| Author | Message | ||
     Kdraw1 |
You the man Blake! Thanks, Kevin | ||
| Blake |
Here's another idea. Remove the stock speedo, install a bicycle type cyclometer and mount a tach in the stock dash. | ||
| Smadd |
Replaced the stock bulb with an 80/100 today. Best $12.50 I ever spent on the Buell! What a difference! At *last* I can see where I'm going! I don't know why I didn't get one sooner. | ||
| Blake |
Maybe if you would try keeping the front wheel earthbound you might be able to see ahead of you even better.  | ||
| Smadd |
But I have one of those under-frame lights for nose-up riding. It's a landing light from a 747. I needed more light for the slight amount of time I spend on two wheels. ;-) On a serious note, since I replaced my steering bearings and put on new tires, I'm really enjoying good two-wheel handling again. I'm trying my best to remain earth-bound. Steve | ||
| Kdraw1 |
You know Blake, I never thought about that. I've read about the cyclometers and thought to myself "I wonder if they sell a cyclometer with a tach on it?" Being a mountain biker at times I am aware of the stupidity of this thought. But now, I think this may be the way to go. I've checked around at some of the salvage yards on line and haven't found anything. Again Blake- U R D MAN!!! Kevin | ||
| Blake |
Kevin, Keep an eye on eBay, and the BadWeB Classifieds. Every now and then a used tach will show up for sale. I've thought about the cyclometer and tach swap scenario myself. | ||
| Totway |
Kdrawl, get a Sigma BC700 or BC900 they work well and will register in excess of 150mph. About $30.00 at most bike stores. Had one on my GSXR worked good, also has a max speed function ...lots of fun. Tim | ||
| Henrik |
This little gadget might be something to consider, if you are going to design and construct your own dash set-up. The "lite" and "2" versions are very popular with the track crowd. You could also get an SPA tack. Supposedly great quality, and you can get a version with speed rather than temperature display. Henrik | ||
| Snowdave |
Anyone know how to modify a 2001 M2 wiring harness to make it work on a 2000 M2. The ignition box has changed and they added a head temp sensor. I don't see a connector for the vacuum switch attached to the carb. Also, there now appear to be new connectors for the dash and the rear lights. I have a 2001 wiring diagram on the way, but I am impatient as this is keeping my new racebike off of the road. I would need to know exactly which wires and which connections to change. Thanks, Dave | ||
| Snowdave |
Please disregard above post. I just learned that the harness I have is for a Blast! I am trying to get it exchanged, but would still be interested if anyone has any insight on differences between Blast and Cyclone harnesses. Thanks, Dave | ||
| Blake |
Dave, You've finally managed to find a Buell related question that I have no interest in learning the answer to. Wiring harnesses... YECH!!!  | ||
| Road_Thing |
Blake, wait a minute, don't wiring harnesses obey Ohm's Law? Couldn't we have a few equations or something? It's been a few days since you did any ciphering here... r-t | ||
| Snowdave |
I'd be insulted but if I didn't have to play around with harnesses in order to get the bike out on the street, I too would have zero interest. If I have to wait much longer, I might just have to ride without a charging system, lights, signals, speedo, etc. The cops won't be able to catch me until the battery runs dry. J | ||
| Ccryder |
Well I finally got tired of the BORING tail light on my X-3. What do you think about this replacement:  The lights are by Libertek in Canada. They are very bright even in direct sunlight and have the turn signals integrated into 1/2 of the lights. The brake lights also function as running lights. These LED's have a wide viewing angle. I can't wait to see them at night! My next acquistion is the flasher unit from Kisan it's $84.95 but from comments about how obnoxious the flashing is... this will be the frosting on this cake. Take a look here to see how this unit flashes: DecelerationWarning This flash pattern is called a Deceleration Warning. Time2 ride. Neil S. | ||
| Spark |
Hey gang, It's been a while,but I've got a bug about puttin' a tach light on my M2 cause I'm tired a hittin' the rev limeter.Picked up the mini light and mod from Tat,but not much for instructions.Could anyone direct me to any write ups? thnx, spark | ||
| Blake |
Did you ask Tat? | ||
| Dreullofseattle |
