| Author |
Message |
    
Buellistic
| | Posted on Friday, March 24, 2006 - 01:33 pm: | 
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Gussy:
"NO", but your PRIMARY CHAIN should have been already adjusted to 3/4 inch on the
tight spot, cold !!!
YOU HAVE E-MAIL !!! |
Silas_clone
| | Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 10:16 am: |
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Tried the primary at factory spec, went back to 3/4". Three quarters seems way better, no noise, shifts better etc.[Seems like ANYTHING Lafayette says is worth doing].
Took all the tid-bits of the above thread and put it on paper, stuck it in my manual for future reference.
Here it is:
Primary chain adjustment [done cold]
-Get rear wheel off the ground
-Pull spark plugs
-Put tranny in 5th
-Take a 4” length of duct tape and transfer a 2” long scale in 1/8” gradients with an ink pen [I think this is easy]
-Remove primary inspection cover
-Rotate the rear wheel to rotate the primary chain and “feel” the up and down movement of the chain with your finger until you find the tight spot
-Clean off the chain oil and mark the chain side plate with a florescent magic marker [I used red and it's still there after a year] at the tight spot
-Tape the scale across the inspection hole [up and down]
-Using a [I happened to have had a 3/8” wooden dowel laying around the garage, the dowel is better than fat fingers, I guess a screw driver is good too] wooden dowel, press down on the chain and mark the scale at the chain’s lowest point [I used the rivet as the reference point on the chain]
-Mark the low spot on the scale with a sharpie, then measure up on the scale ¾” and mark the scale there too
-Using the wooden dowel, press down and then lift up on the chain to see if it has ¾” of slack up and down, using the reference point to make sure it hits both marks on the scale
-Adjust the primary chain tensioner until the chain has ¾” slack at the tightest point
-Using the rear wheel, rotate the chain a few plates at a time and check slack [If you find a tighter spot, you should probably mark it] adjust any spot that is too tight
I tried the "starter button" method of rotating the chain but could not tell how far the chain was moving.
Don't forget to put the plugs, plug wires etc. back  |
Gotj
| | Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 11:01 am: |
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Silas,
Here are the FSM specs for a 2006 Uly:
3/8 - 1/2" cold
1/4 - 3/8" hot
You mentioned trying factory specs but did not list them. This thread started with the question for a 2005 XB12Scg which would likely have the same specs as my 2006 Uly. It seems there has been a consensus to run 3/4" but this appears to be for posters riding much older models. Has there been a change in the factory specs or have you just found a better "field" spec? |
Silas_clone
| | Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 06:52 pm: |
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The specs are the same as manual specs for my M2.
M1combat sez:
"That 3/4" while cold may work well for a tuber, but too much slack on an XB and you get false neutrals. And only a LITTLE too much slack at that. It'll be hard to put into neutral w/ too little or too much primary fluid as well..."
Lafayette sez:
"..."BUELLschitte", 3/4 inch on tight spot, cold "PERIOD" !!!
Bike up right, clutch cover off, fluid in transmission when correct will just touch the bottom of SPRING,diaphragm !!!
DO NOT PU#%Y foot with the shift lever, just shift !!!
Having trouble getting in to NEUTRAL, adjust your clutch correctly !!!..."
So you gotta do more research. |
Gschuette
| | Posted on Friday, January 18, 2008 - 09:22 pm: |
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Just out of curiosity, could you drain the primary and take the entire cover off? I am not out looking at the bike so I am not sure if something is in the way. I guess you would have to replace the entire primary seal. I was going to do this tomorrow and I had the idea so I just figured I would ask. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Friday, January 18, 2008 - 09:29 pm: |
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Nope, the tensioner is in the cover, not the case. So when you have the cover off, it's ***really*** loose
Though I suppose you could try and mark the tight spot that way... though its easier to just do it through the inspection cover. |
Gschuette
| | Posted on Saturday, January 19, 2008 - 02:42 am: |
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Good point. I forgot that the tensioner was in the case. |
Ericz
| | Posted on Monday, January 21, 2008 - 07:36 pm: |
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I see quite a few have said they mark the chain at the tight spot. This will not maintain after the engine rotates just a couple of times. The tight spot is caused by any out of round in the clutch sprocket and the chain links do not directly correlate with the teeth on the clutch sprocket.
You need to check for the tight spot every time!! |
Jackbequick
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 - 09:25 pm: |
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Eric,
Speaking from experience, it stays in the same spot. I now it sounds unlikely but go ahead and try it. It works and saves time.
Jack |
Sath
| | Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 09:47 am: |
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Hey guys, is there any way to check the tension with out pulling the plugs? |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 01:35 pm: |
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I don't think the sprockets wear, I think the chain stretches. Which means that when the stretched section is between the two sprockets, it is long. But when the stretched section is pulled on the sprocket, the tooth spacing now determines the chain length, and it suddenly "gets short" again.
So the slack spot should stay the same so long as the stretched part stays at the same place, which is probably true. |
Spike
| | Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 01:36 pm: |
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Sath,
I normally check mine without pulling the plugs, it's just harder to turn the engine over by hand with the rear wheel. The rest of the method is the same. |
Gotj
| | Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 07:28 pm: |
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I believe the tight spots are caused by the sprockets being slightly out of round and/or off center. Therefore, the tight spot will change relative to a specific link of chain. That is also the reason to hunt for the tightest spot because you need to get both sprockets at their "longest". |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 07:32 pm: |
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Easy to test.
My tight spot didn't move, either on the XB or the M2. |
Bombardier
| | Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 07:43 pm: |
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Drain the oil.
Pull the cover.
Remove the chain.
Use a dial gauge on the outside edge of each of the sprockets.
Measure the spot that is closest to the outside on each of the sprockets.
This is the tightest spot.
Mark the sprockets at this point.
Reinstall the chain.
Install the cover.
Adjust at this point for perfect chain tension for the tightest spot.
Refill the oil.
Your done. |
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