| Author | Message | ||
     Kahuna |
Coop, did you have the problem all the time? Or, only when the bike was at operating temprature? I have the same problem, and have read in earlier posts a similar one that was solved by replacing the intake seals. | ||
| Coop |
Kahuna, I only had the problem when the engine was hot, it didnt do it when it was cold, I took the bike out for another couple hours today and its fine now, whatever they did seems to be working, he said that I didnt have a intake leak, although an intake leak would have caused a similar problem. | ||
| Rick_A |
My bike is getting rediculously cold blooded. It refuses to warm up in the morning even with the enrichener pulled out for well over 5 mins AND running with the enrichener half out for MILES...this is in about 50 degree weather. It coughs and surges and runs embarrasingly bad at lower revs. Later in the day when it's warmer everything seems fine...or at least a lot better. Revving past 4000 RPM it runs beautifully. It seemed to run best when I had a V&H on it. I went with a Trapp and it was pretty good until I put more disks on 'er. The symptoms seem to exclude an intake leak because it seems to run better at high rpms and under load to some extent. I checked the plugs and the front plug is light brown and the rear is a slightly darker hue. Any ideas? I'll be doin' my 5000mi soon, so I'll be ready to tear things apart. | ||
| Blake |
Rick, An intake leak affects low rpm low load running. You most likely have an intake leak. When the throttle is almost closed the vaccuum produced by the intake stroke is powerful enough to suck a significant amount of air through a small leak in the manifold seal(s) a LOT of air percentage wise compared to the total charge being passed by the intake. Once the throttle opens the vaccuum drops the amount of air being passed by the intake and combined with fuel increases a bunch. Less vaccuum, so much Less air is drawn through the leak and it is an even MUCH smaller percentage of the total intake charge. So at high revs or under load an intake leak is not so much of a problem. Good thing, or an intake leak would lead to certain serious problems, like a holed piston. | ||
| Rick_A |
Could the battery be a culprit as well? It barely starts on cooler days now. It could really be a multitude of things. I'll be checking out everything. | ||
| Blake |
No, the battery would not affect your carburetion. You have an intake leak. I had one once. Trust me on this.  | ||
| Rick_A |
Well, I read somewhere's that a dead or dying battery could adversely affect the ignition. I don't know. I bought the intake seals last week anyways. We'll see. I need my low end snappiness back.  | ||
| Uwgriz |
I have a 2002 S3T and have recently exploded my airbox in a crash on turn 3 at Road America. I had been thinking about putting a different intake on before I killed it and now I have just sealed the deal. It sounds like most people are pretty happy with the Forcewinder intake so I think I'll going to go that route. My question is this: Do I need to add a power commander or race chip in order to make the bike run right? I know it would run better, and I plan to add a chip in the future, I just didn't know if I need to do it right away. Also, I plant to add a V&H exhaust, but again, not right now. Does anyone know what kind of problems I could be causing myself? | ||
| Danlofthedeser |
Got a 02M2L. The thing stack fired since I bought it. Dealer says they won't rejet but told me the jets to use. I think I'm going to put in a Yost Power Tube recalabration kit. Does anyone have experience with this kit? I was looking at the forcewinder intake kit & keep hearing of the problems you people keep having with it. It seems the problem is the vent to the float chanber. Couldn't you use JB weld to fill the passage into the air stream & redrill it & install a tiny external filter. This should give you nutral air to the float chanber. Another point that was brought up was rain. Has anyone tried using the Buell air filter kit from the Buell parts accessary catalog? The biggest problem I see with this is that it looks like a Sportster air filter. Best wishes Dan'l | ||
| Leeaw |
Dan, There is info here about what to do, and I followed it instead of the expensive Dynojet kits. It is available http://www.americanthunderbike.com/pages/tech_tips.html under the Carb Tuning section. It will cost you about $15 and works great. I think the Yost along with the effort of modification is not worth it. As for the Forcewinder, I love it. I did not get the Buell piece because it would hit my knee. I use the sock on the Force at all times, and it looks and sounds great. Add a Buell/Supertrapp Pro pipe, which I just changed to from a V&H, and you will be all smiles.  | ||
| Blake |