Starting 2001 ST3 Fuel injected Turn key, wait till engine light goes off. Start fine. Go for a little skoot, then turn off (to get gas whatever) then Turn key, wait till engine light goes off. Start fine, engage 1st gear, bog and die... Wait for a while, Start fine, engage 1st gear, bog and die... Then Start fine, engage 1st gear, runs fine... Only once or so in a couple days does this happen. ??? Vexxed, terribly vexxed. | ||
| Crw |
Vexxed in Seattle, Sounds like the classic sidestand and/or clutch switch problem. That is the first place to look. Start with the sidestand switch. Unplug it and jumper the connector with a paperclip or short piece of wire. Then just don't forget to raise the stand to avoid embarrassing scraping, falling, etc. | ||
| Spark |
Blake, I haven't asked him yet.I was searching through the archives here,X-1 Files, and at ATC before I give him a call. | ||
| Chucks1w |
Does anyone know where I can get a Bosch headlight lense for my S1, I hate the thought of buying the whole thing for $150.00 from Buell but that's the only way they sell it. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Anyone ever run into a "flakey" tach? My 2K Cyclone with tach update (2K X1 tach) started twitching this morning. It was fine last night but this morning on the way into work the tach needle started jumping around. It seems to happen above about 2800 RPM. When I hit about 3500 RPM the needle is jumping around between 3500 and 6000 RPM. Bike is running fine, speedo works fine. Nothing else seems to be amiss. Any ideas? I'm going to check connectors when I get home and take a look at the wireing diagram. I HATE electrical problems! Brad | ||
| Y2k01x1 |
Legal or not, increasing your visibility to cage drivers has to be a good thing. I want to modify the turn signals on my 2001 X1 so they are ON all the time (all the time when the motor is running, of course) and flash normally when I activate the turn signals. For obvious reasons, I'd like to do this with minimal impact/intrusion on the X1's electrical system. I do not expect this endeavour to be terribly complicated or difficult and I expect that I shall soon be studying the wiring diagrams in the X1's service manual. Thought I'd stop here first for a quick post as I'm sure this has already been done and perhaps someone can steer me in the right direction or at least keep me from wandering too far off in the wrong direction. BTW, after enduring a year-and-a-halfs worth of abuse from friends, acquaintances, and casual observers over those goofy "wagging puppy dog tail" front turn signals on the X1, I swapped them out with a set of X1 rear turn signals with the short stalks (no spacer). The look is much improved with the front signals tighter to the headlight and the wiggle factor much reduced. Cost for parts from dealer was minimal. Just $14.70 + tax. Difficulty? none whatsoever. Time required? I spent about an hour and I'm real slow. Parts breakdown to follow. Someone with tap/die set, lots of time, and appropriately motivated could modify the existing front turn signals to work. I was not so inclined. Y0526.K TURN SIGNAL, LR $6.25 Y0527.K TURN SIGNAL, RR 6.25 B1000.4Z WASHER M10 EXT .15 ea. (need 2) D1000.4FZ NUT M10 THIN JAM .95 ea. (need 2) P.S.-sorry, you can't use the old nuts and washers with the new turn signals. different sizes. Bob | ||
| Xtopherj |
has anyone experienced a situation where the tach starts going crazy, pinging from zero to the peg, and the bike sputtering and popping just before it goes completely dead? this happened to me last night, about 135 miles from home. i pulled off to the side of the interstate to see what the hell was going on and it would idle ok, but wouldn't rev over 1500 rpm. after half a minute at idle it died. there was absolutely no juice in the battery, not even enough to make the oil light come on. i got a jump from the friendly state trooper and i was able to idle to the next exit with an escort. popping and sputtering the whole way with no guages and very dim tail light. three hours later my roomie showed up to give me a lift home. too bad neither of us own a pickup. the bike rescue will go down in the next couple days. if anyone has any idea what could have happened please let me know where to start. thanks, cj | ||
| Ocbueller |
Sounds like you've got a bad voltage regulator(VR) and have drained the battery. If the battery is unable to take a decent recharge, replace it and check voltage at the battery with the motor running. Should read between 13 or 14 or so volts at just above idle speed. If not its likely the VR. SteveH | ||
