| Author | Message | ||
     Jayb |
Hey guys I just bought a 97 S1 off of ebay about a month ago. Had it shipped from CA to MA. This bike is so awesome. Seat kinda squashes the old nuts a bit..just need to wear a cup I guess! (It has a Force seat..which I think is just a recovered factory seat) Anyway, I have the recalled shock on it (no exposed spring), and was trying to set the compression, preload and rebound to factory settings. Should I use the early can shock preload or the 2001 data at the top of this page? Also the preload and compression, should I use the x1/m2 data at the top of the screen, or the s3/s3t data. I assume the rebound is also set back from full counterclockwise position ? One final question. Front forks make a clicking noise felt threw the bars when I sit on the bike with front brake on (rocking it) The brake carrier makes an aweful lot noise (can move rotor forward and back by hand (how much play should be there?) Buddy of mine said his bikes used to do that (fork clicking, not clucking brake carrier), and it meant it needs a bit more fork fluid in it. (he has currently a 916 duck, and an rc51.) Is there anyway I can check how much fluid, and or and more fluid without ripping the forks apart? Thanks for the help! Jay Boudreau | ||
| Blake |
JayB, "Should I use the early can shock preload or the 2001 data at the top of this page?" Depends on which version shock you have. I'm not sure which is correct, but you should be able to determine which you have. With the shock fully unloaded, measure the distance between the shock eyes. If the distance between shock eyes is more than 16 inches, you have the early Showa. If the distance is less than 16 inches, you have the new '01/'02 Showa shock. Either way, your S1 should use the X1/M2 setup. "I assume the rebound is also set back from full counterclockwise position?" The factory adjustments are specified from the full in (clockwise) condition. "Front forks make a clicking noise felt threw the bars when I sit on the bike with front brake on (rocking it)" This may be the steering head and/or the brakes. Roll the front tire against a wall or curb and try cycling the suspension without the front brake engaged. The noise will likely not express itself. If so, then you know the noise only in the brake.  "The brake carrier makes an aweful lot noise (can move rotor forward and back by hand (how much play should be there?)" That is common for the pre '99 brake rotors. It can be replaced with the newer version. The best advice anyone can give you about your S1W is to get yourself a service manual and all the applicable service bulletins (some on this site, see link in KV "Recalls" topic). | ||
| Toddm2l |
I have a set of X1 forks and trips. If anyone has had experience with installing the X1 front end to an M2 please tell me how this went. Am I wasting my time trying to do this? Also, How much does a rear tire for the M2 run? $177.00 this sounds a little over priced any ideas? Thanks Todd | ||
| Awprior |
www.mawonline.com or discount motorcycle tire. I just got a set of D205s for $215, including shipping. I'm assuming $177 is from a dealership? | ||
| Toddm2l |
Yep, Called back later in the day and talked to someone else, they said, $150. Now, if it was overnight shipping, I might understand, But, I highly doubt it is. They are taking the screw out of my tire and using it on me! Todd | ||
| Djkaplan |
I may have mislead some of you into thinking my 2000 M2 had a front tie-bar installed from the factory; it does not. I was inferring about the middle tie-bar between the cylinders. I just got a good look at a 2002 X1 and noticed the tie-bar at the front engine mount. I figured it couldn't hurt to get one - less than $50 from the dealer. Sorry guys (Thanks for bringing it to my attention Bull). Anyone want to guess why the M2 doesn't have one as original equipment? | ||
| Blake |
Because it doesn't need one? ![:]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) | ||
| Bull |
Your welcome Dj;-) I have done the same thing but I haven´t got the tiebar yet... I tried to get the engine mount and the tiebar from Sweden, England, Germany and even the Netherlands and nobody had them in stock, crap! So now I'm about three weeks from getting mine. I really don´t know if the tiebar will make a difference, but I guess that it wont hurt anyway! Ride safe/ Bull | ||
| Djkaplan |
Blake, I'm pretty sure I won't notice a thing when I install the front tie-bar, but I'm with Bull on this; it couldn't hurt and it looks kinda cool. If I do notice anything, I'll be sure to post it. Does the Firebolt have one of these tie-bars installed on the front engine mount? Bull, Did you check UKBEG for the story they posted on installing an X1 engine mount? It was a pretty good post with pictures and step by step instructions. | ||
| Jayb |
Oaky guys, help me out on this one. I went to adjust rear shock to factory settings on compression and rebound tonight. (been on vac for a couple weeks, so I haven't been riding lately) Anyway, I have the new updated shock on my 97 S1. I cant seem to turn the compression dampening out 2.25 turns though. If I screw it in all the way (clockwise), I can only back it out about 2 turns total...till it wont turn anymore. What the heck is going on? I cant even turn it to the factory setting of 2.25 turns out. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for the help...once again Jay | ||
