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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Drivetrain » Clutch: Cable, Adjustment, Basket, Hub, Spring, Plates... » Archive through June 07, 2008 » Clutch Archives » Archive through June 26, 2002 « Previous Next »

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Spike
Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 05:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anybody know the size socket necessary to remove the sprocket shaft nut?

Is there any chance of replacing the shift detent plate without removing the engine sprocket?

Thanks in advance.

Mike L.
'99 Cyclone (5 and counting)
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Rempss
Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 08:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Spike, 1-1/8" , I don't think so. The clutch basket nut is 1-3/16, left hand thread.

Jeff
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Spike
Posted on Friday, May 03, 2002 - 06:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Alright, shift detent plate project has been done for a week but I'm having a heck of a time getting the clutch adjusted correctly. Last time I tore down the primary I didn't have any trouble adjusting the clutch but this time I can't seem to get it right. I tried to adjust it myself the first time and I've followed the procedure out of the '99/'00 service manual twice. The clutch doesn't fully disengage no matter how far I pull the lever. It's difficult to get into neutral when the bike is running. Also, the pull at the lever is stiffer than normal, causing my hand to cramp a bit at long stoplights. Another strange thing is that there's a rattling noise when I roll to a stop with the clutch pulled in. Right before the bike comes to a stop it sounds as if something in the primary is knocking back and forth. When this happens a pulsating tug can be felt on the drivetrain. The bike seems to run just fine when the clutch is released.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance
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Aaron
Posted on Friday, May 03, 2002 - 08:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like that ball/ramp assembly ain't in there right. Just a guess.
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Jmartz
Posted on Saturday, May 04, 2002 - 11:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Spike:

Post your conclusions. My bike is doing the same.

Aaron:

Have you ever seen a worn or malfunctioning 3 ballramp?
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Sportyeric
Posted on Sunday, May 05, 2002 - 04:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I broke the triangular piece that the balls sit in, probably by attacking the locking plate with excessive vigor. Almost didn't notice the missing corner when installing it.
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Bkbjmb
Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2002 - 09:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm new to this board and need some help. I just tried to adjust my wife's 2000 Blast clutch 'by the book' and now the clutch is dragging extremely bad.

Let me give you some history. My wife and I both noticed some time ago that her clutch was engaging later and later while releasing the clutch lever. I adjusted the cable using the cable adjuster and was able to get it back to somewhere near normal. Just recently it went back to engaging really late so I decided to adjust the clutch via the shop manual's directions.

As I stated above, now the clutch is dragging. The clutch lever is also very hard to pull. I've tried turning the screw all of the way out (counter-clockwise) and I have also tried screwing it in way beyond the recommended 1/4 turn. When I turn the screw clockwise, the clutch lever pull feels back to normal but the clutch still drags. I pulled the clutch release mechanism out and inspected it and everything looks fine.

This bike only has 3,200 EASY miles on it. I assume that it has to be a stretched cable, bad clutch release mechanism, or the clutch itself is shot. Any other ideas? Where would you start??

Thanks for any help,
Brian
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Aaron
Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2002 - 09:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You did take all the slack out of the cable (i.e. completely loosen it at the cable adjuster) before adjusting it at the primary, right?
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Bkbjmb
Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2002 - 11:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Aaron,

Yes I did. In fact, I have started from scratch 4 or 5 times now with no luck. One thing that I forgot to mention, when I turned the adjustment screw counter-clockwise for the very first time, I had to turn it several complete revolutions before hitting bottom. Is that normal?

Thanks,
Brian
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Spike
Posted on Monday, May 13, 2002 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am a d!ckhead.

Long story short- my clutch is now adjusted properly. Chalk it up as user error. This is embarrassing, but somehow I managed to get a rubber spacer between the well nut and the ramp assembly. I have no idea how the rubber spacer got there or why I didn't notice there was no rubber spacer in the book, but I had it in there anyway. After much attempt to adjust the clutch I notice how this rubber spacer had gotten quite torn up, so I figured I needed to replace it. I flipped through the parts manuals for the 97-98, 99, and 00 Cyclones and was completely unable to find a listing for this rubber spacer. This lead to much frustration and head-scratching, but eventually the light bulb upstairs came on and I removed the spacer. I re-adjusted the clutch and now the bike is ready for Myrtle beach.

I can once again say that my Cyclone has never had a problem that I didn't cause.

Mike L.
'99 Cyclone (smarter than I am)
'92 Miata
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Peter
Posted on Tuesday, May 14, 2002 - 02:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's how we learn
PPiA
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Pangalactic
Posted on Tuesday, May 21, 2002 - 01:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Per Aaron:

"Is it mandatory to disassemble the clutch pack to remove it?"

Neither mandatory nor desireable.


"More specifically, do I need the clutch spring compressor tool to remove the clutch assembly?"

No.


So how do I remove it without the tool?
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Spike
Posted on Tuesday, May 21, 2002 - 02:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pang,

IIRC, you remove the snap ring and "adjusting screw assembly" which exposes the giant clutch basket nut. After you remove the clutch basket nut and the sprocket shaft nut the clutch basket will come off. It takes a bit of manuvering because the main sprocket isn't supposed to come off completely yet it needs to be moved for the clutch basket to come off. I just went through this a few weeks ago so if you need a hand let me know. Also, being a Ray Price employee gets me a pretty good discount on parts.

Mike L.
'99 Cyclone
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Pangalactic
Posted on Tuesday, May 21, 2002 - 03:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Spike, I may have to take you up on that offer...

what exactly do you do for Ray?

