Teflon etc.) inside the clear containment piping. BTW off topic but, do you know what hydrofluoric acid is and what it can do to you? I was reading a postings in the sci.engr.joining.welding newsgroups the other night and some fucking idiot was using HF to etch (electropolish) some piping at his home and didn't have a clue how outrageously dangerous this stuff is (like the most strongest and most corrosive acid known). Cheers, -JW:> | ||
| Aesquire |
They used to put hydroflouric acid in wax lined ceramic jars. (Guess why, not you JW) When I worked at Lightnin Mixers, a customer was complaining that the stainless steel parts were corodin' too fast, I recommended Ti, or glass. Then I found out he was mixing boiling nitric acid with hydroflouric acid vapor. (I have NO IDEA why, he couldn't tell me) the expression on the engineers face when I asked for flourite (rock) parts was precious. | ||
| Aesquire |
Then they made ME make them  | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Pat, Just curious, sure your not talking about Hydrochloric (HCI) instead of hydrofluoric (HF)? Cheers, -JW:> | ||
| Aesquire |
Yep, Fluorite rock already is bound to the Flourine atoms, so is unaffected. Hydroflouric acid was also the nasty by product of an experimental rocket engine NASA tried, once. Flourine & Hydrogen powered, great ISP, bad for the bystanders. Don't want to stand downwind of the new airborne laser either. | ||
| Ara |
As I understand it, HF acid is the only thing that will etch glass with any efficiency. I knew it was exceptionally powerful, but if I'm reading your comments correctly it's also toxic? I've never had occasion to mess with the stuff, but I've toyed with the notion of etching "Buell" into my derby cover. Jim, you're right. It's vinyl (polyvinylchloride) tubing that I've got in my breather system, not polyethelyne. I wonder if the polyethelyne would age slower in that application. BTW I dropped by my local Lowes home improvement center this morning on my way to work and they don't have clear PVC. Where would one look for it??? A plumbing supply house, or some place more specialized? Russ | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Russ, In my profession, HF in any concentration is the most feared of any (although there are many other contenders) chemical, gas or waste product in a base-build or startup process at a semiconductor facility. full-facepiece positive-pressure What makes HF so outrageously dangerous is you can’t visually distinguish it from water in appearance. In a semiconductor fab it’s quite common to have some major leaks (or simple drips) upon startup, whether they be mains, branches or intricate piping arrangement at a tool (a large piece of equipment). Imagine something as simple as looking up to describe something to a fellow worker and having it drip on your skin or in your mouth. What makes this shit so dangerous is the symptoms are not immediately noticeable. The fluoride ion penetrates the skin causing destruction of “deep tissue layers”, causes bone damage (eats the calcium from body tissues and bones) and can continue on for days (depending on the concentration) if left untreated. Also if not cleaned up properly the residue can be reactivated as well. Take a few minutes and do a search for the MSDS sheet on Hydrofluoric acid. Some pretty scary stuff. As far as "finding" clear PVC, it shouldn't be to difficult. No you won't find it a a plumbing store or Ace Hardware. You'll need to look for a larger fluid supply house like RyanHerco. There are distributers in Alabama BTW. -JW:> | ||
| Aesquire |
Ding ding ding A Winner.!! Yep HF eats right through glass. (and people, and steel...) | ||
| Aesquire |
The first several chemists that "discovered" Flourine got killed in the process. It's That nasty. I sure am glad it doesn't come out of out breathers. (there, back on topic lol ) | ||
| Ara |
Aesquire - Marie Curie suffered a similar fate, but it was Radium not Flourine. Had they owned Buells and frequented the BadWeb we could have warned them. Astronomers seem to have the safest job in science. | ||
| Ara |
Jim, I've called every source of plastic pipe and tubing and also visited the largest aquarium shop (as big as a Walgreen's) in my area. I came up empty. No clear PVC and no polyethyle tubing. I visited the Ryan Herco site, but I just need a scrap - maybe 5 inches of 2-inch diameter, thick wall, clear PVC and a couple of caps. I'm way below their threshold of interest. If you can help me out, I'd be indebted to you. Russ | ||
| Blaster420 |
Ara, I'm not sure if this will help, we used to use a clear PVC type of pipe for the skin coolers on the Riverboat. We got them from a glass shop here in town. If not that find the closest head shop and cut a few inches off of one of their 6' graphics. Just an Idea, Ben | ||
| Ara |
Ben, Thanks. I called an auto glass shop that also advertised in the plastics section, but they didn't have any. I'll give some general glass outlets a try. Didn't understand what you said about the head shop and the 6' graphics, though. Thanks for the recommendation. I'll make a couple of calls during lunch. Russ | ||
| Blaster420 |
Ara, the graphics is made of acrylic, that should work for what you need it for. You might also try a Farm store, Also look up Motion Industries, I can check at the one here and see what they have. Just let me know what specifics you need. Ben | ||
| Ara |
Ben, Thanks but I didn't find anything useful at www.motionindustries.com. What I'm trying to do is make a clear plastic catch can that will not be damaged by the gunk that comes out of the breathers. To do it I need 4 to 6 inches of clear, chemical resistant, thick wall, rigid tubing and two thick-wall caps. Diameter = 2 to 2.5 inches, in that ballpark. I specify thick wall because I'm going to drill and tap this stuff to mount the nipples and drain. I will also need whatever clear glue and primer is necessary. If this thing works out, I'll post pictures and methods. If it looks like I can work out a small quantity relationship with a source, I'll even make them for Badwebbers. Problem is, I live in Huntsville, Alabama and this town is very aptly named. ;-( Anything you can do to help, Ben, will be greatly appreciated! Russ |
