| Author | Message | ||
     Bads1 |
I just put a pro series pipe on my bike when I went for gaskets they told me to use the Screaming Eagle flat gaskets because they are less constrictive then the tapered Buell ones.Anyone that has a Pro series header,what did you use for gaskets.Should I take the flat ones out or should I keep them in ?????? | ||
| Dave |
part number 65324-83A  I had no luck with the Screamin Chicken ones. DAve | ||
| Bads1 |
Dave tell me more am I destined for trouble with these flat ones in??? | ||
| Dave |
Before I put my Buell race header on my S3 (in the parking lot of billeting on Keesler AFB) I went to the local HD dealer and picked up the Screamin' Eagle ones. They were nothing but a wire mesh if I remember. They didn't work and I just reinstalled the original Buell ones until I could get to Pensacola. There just is no material there with the SE for the header to head seal. (Shuddap V2Win...I know you'll jump on that one) The Buell ones have substance to em...maybe asbestos or some other hazardous material. DAve | ||
| Bads1 |
It seems like it has a slight exhaust leak but I can't feel it(when its cold) and I don't see any blow by. | ||
| Dave |
It'll get worse with heat cycles.... I've always heard an exhaust leak before I felt one. Plus I got tired of burning the tips of my fingers...  DAve | ||
| Bads1 |
Well I guess I'll have to go get some new gaskets then.Any secrets to getting a good seal???? Thanks again for the advise and seeing your from Ill. are you coming down for the Buell 20th, but you gotta bring that awesome S1. | ||
| Dave |
Just finger tight and wiggle 'em then torque 'em to 6-8 ft/lbs (pretty damn light actually). Some have a specific method/procedure of tightening the header and muffler. I just try and get it all finger, then snugged, then torqued. I use loctite on the header nuts and it seems to keep 'em in place. I dunno if my arse could make it to the 20th on my S1W even with a Corbin!  hehe DAve | ||
| Bads1 |
Ahhh come on NewfieBuell is coming all the way from New Foundland and he's doing it on a S1.But if not are you going to try to make it??? | ||
| V2win |
Let me get this straight. You spend mega bucks for a Buell race exhaust system, then install the wrong gaskets, (those in the pic), and then ride down the road happy as a lark. Guess what. When you use anything but the thin flat gasket, it bulges out when you tighten the header down to the head. Right where you need a good smooth exhaust port, you have this stainless/graphite hunk of a donut in the way. Does not make since to me. 1) Use the right gasket,usually put up with a small exhaust leak, and get max hp from the engine. 2) Modify the inlet of the Buell race pipe as shown in one of the old Battle 2Win mags so you can use the tapered gaskets without making them bulge out in the port. 3)Maybe try some of the after market gaskets. There are several that might seal and not bulge out. I did but never could get a good seal. Remember, each one of those Buell race pipes is just a little bit different from the other. I have had several and none were identical. They were made by hand on a jig. Each fit a little different. Some would clear my Frontier Services air cleaner and some would not. Some would seal up for a while and some would leak right away. Its no big deal if you have a slight exhaust leak on a race bike. But on street bike, I just hate to ride all day with a tick, tick, tick, chirp, chirp. | ||
| Bads1 |
V2win I am using the flat gaskets but I'm getting just alittle and I mean a little leak in the front header tube the rear is nice and tight sealed | ||
| V2win |
Bad, If you use the "correct" gaskets, you will probably have a small leak. Either on the front or on the rear. DAve is the one I was referring to about using the "wrong" gasket on his bike. I just love giving him shet. | ||
| Bads1 |
Just wondering if maybe that was infact normal. I'm the only one in are club (Uke's) that is running this set up.But its something I don't really hear while riding it just when idling or revving it alittle at a stand still. | ||
| Dave |
1. Use the Buell tapered ones, torque to specs and live happily ever after. 2. Use the tapered ones and muscle 'em down past toque spec till they mushroom and likely disturbing optimum exhaust flow. Then once they get crunched enough you'll have metal to metal contact and possibly break head studs, develop exhaust leaks, and have a problem with header nuts not staying tight. 3. Possibly fight with the SE ones, suffer from exhaust leaks, tighten the header nuts till a stud breaks, compress the SE mesh until you have metal to metal contact and possibly break studs or suffer from the 'my header nuts won't stay tight syndrome'. 4. Go with the SE ones and they work fine, exhaust stays snug, and flow is optimized. (Wait...this was a dream I had when I tried to use the SEs) JOhn's on the money with the header fit issues. They don't both fit nice and neat in to the head at the same time. I think of the header fit to the head much like a ball and socket joint. The fuller, tapered exhaust gasket compliments the ball and socket joint allowing a small angle difference of each header port. The SEs don't do it and if they do, they don't do it for long and heat cycles shortens that more. Maybe on the race track for a few hours they behave good enough.... I think of the Buell header gasket much like a car's manifold donut gasket. It needs to be thick because it's coupled with a collar that allows the exhaust pipe to be fit at different angles. Of course...this is just my thoughts and I may be wrong. In all seriousness...V2Win is a damn smart cookie. DAve | ||
| Bads1 |
I put the system on just before winter storage so I really only have maybe 70 miles on the pipe. Should I maybe give it some time to seat aliitle. | ||
| Rick_A |
I would think that with the Buell race header the Buell tapered gasket is the one to use; tapered mandrel bent surface on a tapered gasket surface. Why go with a flat gasket?? | ||
| S2carl |
Also remember to retorque the header bolts after at least the first 3-4 heat cycles. I was suprised how loose things got after the initial install. Carl | ||
| Tripper |
The flat ones suck. You want your bike to pop on decel and have people look at ya funny? | ||
| V2win |
If I can find the article in the old Battle 2Win, on how to modify the race pipe, I will scan and post it tonight. | ||
| Bads1 |
That would be great V2win!!!! | ||
| Anonymous |
If the header was built properly the SE's would work fine. Unfortunately the tubes do not fit flat on to the ports and w/o the extra bulge of the stock one there will be leaks. | ||
| V2win |
Bad, I sent you a large copy of this via email.  | ||
| Bads1 |
V2win thanks for the email that artical I seem to remember.Is this what you have done your pipe to get it to seal???Man spend that kind of money to cut it to fix it I can't see doing that.I'm just looking for the best option for gaskets and whats working for them. | ||
| Rookie |
Ok. I just installed the race kit on my M2, incredible difference but I'm having that pesky front exhaust leak too. I can deal with the annoying noises that accompany it but has anyone found another fix besides cutting the tip off of my header or using the wrong gasket? | ||
| V2win |
The Buell race header leaks some. There is no way around it. No flange on the end means leaks. I have tried several different gaskets. All leaked sooner or later. | ||
| Rookie |
Oh well, everything can't always be perfect. | ||
| 99x1 |
There is no nearby Buell dealer, but the local HD shop will order Buell parts for me - if I have a part number. The exhaust seal gasket at the head is leaking on my '99 X1 - is the part number from this post (seal picture) the correct gasket? The knowledge vault also has discussion about tapered vs flat vs Screaming Eagle gaskets - is this still the best solution? TIA! | ||
| Tripper |
The part number may have changed 3 times, but a good parts man can trace it throught he Buell/HD systems. The tapered ones work best and do not get into the airflow. |