| Ccryder |
CJ: Odds are like OC says that there is something electrical going on. When my X-1's stator went south she would only run at idle position or WFO and then finally died and would not start. First off at 28,000 miles I suspected the battery. After a fresh battery she fired right up but I wondered what was really going on. I checked the VR and stator output. VR was ok but stator was barely putting out (sounds like some fem... oh never mind) and that was the problem. An X-1, or for that matter any Buell that will only run at idle or WFO is a handfull. Let me know if you need the trouble shooting guides if you don't have the SM. Later Neil S. | ||
| Blake |
Xtopherj, It could be the battery, stator, or voltage regulator, or it could be a short or broken cable somewhere. If diagnosis of electrical systems is foreign to you, it is probably best to have your dealer diagnose your electrical system. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
All, I'm going to kill two birds with one throw with this one. Xtopherj, If you look back a couple of posts you will see I have (had) a very simular problem. Turns out mine was cause by a slightly loose connection under the tank. I unplugged every connector and applied diaelectric grease, plugged every thing back in and all was well. My symptoms were very simular. In fact, I left work early on Friday because I didn't know if I was going to make it home! It killed 3 times but restarted with a bit of muttering. It would cut out above 2K or so. A bit of backfiring, tach needle swinging wildly, etc.. Sooo,, that's one place to check. Second place, Check the power feed off the starter. I had simular problems last summer when the crimp on connector broke. There are 2 wires attached to the positive feed on the starter. The big one is the plus side of the battery. The smaller one is the positive feed to EVERYTHING ELSE on the bike. The crimp on "eye" type connectors are hidden under a rubber boot. I found mine by jiggling the small wire and having it pull out in my hand. I was able to get going again by using a piece of 10 gauge stranded wire stripped at both ends. One end was twisted onto the now loose end of the wire. The other end went to the positive post on the battery. I rode like that for a couple of days until I could find the correct crimp on end. This MIGHT be your problem. Hope it is, it's an easy fix. YMMV Brad | ||
| Blake |
Be careful using dielectric grease on low voltage connections. It is NOT a good conductor and can easily cause as many problems as it can help. | ||
| Bobpaul |
I can't believe that others have had the same problems as me and at the same time! I took a ride from Boston to Deal's Gap last week (missed the Buell meeting by 1 day!). During the trip the tach needle started jumping. It started as just a twitch, but got worse and worse as time went on. At one point it would twitch up to 9000, then even go past that. This would only last for a few seconds at most, during which the engine would miss-fire. Every time I'd stop and look for a loose connection it would run perfectly. Eventually it got so that the speedo needle would dip whenever the tach would jump up. Finally, the bike just quit runnning. All the lights went out. I got the voltmeter out (doesn't everybody carry one?) and started checking. Just then I heard a "dink" noise of the main circuit breaker resetting itself. All the power came back on! I then checked all the battery connections, tried a new circuit breaker (avail from NAPA). Keep in mind I'm hundreds of miles from home at this point. So, I tried to ride it to the next hotel and lucky for me I went past a Harley dealer that was also a Buell dealer! The mechanic dropped what he was doing, listened to all the things I tried. Then started checking stuff. In the end he put a new battery in (after load testing my 2-1/2 year old battery), checked all the connectors for corrosion, and checked all the grounds. The only ground that was just a little loose was the wire on the back of the regulator; it was about a 1/8 turn loose. After that everything was fine all the way home (about 800 miles). So, it was either an intermittant short in the battery or that loose ground on the regulator. BTW- the dealer was H-D Shop of Wytheville, VA, they are just off I-81 & I-77 just north of where I-77 comes in from West Virginia. The Buell tech's name is Brandon. I'd recommend going there! |
