| Author | Message | ||
     Ap_sand |
I've got a 2002 M2 with the original tires. They are starting to show cracks at the bottom of the tread and a line across the tire where the tread overlaps. I've replace the rear with a Road Attack but would like to know how you guys jack up the front end of a tuber to remove the front? On a different but related subject. With about 500 miles on it, the Road Attack on the rear doesn't seem to stick as well as the old original tire on the front! Rolling into a steady state turn, it feels like it's slowly "oozing" out. Start rolling on the gas and it goes out more. The original rear had a more abrupt release, but seemed to stick better. Anyone else experience this? | ||
| Bomber |
field expeidant front wheel removal: get to jack stands (or reasonable replacement), and a length of metal rod (hardwarestore) that'll fit through the rear axle -- viola! rear stand. then, you got choices -- stout rope and pulley through the rafters, or a small hydraulic or scissor jack under the engine (do NOT jack on the muffler -- there's room to get a 2 X 4 between the muffler and rear shock) then just follow the manual on front wheel R&R no direct experience with the contis, sorry | ||
| Ap_sand |
Thanks Bomber! I was concerned about putting a jacking/support load on the engine. Guess that's how I'll go. It will be interesting to see if having the matching front will mask the difference in grip levels. | ||
| Bomber |
you only have to raise the front wheel a skosh, AB -- just take it easy and all will be well ;-} | ||
| Jackbequick |
Here is how I did mine.  That's a piece of old shovel handle cut to length to fit up against and lift under that triangular steel plate behind the steering head. You want to keep it as vertical as possible or it will want to push or pull the bike off its stand. I've used this with both jack stands as Bomber describes and the Centerstand as seen in this photo. A Centerstand handle will get *very* light with the front wheel removed so I now put the floor jack over the handle to keep it from "uncenterstanding" itself while I work. Jack | ||
| Djkaplan |
The real trick to getting your front wheel off is getting the caliper off. Take my advice... tape the front wheel up so you don't scratch it wiggling the caliper out. | ||
| Jackbequick |
I fooled around with the caliper for 30 minutes and then wound up taking the rotor off to get enough clearance. I used the same method putting the caliper back. And renewed the Loctite on the rotor screws of course. Jack | ||
| Road_thing |
It's easier to just pull the pads first... | ||
| Jackbequick |
I had the pads out. And I made sure the pistons were not out far enough to limit movement on the caliper. And I turned to wheel and rotor to several positions trying to find a spot where an opening in the rotor combined to give the me additional 1/16" or so of clearance I needed. I've got the stock M2 painted wheels if that makes a difference. It looked like grinding a small spot on the caliper casting would let it clear in the future but I decided not to do that. The next time it might fall off into my hand, who knows. Jack | ||
| Reepicheep |
Aint that the truth Jack. On my M2, I had that thing turned 7 ways to sunday, and it would not come out. I probably tried for 20 minutes. I fixed it by going in and having lunch. When I came back out, I tried again, and it slipped out in 5 minutes. I still have no idea what I did. | ||
| Bomber |
there's a Majik Spot on the wheel's rotation that will allow the caliper to be removed "fairly" easily -- seems to lurk near the "spokes" of the disk carrier I took a very coarse file and relieved the metal on the back of the caliper to make future R&R much easier -- took about 5 minutes, and has saved several hours | ||
| Ap_sand |
Wow guys. Thanks for the "heads up" on the caliper. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Amen on the thanks! I hate it when the SM makes you feel stupid. I think Bomber's majik spot was where mine jammed solidly needing about another .003" of clearance. Accumulated tolerances won out. I noticed that when I put the rotor back on the SM had some mumbo jumbo about how the holes in rotor were supposed to be aligned in a specific way relative to the spokes in the wheel but looking at it made my head hurt. I tried to do what I thought it said and everything works okay. I thought about it later and wondered if rotor/spoke relationship might be a factor in removing the caliper assembly. I had not marked the rotor when I took off so it might be different now. If it goes easier next time I'll tell myself that the rotor was not on right. Jack | ||
| Djkaplan |
The spokes of the rotor carrier are supposed to line up with the spokes of the wheel. Why? I couldn't tell you, but it does look nice when they line up. It looks like you have yours installed correctly. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Thanks Daniel, In putting the rotor back, it seemed like one way put it the way it is now and the other way put almost almost but not quite as well aligned with the other edge of the spoke. So I went with that. I'm not sure when I pull the caliper again, but if the caliper comes off easily I'll be surprised but happy. Jack | ||
| Jimidan |
As far as jacking the front end of the bike up to remove the wheel, etc., nothing beats a good old Pit Bull lift. Note: in order to use this front end lift, the rear of the bike must be supported with a swingarm lift. I have a Lockhart Phillips rear lift. The good news is that once the bike is up on both of these lifts, it is at a good level to work on lots of things. I also have a Harbor Freight engine boom crane...best $150 I have spent lately. With the combination of these three lifts, you can do anything to the bike. Stability is the key word here...motorcycles are heavy and to put them up in the air without having a very stable platform can be disastrous. jimidan (Message edited by jimidan on May 03, 2006) |