The issue with the newer Force intakes is that the small machined cavity for the float bowl vent needs to be enlarged to maintain proper communication with the float bowl. The float bowl needs to be vented to the interior of hte intake to allow the carb to properly adjust for vacuum effects. Venting the float bowl to atmosphere would cause your carberation to become more over-rich for large throttle openings and high engine speeds. | ||
| Buellgrrrl |
Stack fires? Gee, I thought you had to spend a couple million on a new GE locomotive to find a machine that will do such tricks! Is the flame coming out the inlet or exhaust tracks? I used to get distressed about the retirement of those loveable smoking and clanking Alco locomotives, but with GE and Buell one upping Alco with pyrotechnics, the future looks even more entertaining... can you imagine these things when they're twenty years old? | ||
| Kinger |
Recently bought a Carbon Fiber Race Air Cleaner for my '00 S3T. Any hints or recommendations before I start installing this? Thanks. | ||
| Bonzo |
I've got the Carbon Fiber Race Air Cleaner on my 98 M2. It rains a lot over here (Holland) and it was constantly misfiring in heavy rain. The cause of the trouble was the back plate flexing and breaking the seal with the K & N filter. I cured this by putting gasket cement between the back plate and the filter.(a thick bit of rubber would probably also have cured it, but I didn't have any). I think it flexes because it is only fixed at one end and is relatively thin - but I suppose it would be pointless to have a carbon fibre cover on a very heavy backplate! | ||
| Awprior |
Please bear with me, my first shot at uploading the pics. This is the new air cleaner, all hand made. K&N filter, just got done putting on the catch can, I'll try to get a few pics of that tomorrow.  | ||
| Suzypoozie |
has anybody heard of a gel that you can put on the underside of your heat shield? I heard BMW made such a product but cannot find it. My leg burns off from the heat. Any suggestions? | ||
| Blake |
Suzy, I don't know about the gel thing. Try loose fitting pants? | ||
| Ocbueller |
Lose the heat shield, your thigh will thank you. SteveH | ||
| Henrik |
IIRC BMW uses a thin, aluminum covered, stick-on insulation for their bodywork. Header coating is supposed to help as well - but it's a pricier option. Henrik | ||
| Kinger |
In the process of adding the race air cleaner to my '00 S3T. I ran into a few set backs but a trip to the hardware store today should solve that. Now to my questions: In the knowledge vault I have read in a few spots where people routed there breather tube to the rear of the bike. Is the hose being routed to the rear the one that comes off the tee that the front and rear breather bolts are connected too? What are the advantages and or reasons for doing this? I have to buy some fuel hose at the store today, and if this is a good idea I want to do it now. | ||
| Petel |
Kinger; Go back to "The Knowledge Vault" and look under "Engine Breathers". The whole topic is covered there in a lot of detail. HTH. Petel. 02 M2. | ||
| S1lightning |
Hello Fellow Buellers, I have a question that involves stupidity in itself? Why is it when I ACCIDENTLY come down HARD from a wheelie, that my bike some times hesitates and kicks spudders and sometimes flat out dies until it cools down, or if I apply full choke and stomp on it it will come back also, but very hesitantly??? 1998 S-1, carb, forcewinder, jets, hi-out muffler. | ||
| Ara |
I'm going to offer a blind guess here. The shock from the impact makes the carb slide do something that the motor doesn't like??? | ||
| Blake |
Ara, That's a darn good point. Or similarly maybe the float is getting buggered? | ||
| Ksbuell |
Think I have an air leak at the intake maniflold. Was thinking about purchasing the special tool from american sportbike for removing the manifold. My question is their a tool in my box that I could modify to work. Or is the $15.00 ASB asking worth it? | ||
| Blake |
Maybe. Yes. | ||
| Westy01 |
I had my clutch cable snap on me last week (on the freeway no less, not fun). After I brought it in to be repaired at the dealer the bike no longer idles with the choke all the way in. I am hoping that they just messed with my idle screw. Any other thoughts? Can someone describe where the idle screw is for me so that I can check it? Thanks Matt | ||
| Blake |
Cannot see your profile. Don't know what bike you have. Would like to help. Need more information. | ||
| Westy01 |
Blake - I have a 97 M2 - do you need to know anything else? Matt | ||
| Blake |
The hand idle adjuster is zip tied to the frame between the airbox and fuel tank on the right side of your bike. It's a little black plastic knob. Do you have an owner's manual? |