| Bull |
Dj, I actually got hold of the Service Bulletin B-018 (Aaron was kind enough to e-mail me the document), which pretty much covers my problem. So now I just have to wait for the engine mount... Cheers/ Bull | ||
| Blake |
Are you sure you are adjusting the compression rebound? The compression rebound adjuster is the screw at the rear of the shock. The rebound damping is on the remote reservoir. The factory suggested rebound setting for your S1 is 1.5 turns out from full in. Which shock do you have? Long or short? My M2 has a long one. Good thing too, since the WP race shock I just bought (used) would not work if the Showa were the short version with the revised front mount geometry. | ||
| Jayb |
Hi Blake, yeah I am trying to adjust the compression dampening on the end of the shock. Only turns 2 full turns, thats it. I also noticed that if i have it full soft (all the way out...bout 2 turns) it changes the preload when i sit on it. It looks like I have the long shock, as i measure 16.5" now with compression dampening set to soft (2 turns out..as much as it will go) and 16.75 with it in all the way(compression dampening) I want to set preload tonight, but where should I adjust it from...factory settings (or as close as I can get them, as 2 turns out on the compression is full soft it seems.) or from fully turned in compression and rebound? Rebound seems to be normal, as it was spot on from the previous owner. Doesn't really make sense why I dont have the normal adjustment. Do you know how many turns the compression rebout is supposed to turn out from full hard to full soft? (just trying to see how far I really am off in turns of adjustment) Thanks again! Jay | ||
| Blake |
Jay, Measurement of the shock length to determine its vintage should be performed when you are off the bike and the shock is fully unloaded (retracted). Dampiing cannot affect preload. Preload is simply the amount that the spring is compressed (already loaded = pre-loaded ) with zero load on the shock. I think you are referring to the sag. Sag is measured when you are sitting on the bike in full riding attire and in riding position with feet on the pegs and hands on the grips. It is best to have at least one helper to hold the bike upright and/or to measure the shock. You might be able to do it yourself if you park the bike next to a wall and use a strtegically positioned mirror to view the shock with a scale taped appropriately in place. Use your right elbow or knee held lightly against the wall to carefully balance the bike while maintaining your normal riding position. The difference in your sag measurements is likely due to stiction. Sounds like your shock might have a problem if it has 0.25" of stiction (difference in where the shock stops for rebound versus compression strokes). Did you reverify/duplicate those measurements a 2nd time? The different damping settings are likely affecting where the shock comes to rest after you sit on the bike. Still that's an awful lot of stiction. Not good. | ||
| Henrik |
It's not a bad idea to set the sag with damping set to full soft. That will minimize the effect of sticktion. Sag should be the first thing you set anyway ... Henrik | ||
| Jayb |
Thanks Blake. Yeah something sounds real screwy with my shock. First off I really need to figure out which shock I have. Can I measure this with me off the bike, with rear tire on the ground? or do I have to have the rear tire hanging, (like if I were to lift the rear for a tire change? I am a bit confused, as you say pre-load is with me NOT on the bike, but if I read the service bulletin right, I think it says pre-load is set with rider ON bike. I'll have to double check that. I'll measure the shock tonight, and let you know what I find. Maybe the pre-load is way off or something?? The .250 diffenance was with me on the bike both times. So just so I get you right, I sould measure the shock eye to eye without me on it right? Then I should see either 17 inches for the older can, and 15 or so for the newer, without anyone on the bike?? I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks Jay | ||
| Henrik |
You actually measure 2 "versions" of sag: Static Sag: just the bike, no rider Race Sag: you on the bike in full gear and in riding position. On aftermarket shocks you have the luxury of getting a spring with the correct spring rate - just for you The difference between static and race sag will indicate whether the spring rate is correct. Henrik | ||
| Blake |
Jay, This is a bit confusing. Especially since we are saying that the preload is the length of the shock. It isn't, but it can be set by measuring the length of the shock, which is what the Buell factory procedure is telling us to do. You misunderstood me if you think I said "pre-load is (measured) with (you) NOT on the bike". Spring preload's effect on sag is "measured" with the rider on the bike; however th preload itself can be adjusted with the rider off the bike. What you are doing is adjusting spring preload to achieve the specified sag as indicated by the shocks extended length. Sag is the amount that your shock extends from fully unloaded/retracted to when you and gear are sitting on the bike. The only reason to measure the shock in an unloaded (fully retracted) condition is to determine which version Showa you have, and to understand what the sag really is (sag is actually