| Author | Message | ||
     Mikej |
"If I fine a god link I will post it." Was that a typo????? The more we learn, the less we know. | ||
| Bomber |
and if anyone doubts Mike's statement, live with a teeneager for a week (grinning) | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Anyone using a Techlusion fuel optimizer? Any help or ideas, I havent put one on yet, but was thinking about it. Im going to get some work done on my '99 X1, nothing radical, head work, cams, maybee a slight overbore. Any other concerns that I might want to address while I have most of the motor apart? Craig | ||
| Blake |
Craig, Race ECM. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Ok, I should have started from the beginning. I have the Race ECM, a Forcewinder, and a Vance & Hines Pipe. I wasnt sure what the limits of the ECM were for changing the cams. Im gonna try the ECM alone first, and then if we cant get the A/F ratio to even out then we will probably try a fuel optimizer. Craig | ||
| Blake |
Check the X1 dyno charts showing over 100 RWHP. They use only the race ECM. You should be fine. If not, it would be a mistake to automatically assume that you need EFI augmentation. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Just a question of me being hopeful.  Do you think that my setup should yeild 100hp? I know that there are alot of variables, but im doing my homework right now on the dyno charts to see what the top setups are and am gonna try to mimic them. Craig | ||
| Blake |
You'll need head porting, and the right cams and exhaust. They all need to work together as a system. I don't recall seeing any top performing bikes with a V&H muffler. That's not to say it won't work, just that there are better mufflers and full systems (headers+muffler) out there for high performance. | ||
| Pilk |
Reliable horsepower from an EFI Buell? List of mods to make it happen. Pammy, suggestions, I tried to contact you via your web site but think maybe you didnt get it. Thanks Pilk | ||
| Blake |
Headwork by Cycle Rama or Nallin Racing, pistons by same, cams, performance exhaust, race ECM... voila... 100+ RWHP. | ||
| Josh |
 Here's a nicely tuned (thanks Aaron) S1 w/race ign, race header, race air cleaner (thanks Aaron), and Stainless Specialties muffler vs a 99 S3 with semi-race kit and Nallin Stg 1 heads. I looked for my stand-alone S3 chart but can't find it. 95RWHP for $500(heads)+$45(filter)+ $350(header) +$140(race ECM)+ $200(Stainless Specialties muffler). | ||
| Bonsaimark |
I have been lurking around here for about two years now. A year ago I bought a 01 X1 with V&H slip on. I have added race ecn, force air filter, power comander. About a month ago, the bike started intermittinly running rich. When I hook the power comander to the pc, the screen which shows percentage of throttle shows 0 being 106% and full throttle being 0%. I suspect the TPS. My Question: Do I need therapy? Has anyone had a similer problem? {with the fuel injection} otherwise I like the Fuel Injection Just curious What does it take to convert to a carborator? Thanks Guys I have learned alot from reading your posts. | ||
| Rempss |
Without any additional information in your profile I will assume you listed all of your modifications. It's a weight issue, loose about 2-1/2 lbs of PCIII and see what happens. First - - Was the throttle position sensor "reset" per the service manual at 500 miles & when the Race ECM was added? - Was the throttle position sensor function of the PCIII set correctly when installed? - How long has the system been running well before having problems? - What was the last thing you did before the problems? The PCIII does some pretty bad things when mated to the Buell DDFI Race ECM. See a recent discussion here. Some links to my previous opinions. Search the board for PCIII, Powercommander and junk. Yow will find much more on this subject. My standard disclaimer on this subject, it's my opinion. If you like the PCIII and it works for you, great, it did not for me and many others posting similar stories here and elsewhere. Jeff | ||
| Blake |
I agree. Lose the Power Confounder. | ||
| Bonsaimark |
the bike had 3000 miles on the clock when I got it so I can't say about TPS being set at 500. When I had the dealer install the race ECM {no power confuser }they reset the tps. The power commander TPS was set at install. It ran good for a month or so, I didn't make any changes. Then!!! I disconnected the power commader it still runs rich. | ||
| Bonsaimark |
PS, Both ECMs stock and race run rich {no power commander} I'll take it to the dealer to reset/replace TPS next week. I have done all my own mechanic work in the past 30 years.My dad has owned mostly peterbilts from 64' till present the latest is a updated 52' that works better than alot of new ones. thanks again!! | ||
| Blake |
Good luck, let us know what happens. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Got a question about drilling the hole out in the stock carb slide. I seem to remember there being a statement about what size drill bit to use at the top of this thread, but it's gone. Is this not considered a good thing to do now? I've got the stock Keihin with a Factory Ti needle set in the middle position and the mixture screw turned 2 1/2. I'm using the stock jets, 200 main and 42 pilot. I figured I'd fatten the pilot up, but the needle included in the Factory Rejet kit seemed to do the trick. I didn't want to make sweeping changes, just one at a time. I've got good color on the plugs and my pinging problem stopped so I stopped there. Back to the slide. I think I remember 1/8" being the size drill recommended. Would drilling the dampening hole larger make the throttle response too sharp? What exactly is gained from this mod? Any suggestions or comments? | ||
