| Author | Message | ||
     Mike_E |
Ok, my bike has started to run like crap (goes along with everything else this year). After fixing the fuild blowing out of the primary now it hesitates and misses till the red trouble light comes on and then it runs fine. Pulled the code and it is #14, engine temp sensor. I have checked the resistance of the sensor and it's OK, but next the manual says to hook up the breakout box which I do not have to check the ECM (which is the race ECM). Has anyone else had this code set before?? I have another ET sensor but it seems the one in the bike is fine (and with it being in the middle of the head, it seems that it will really be a pain to change.) Anyone have any ideas?? On a good note the tire plug finally seems to be holding fine so I don't have to change that till next year. Mike E | ||
| Jr2x1 |
Mike I had a similar problem bike ran bad but never displayed a code, it took the dealer forever to diagnose because of course it didn't act up for them.Finally while running the bike on the dyno at high rpm they were able to catch the ets going berzerk.they replaced it and all is well. | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Mike What exactly did you do when you fixed the puking problem? I ask because if you played around with the wire harness when rerouting the tranny vent line, you might have put a kink in the E.T. sensor line which is causing it to act up. Also make sure the connection, a cheesy bullet type connection, is secure and making good contact. Use dielectric grease to ensure good conductivity. Also look at the sensor wire and check if it has chafed open by rubbing against the head, if this has happened, it will go to ground and throw an error code. It wouln't hurt to switch sensors, that would be the easiest thing to try first after you check all the wires and connections. Good luck! Let us know what you find. | ||
| Rempss |
A few unbent paper clips stuck into the backside of the ECM connectors (carefully) will work as a "make-do" break out box for voltage readings. Need the manual for the correct colors and positions. Like Jose said check all connections and wiring first. My new standard DDFI question, do you have a Powercommander? Sets many a code for no reason. See rant here - http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/3591.html?1030915660#POST118637 , keep scrolling down to see a product evauluation by me. Seventy+ pages of information I collected from my bike and also various posts I read on the big 3. When does the trouble light come on? Stopped, riding, hot, cold, day, night, full moon? Jeff | ||
| Mike_E |
Ok, a few more bits first there is not a powercommander on the bike. Second the pucking was a bad plug seal on the tranny. I was thinking too that maybe the connector just kind of worked it's way free since it is just a bullet connector. I am going ot start with the sensor (should be here today) and see if that solves the problem or not. I guess the good thing about this is it is giving me a change to change my intake seals while I have everything apart. I will let everyone know what works. Thanks Mike E | ||
| Mike_E |
Favor to ask, can someone with the 2001 X1 service manual tell me how it says to replace the ET sensor. The 2000 manual only explains how to change the side sensor but not the sensor down in the head. I am kind of pluzzed on how to go about this, since I do not want to remove the head. To get the old one out I could cut the wire and use a socket to remove the old one, but that will not help with the new one. Anyone have any ideas? Mike E hoping that his luck might be starting to change | ||
| Bertsdirt |
Mike_E, The service manual (pretty weak removal instructions) does not mention rocker box cover or head removal, but the rocker box cover is removed in the pictures. The head is not though. Caution Note: Do not pull on ET sensor wiring. Excess strain to sensor wiring will cause sensor damage. Removal 1. Remove fuel tank. 2. Unplug 1-place connector [90] above rear cylinder head. 3. See Figure 4-81. Remove rubber boot and sensor from rear cylinder head. Sorry, no scanner. But Figure 4-81 shows the rocker box cover removed, with an extension on the wrench. The socket used (ET sensor socket) has a slot cut in it for the ET wire lead. I'm guessing you'll need to take a scrape socket and cut a channel in it for the wire, else try to rent or buy the official one from a $$$dealer$$$. Let me know if you need install instructions. The main thing to know is tighten the new ET sensor to 10-14 ft-lbs (14-19 NM). Good luck. Kevin | ||
| José_Quiñones |
To remove the fuel tank (this is from the S3 service manual): Leave the bike idling and disconnect the fuel pump connection, until the bike dies. Then hit the starter a few more seconds. You do this to relieve the fuel pressure and get rid of as much gas as you can before you disconnect the fuel line. DIsconnect the fuel line that goes from the bottom of the tank to the fuel filter. Have shop rags/pans ready to soak up any gas that leaks. THen you can go ahead and remove the tank. | ||
| Mike_E |
Kevin, thanks for the info, it looks like I will be making a slot in a socket to create my own ET sensor socket. Also thanks for the torque spec. Mike E | ||
| Mbsween |
Mike E, same exact problem as you on my 2001 x1. Two dealers couldn't find it. Its easy to replace, once you make the slot socket. Remember to purge the fuel pump (its the pump or tank) or you get gas all over the place. BTW when you do this you'll set code 33 , well the one for no fuel pump anyways. The slot socket, I bought a cheap socket at autozone and use a dremel and a cutting wheel. Took about 20 minutes to make. Remember to slot the entire side or it won't work Have a lot of people had these failures? I had 3900 on the bike when it went. Rode for about 2000 miles while the sensor degraded. It took along time to die on my bike, I wish we could see a time stamp with the codes! I've been running fine for 2000+ now. Good luck Matt | ||
| Sidewalk |
The symptoms I am reading sound similar to what my X1 is doing now. It seems to start after it has warmed up some (typically). It will surge and pop through the intake as if it was running lean. No amount of throttle will effect it. I had the throttle railed yesterday when it did it, oops, was in first when she woke up again... But, I am not getting any codes at all. It typically lasts about 30 seconds to a minute, and then goes away not to return for another day. I have been lucky that it hasn't happened on my rides in the hills. I decided not to take a ride yesterday because of that (at work today). It didn't act up on my ride to work today (5 miles), but it has before on that short ride. Speed has no effect, she has done it on the freeway, and when going 25 MPH. This is my daily trasnportation, so I am limited on how long I can just park it to troubleshoot, I am riding it how it is for now. I really don't want to change out sensors at random. My troubleshooting efforts on my EFI truck have allowed me to only ever have to change one sensor, and that was an O2 sensor with about 150,000 miles on it. Bike has about 15,000 miles, '00 X1, Race ECM, Forcewinder, V&H pipe. And I ride her like a sport bike (wussy stoppies, pathetic wheelies, lots of WOT, lots of brakes, no chicken strips, etc). http://www.sidewlk.homestead.com/page2.html |
