| Author | Message | ||
     Vr1203 |
I'm thinking I'll be needing a better clutch. How well do those lock up clutches work? Has anyone had experience with them? Or should I just get Barnett plates? I need to have the bike shift very good but without clutch slipage. I also do not want to break stuff downstream.  | ||
| Buellistic |
IMO there is nothing wrong with the stock factory clutch as long as you do this "PRODUCT IMPEOVEMENT" !!! Take the SPRING PLATE PN 37977-90 out and throw it away !!! Replace it with two STEEL PLATE's PN 37913-90 and one FRICTION PLATE PN 37911-90 !!! THIS MAKES FOR A BETTER LONG LASTING CLUTCH !!! Try this before spending the BIG $$$.$$ on an after market clutch !!! | ||
| Vr1203 |
Hi, Will the "product improvement" you mention help reduce slippage? I think I'm having slippage under boost, the transmission is shifting nicely and I do not want something that will affect it adversely. | ||
| Buellistic |
YOU NEED A STRONGER "SPRING,diaphragm" too !!! "YES" it will help and make for a better longerr lasting clutch ... Do the "PRODUCT IMPROVEMENT" before you buy the SPRING,diaphragm !!! Rivera Engineering www.riveraengineering.com (562) 907-2600 Part Number PC-011-C or the strongest they have now !!! (Message edited by buellistic on February 20, 2006) | ||
| Trippivot |
get the double thick steel plate out of there and install two more fiber plates and an extra steel plate. called a performance upgrade but gives a better feel when engaging at excited rpm's. there are other diaphram clutch springs available but the 15% stronger plate is good enough for 100 hp + engines the super barnett spring is too much way too stiff on the lever, popeye couldnt get it through traffic | ||
| Jeffb |
I am installing Alto plates in my land speed bike. They have a life time replacement warranty. Buell race teams use them and I guess they live. I was burning up plates even with the heavy spring and extra plate added. I guess I will find out if the Alto plates work this spring. The have friction material on every plate, but only on one side. I guess this helps disapate heat. jeff | ||
| Rocketman |
I've been through many friction plates over the years. When I was drag racing the S1W it would burn out those kevlar plates so quick it was unreal. What I didn't know then is kevlar plates don't like synthetic oils. I don't drag race the S1W these days but wearing out all those plates eventually got me to exactly what LaFayette (Buellistic) recommends. Thus far I have no complaints or problems and I also find the Barnett extra strength spring plate very manageable. It's really important to get the clutch adjustment right. The manual recommends turning out the adjuster screw 1/4 of a turn from tight. I went 1/2 turn but you need to keep doing it until you get a feel for the adjustment. Assuming you've got the cable located and routed correctly and you've got the cable adjustment right, there's one more thing you can do that works dividends for your clutch feel. Oil the cable with a light oil and make sure the oil penetrates the cable so much it is soaked all along its length inside the outer cable. You might want to do this by spending a long time with the cable held vertical in a vice whilst you keep administering oil and working the inner cable. Or you could just pressure feed the oil into the cable but don't use too high a pressure when doing so. Rocket | ||
| Slc4me |
I use the barnett scorpion. One bike has a lock up head the other doesn't. No problems yet works great adjustable springs | ||
| Hutch |
Energy one is the best clutch for street with a few hp approvments as for lock up clutch. the lock up head works off the wheel speed ,the faster the wheels go the harder the weight spin out and the more clamping force is applied. I have run a bandit machine lock up clutch on a drag bike for a few years. The lock up clutch takes a lot of rd to make work right and you go through a lot of plats and diff springs to get the right amount of slippage on the launch. good luck . |