| Reepicheep |
When I asked that same question, I did not get any good reasons or hard evidence for drilling the slide. I just swapped the pilot for a 45, and did the 2.5 turns, and things got a lot better (though I still get a little ping now and then). I never heard of the factory rejet kit, or the Ti needle? Whats that? | ||
| Deanna73 |
We drilled the slide along with other things and got tips from http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdcvcarb1.htm http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html Feels much stronger/crisper throttle response but we haven't actually been out to ride yet. It may be the snow effects. d | ||
| Rippin |
I believe Factory is the company that make the specific Titanium needle.? Ryan | ||
| Blake |
DJ, Are you talking about the old sportster NC65 needle? | ||
| Djkaplan |
The titanium needle I used is one that came in a kit from a company called "Factory" as Ryan indicated. I didn't measure the diameters along it's length, but it is visually slimmer than the stock needle toward the tip. The Ti needle is also adjustable for height. I figured I'd have to fatten the 42, but I wanted to see what difference just the needle and readjustment of the mixture screw would make. I was please with the results so I stopped there. My lowspeed ping went away and the bike doesn't need the long warm-up anymore. I may experiment with the stock needle and a larger pilot if I ever get access to a dyno. Just for reference, I've got a Forcewinder (with the vent mod) and a V&H. Any comments about the drilling out the slide and what I could expect? My lowspeed throttle response is excellent now, I was actually thinking about improving the midrange. | ||
| Henrik |
AFAIK; drilling the slide should make it raise quicker when the throttle is opened up. Can't remember enough of the appropriate physics to explain it correctly Henrik | ||
| Sarodude |
Factory jet kits by Factory Pro at Sudco -Saro | ||
| X1glider |
Djkaplan, as per Henrik, the slide will raise quicker because the slide is being lightened. I did this once on a CV40 on a big twin Evo but had drivability problems. The difference in pressure from either side of the slide is what raises the slide. If the slide rises to quickly, it could rise higher than intended (like an electric spike voltage) before it settles where it is supposed to be. It might even stay too high anyway messing up the AF ratio. Also, when riding over rough road, violently throwing it around corners or when putting the front wheel down after a wheelie, the lighter slide will bounce up and down, causing a surge or or drag in acceleration, which could possibly cause a loss of control. On the slower revving big twin I didn't see a performance gain, just drivablity issues. Never owned a carbed Buell, so I can't say if it's worth it. | ||
| Rick_A |
I though it raised quicker because it allowed a higher rate of flow to the low pressure diaphragm area. I can't see the removal of that little material making a big difference in weight. | ||
| Blake |
What Rick said. | ||
| Seanwells |
Hi All, Thanks to all of your great input I haven't had to post a question in the two years I have been checking this board. However, I finally find myself stymied: I have a 2000 M2 with the usual little mods (Supertrapp, Kuryakyn Hypercharger w/K&N, rejet carb) and I am trying to dial in the carb for more low end power. When I originally installed the supertrapp I used all 15 disks. At that time the main jet was a 200 and pilot was 48. The headers started to blue up immediately. I ended up pulling all the disks from the trapp because I liked it louder and the bluing slowly dissipated (over a 12 month period). I tried dropping to a 45 pilot and 190 main recently and didn't feel like I gained any power- so I tried putting the disks back into the muffler- also seemed like no gain. To make a long story even longer, I reverted to my 48 pilot and 200 main with NOKK needle shimmed .01. The bike runs great but the headers are bluing again now that the disks are back in the muffler. I don't understand the bluing as I thought it indicated too lean of a mixture (and I know I have got to be way on the rich side- I am at about 60' elevation). Any input much appreciated- sorry for the long post. -sean | ||
| Rick_A |
My bike has a 'Trapp and a race header. I've found that tuning the carb for the best low end snap leaves the jetting too lean for stop and go traffic (at least here in FL). Less disks should give you noticeably more low end grunt if it's jetted correctly. Throw it on a dyno if you have any doubts...otherwise, unless you have a lot of experience...tuning by feel can really be hit or miss...and more often miss! Reading spark plugs can be a decent general indication of your mixture, too...but they must be read after riding the bike in the range you want to check. |