the difference between unloaded and loaded shock length). You should be able to fully unload the rear shock by placing the bike on its sidestand and lifting the tail (pulling up and to the left as you stand behind the bike) and setting it lightly back down. If you are not sure that the shock is remaining fully retracted/unloaded, you can put a zip tie around the exposed portion of the shock tube (small tube) and while sitting on the bike push the lightly snugged zip tie against the seal where the small tube penetrates the outer (big) can. Dismount and unload the shock as described above. Then look at the zip tie. If there is a gap between the zip tie and the end of the outer can (at the seal), the shock is not completely retracted/unloaded. My '97 M2 has an older/longer version Showa. It also only has two turns of total compression rebound adjustment. I have it set at one full turn out from full in. My rebound is three turns out from full in, and has 4.75 turns of total adjustment. Looks like we need to add another section for the damping settings of the older Showa shocks. | ||
| Vwolf |
Hi Blake I spent a little time with my dealer in Berwyn ILL.Chris.And I am too recieve a new shock for my 2000M2.I have the srp but it leaked at the track and I was driven like a new seadoo...hehehe.My question is if I can continue to enjoy my bike.I am 250lbs.??I also wonder if the new shock I may get is the standard srp.Hope you doing fine.I was working (driving) down I80 Monday and came upon Wind,Fire,Water group of Harley riders that were mainly policeman and fireman headed to NYC and wow there must have been 4 miles of them..they siad they started in Colorado.Very nice people..they waved and gave me the peace sign.. vwolf chicago | ||
| Blake |
VWolf, The new shock will be just like the ones on the 2001 and 2002 Buells, no SRP. The new shock is a big improvement and will be able to accommodate your 250 LBs with no problem. For you, the shock will probably not be *ideal* for the racetrack, but will be just fine for the street and occasional track outing. You will probably find that you will dial the preload all the way to maximum possible setting or very close to it, especially for track days. Make sure they properly ground your voltage regulator when reorienting/remounting it to accommodate the new front shock mount. | ||
| Djkaplan |
New front shock mount? Was I supposed to get a new front shock mount when I got the 2001-2 shock for my 2000 M2? | ||
| Bomber |
DJ . . .. nossir . . .. new front muff mount (often done at the same time, by on-the-ball dealers) relocated the voltage regulator . . . since this part is secured to the frame with fasteners that also hold the shock, the terminology can be confusing | ||
| Doncasto |
Djkaplan: Not to be unnecessarily contrary but . . I did get a new front mount with the new (K1400) shock for my '98 S3T - as well as a new exhaust hanger kit. The older Showas use the original Buell mount, but on my bike the older mount was a no go. YMMV Don | ||
| Ccryder |
Dj: If your stock shock required the SRP, or if the original Showa shock was the early design (with the welded front eye) then the front shock mount needs to be replaced in order to compensate for the shorter shock length of the all cast eyed shock. If this was not done it can damage the shock by trying to extend it too far. Neil S. | ||
| Josh |
Anyone have a 98S1WL manual handy that could tell me how many click the fork adjustments should be? RaceTech says 4and4 but that's assuming their parts. I've searched the archives and can't find it. It ought to go at the top of the page with the rear shock settings if someone has the info. Oh, and the dampning settings that are at the top of the page are for the "new" Showa shock, not the "early" one. Josh | ||
| Djkaplan |
Uh oh, conflicting information. Now I'm really confused. If the new shock is shorter, shouldn't my ride height have been affected (increased)? I'm sure I would have felt the difference immediately. What's the deal? | ||
| Djkaplan |
Oh, and by the way; my front muffler mount was not changed by my NOT-on-the-ball dealer. I even mentioned it when I took the bike in for the shock change (which I was charged $100 for on a 16 month old bike WITH a three year extended warranty). Buell customer service was absolutely useless. | ||
| Josh |
djkaplan, was ths shock bad? or just changed for the look? If the shock wasn't bad, they charge $100. And they must have changed the mount as well. SB-032 is still in effect, you should be able to get the muffler mount covered no problem. I'm gettting one on my new S1WL next week. Dealer and Buell CS confirmed it's covered. You need to get it done as the rubber bushing in the original is not avail. anymore. Josh | ||
| Djkaplan |
The shock was bad. The seals let go all at once and left a puddle of hydraulic fluid under the bike. I was surprised how dark the fluid looked. I'm not sure the dealer's gonna play ball on the revised muffer mount unless I come armed with documentation. I've already requested it once and got screwed. He was real anxious to sell me a new 170/60-17 D207 for $214 though! ($50 more to mount it!) | ||
| Josh |
If the shock was bad, and you had an extended warranty, how did they calculate the cost? Someone has posted a .pdf of SB-032 before uhm... can't find it. I thought it was on Sporttwin.com but I don't see it there either. Josh |
