| Author |
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Reepicheep
| | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 10:33 am: | 
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Been there, done that, all of it 
FWIW, it takes 4 diamond tipped dremel bits to dig out the a broken off easy out tip from the center of a sheared off exhaust header stud. And about 6 hours of your time all said and done. Don't even try the easy out.
I drilled mine out (without the Jims tool) and retapped. I started with a small bit and went most of the length of the stud as straight as I could, and worked my way up to larger sized bits. By the time I was just about full depth, I was off by about half the thickness of the original stud.
I just retapped the whole mess (half the old stud and part of the head) and put in a new stud. I then just treated that stud gently. It held fine for the next 20k miles I owned the bike, but I won't lie and say the pucker factor was not VERY high every time I had to retorque that stud.
Don't even bother with the easy out, and get the Jims tool. Somebody around here had one and was passing it around... but the price is reasonable for the pain it solves. |
Tripper
| | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 11:35 am: |
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I'm 2 for 2 with the JIMS tool. No heli-coil required if your lucky. It's a great item. |
Jmartz
| | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 12:54 pm: |
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I agree... |
Teenc
| | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 04:23 pm: |
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Thanks for the info guys, now I know what I am up against. That tool is pretty expensive, but i'm sure it will save me a lot of agony later. I'll let you guys know when I get it. That way if anyone needs to borrow it they can. |
Teenc
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 24, 2004 - 11:55 pm: |
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OK, I got all the stuff from American Sport Bike. I ordered the exhaust stud removal tool, the Y mount bracket, and some other odds and ends. I highly recommend American Sport Bike by the way. I used the Jim's tool to drill out the exhaust stud. I couldn't use the drill bit that came with it because my drill was too fat to get past the frame. So I just used a really long bit instead. That worked fine. Then I had to re-tap the hole with a 5/16"-18 tap. After that, the new stud went in without any problems. It was pretty darn tight going in though. My problem now is that I am starting to realize that the Y-mount is pretty useless since I have an aftermarket Borla CF exhaust with no front mount on it. My question now is, should I mount the Y kit, and rig up some sort of front mount for the muffler? Or should I just not use any front mount on it at all. I would love any suggestions on making a front mount kit for the borla. I was thinking T-clamp, with a metal plate to fit under the clamp and bent up to fit the Y-mount. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks! |
Ceejay
| | Posted on Monday, February 07, 2005 - 09:01 am: |
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since we are on the subject, what about when using a force header/sorta muffler? Are you guys using the crush washers? I have had to bump two of my studs up to 3/8" because of previous owner and my inability to check on this. the bolts were loose and shook around a lot and wallowed out the holes in the head-at least that is what looks like what happened. But have not had any problems since with loosening nuts or studs. did remove old y style clamp and started having problems with cracking stock header where they are joined together, is this due to weight? I know that the stock mufflers weigh a ton and was thinking that the mount was there becuase of the weight and insurance purposes, muffler to header works loose, muffler drops, rider grinds off nose, etc. Am I going to need this with the force? any suggestions? |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, February 07, 2005 - 09:41 am: |
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Wow, lots of questions there. I can't really answer the details, but can offer a broad guideline...
Just like with wizzards and unix system administrators, you should not trifle with a Buell exhaust, for they weild great power and do not suffer fools lightly.
I loved my aftermarket Suppertrapp IDS on the Cyclone, so I am not saying stick with stock, but I would want my aftermarket pipe to be substantially similar in mounting and strength to the stock factory exhaust.
An exhaust that ELIMINATES the front mount does NOT fall into this catagory. If I had one of these pipes, and really wanted to use it, I would either add mounts to bring it back to be stronger then the stock exhaust, or get evidence (read: warranty) in writing from the manufacturer to prove that their way is better for their exhaust.
(Message edited by reepicheep on February 07, 2005) |
Ceejay
| | Posted on Monday, February 07, 2005 - 10:10 am: |
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well this thing is well beyond stock and warranty, I was thinking out loud about the uses of some of the attachment points. Also voicing concerns/problems that I had previously run into when it was closer to stock. The force doesn't eliminate the stock attachment point but I was wondering if becuase there is substantially less weight to this system vs. the stock header and even an aftermarket silencer, and also eliminating another possible failure spot-the header to muffler attachment-if it was a good reason not to use the front mount as to eliminate possible twist spots in a different plane than what occurs up at the head mounting positions. Somewhat of hillbilly engineering I guess. |
Rick_a
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2005 - 01:06 pm: |
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My current setup with the race header is a home made solid front mount with a U-bolt. I was using nylock nuts for the header studs but now can use the standard flange nuts as I no longer have any problems with them coming loose. I also stack two of the retainers together and that has eliminated leaks from the retainers slipping over the header flange. Only time will tell... |
Ceejay
| | Posted on Friday, June 10, 2005 - 10:27 pm: |
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I had been using the new force for about a 1000 miles now, header studs good, rear mount no go, never installed a front mount. The rear triangle mount has starting from the back began to pull away from the pipe. I had a spacer made from a hockey puck in between the pipe mount and the drop from the tranny that it bolt too. This must have been way too hard as the pipe vibrates side to side and puts way too much load on the pipe, kind of like a big tuning fork, pulling the mount off. I think I may have to "engineer" a front mount or rethink the rear mount, maybe just a strap? Anyone else having this problem? Been going through KV but nothing specific as of yet. |
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Exhaust Stud Torque/Securing