Thanks, Pang

P.S. G@$^@ ^&%$&^%$*&^%$ ^*(+)$#@^%&%$% $%@&^%$(! SHIFTER LEVER!!!!!!!!!! #@)$(#(!!!(#$(*# **&&#*!$&!$^ PIECE OF MONKEY SH%$ #@%%@%$@% !!!!
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Spike
Posted on Tuesday, May 21, 2002 - 05:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pang,

I work in the detail shop meaning I wash bikes. I needed something part-time while I'm in school so I figured I'd at least surround myself with bikes. It turns out to be a pretty cool gig, I don't deal with customers, I'm mostly unsupervised, I get discounts on anything the dealer can get, and I get to ride rental bikes and used bikes. I even managed to take our demo Firebolt to lunch once. Let me know if there's any way I can help.

Mike L.
'99 Cyclone
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Jmartz
Posted on Tuesday, May 21, 2002 - 09:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was able to disassemble the clutch basket in spite of the fact the I had torn the center of the pressure plate off. I used a large 2-jaw puller to grab behind the starter ring and push on the "little house on the prarie". When I finally looked into the clutch I saw the reason why the clutch would not disengage properly. The area between the diaphragm spring and the pressure plate had a layer of hardened green goop about 3/16 of an inch thick that was preventing the basket from reaching free play. The Lord know what this shit is. The reason I tore the pressure up was because the spring had no where to go.

Jose
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Buellzebub
Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2002 - 01:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jose, do you use redline in the primary? heard it degrades to the green junk on one of the boards
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Jmartz
Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2002 - 02:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buellzebub:

Yes that is the oil I've using for 40,000 miles. After breaking the pressure plate and thinking I would have to remove the basket to correct my mistake, I have now discovered a wobbly basket/hub connection. The hub bearing is shot and maybe the hub too. Bye bye another $200.

People console me and say "You've got nearly 50K miles, you've gotten your money's worth"
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Buelliedan
Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2002 - 03:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You've got nearly 50K miles, you've gotten your money's worth"
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Jmartz
Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2002 - 03:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Very funny Buellidan...

Perhaps long term use of this oil isn't such a great idea after all. 1st gear is shot (the dog portion) and hangs up before engaging, the clutch basket bearing is trashed and the red ooze turns into green paste making the clutch inoperable. Maybe if had been using "sporttrans" my trans would have fared better.
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Pilk
Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2002 - 11:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

or Mobil 1 ?
Pilk
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Jmartz
Posted on Thursday, May 23, 2002 - 09:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pilk:

I ran Mobil 1 20w50 in the trans once. Seemed to work fine but not being a trans specific oil I discontinued its use. With all the good press Redline Shockproof Heavy has had on the board I blindly followed the sheep herd to the slaughter house.
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Pilk
Posted on Thursday, May 23, 2002 - 04:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

In the primary/trans I use Mobil 1 gear oil, it's 75-90 and made for high load gear use. I've never had a problem in my buell or any of the sporsters that I've used it in. Granted the X-1 is my first and only Buell to this point but I have had several high mile sporty's. It has never gummed or varnished.
Pilk
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Jmartz
Posted on Friday, May 24, 2002 - 08:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've got one more bottle of the red goo. Considering its high cost I am going to use it till the next 2500 mile service, after that I'm switching to your brand.

I get my 15w50 Mobil 1 motor oil at Pep Kids. Where can I find the trans oil?
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Spike
Posted on Friday, May 24, 2002 - 09:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I get my Mobil 1 gear oil at the local advance auto parts for $8/quart. Wal-mart carries Mobil 1 motor oil for ~$4.50, maybe they have the gear oil too.

Mike L.
'99 Cyclone
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Pilk
Posted on Friday, May 24, 2002 - 10:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wal*Mart is no go on the gear oil but yes on motor oil. Auto Zone always has both on the shelf, seems like it is about 4 bucks a qt. maybe it's more just cant recall right now. Am also using the V-twin oil now, the guy I talked to at Mobil says the V-twin oil has a true 20w viscosity versus the 15w that is really a 5w with additives, anyway its still cheap insurance. I hope I got those viscosities right, but I'm sure some-one WILL correct me.
Pilk
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Buellsknr
Posted on Friday, May 31, 2002 - 10:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

hey tell me what is the average mileage you get out of a clutch
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Pilk
Posted on Friday, May 31, 2002 - 11:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

average miles for clutch?
what kind of abuse?
" " " oil ?
" " " load?
" " "clutch?
What I'm saying is this ? is impossible to answer without factoring in many variables.

Answer:1 quarter mi. or 100000 mi. depending.
Pilk
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Vwolf
Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2002 - 08:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Help on Clutch use
I know I may be wrong (told ya so) but I have been riding along time and never had anyone notice the way I use my clutch.I never was going to tell anyone how also because they way I use it I beat everyone
hands down when I do this..I leave the throttle open
when I shift..thats it,,it works for me and I never thought I was doing the wrong thing..I would not do it all the time but nevr had a problem..I have 2000m2 and all is fine any comments?/I am in for a big surprise??breakdown with a bang?/? or this done once in while ok?? Vwolf wcb
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, June 26, 2002 - 12:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like you use your clutch normally. Sounds like you keep the throttle open when you shift.

Seriously though, that is a common drag racing technique of old. Not the best thing for your clutch or engine, but not catastrophic either. Ever loop it shifting into 2nd?
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