| Author | Message | ||
     Kdraw1 |
Has anyone ever tried to cut open a stock muffler and make some "adjustments" to the inside and then reweld the can back together? I'm kinda a performance rookie. Mechanically, I know what's going on, but when it comes to increasing performance I'm pretty dense. I just figured it might be an inexpensive way to save $300. Kevin | ||
| Steveshakeshaft |
On our UK "forum", one of the sponsors (Mickey at Eyeball Engineering) does this modification exactly as you describe. You could ask the question at http://ukbeg.com . | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Kevin, I modified my stock pipe on my M2. Not very difficult really. I cut through the weld that attaches the "end cap". I did it with a fine hack was, just worked my way around the pipe. After you have cut throught the casing, you will need to also cut through the exhaust "snout" (the short external chrome section) as it runs all the way to the front chamber. The end cap should now fall off. Inside on the other side from the "snout" tube you will see a 2 1/2 diameter "plug". This plug caps the end of the header tube. Remove this plug and exhaust will flow from the inlet to the rear chamber. On the end cap, cut the snout flush with the inside of the end cap. Also saw off as much of the exposed snout tube on the muffler side. All that's left is to reweld on the rear end cap. I gas welded mine back on as I was out of gas for my wire feed. Once all that is done, exhaust will flow from the front straight through to the rear chamber and exit out the "snout". The tone of the muffler is much louder and deeper. Seat dyno said the low mid range was improved. It also seemed to rev quicker. YMMV Brad | ||
| Streettracker |
I have a 99 M2 that I cut the front of the stock muffler apart 2 inches back from the front mount. I now had a short 2 1/2 inch pipe with a mount attached to it. I found a 2 1/2 inch intake hooker muffler for a Dyna glide or some other big harley that fit on to this short pipe the exhaust end is 4 inches in diameter or so and is tuneable and exits at the rear of the engine case in the same position as the orginal muffler. The chrome is very good and looks good also, sort-a-like a short chrome stack coming out the underside of the engine. Only down side is the weight, not as light as a V&H or other alu. type but very sturdy. | ||
| Blake |
I'd like to see a picture of that. Sounds like a good idea for a do it yourself muffler. How's it sound? | ||
| Streettracker |
The muffler sounds great, very low rumble, a lot of tone in the setting I am using; high torque which has all the exhaust from the collector going through the glass pack. To get better hp at higher rpm the instructions have you turn the adjustment which rotates the inner pipe to allow more of a straight through flow but a lot more noise. The intake end of this system is 2 1/2 and the exit is 4 1/2 | ||
| Streettracker |
I can't find a way to post a picture of the exhaust system I have used on this site. If you are interested, contact me at motorcycles@gci.net and I will send you a picture. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I can tell you how NOT to modify the stock muffler. A few years ago, I was having lunch in Winder, Georgia. I notice a guy in a brand new X1 pull into the parking lot and his bike is LOUD. I go to investigate and see that this guy has cut his entire muffler off where the headpipe flairs out. He made no provisions to mount anything else in place of the muffler. I tried to discuss this with him, but he was convinced that this was a good modification. I wonder how long he rode that bike before he burned a valve? | ||
| Jmartz |
Dj: There is guy who sometimes comes to the Vortex with his X1 sporting an opened collector. I told him the same thing. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Jose, Well, if it's the same guy, he hasn't burned a valve yet. You know, now that I think about it, the stock head pipes are about as long as the open twice pipes you see on Sportsters. Maybe an engine could live like this for some time. Still pretty stupid though. I remember this guy was kind of heavy and not too bright - could it be the same guy? | ||
| Jmartz |
The person I met is in his 40's and I don't think he is a long time biker or at least he doesn't get into the technical parts of it. I agree that low back pressure can damage an engine but it take a long time. | ||
| Blake |
I don't think burning an exhaust valve is a big risk anymore. The modern seat and valve materials are pretty darn tough. As long as the engine is not over lean, it should be okay. The short pipe might acutally cause the engine to run rich due to reversion. | ||
| Rick_A |
I can attest to that. I ran my S1 with no muffler for a minute to see how it'd sound...it barely ran to begin with...and removing the plugs showed them wet. | ||
| Stringbean |
Well, this certainly seems to be the right place to post this question.... I was thinking about making room for my oil drain plug (so I don't have to drop the muffler to change the oil), by cutting a small, square hole in the side of the muffler, and welding a recessed box into it. Someone suggested simply heating it up with a torch and bashing it with a hammer to make way for the bolt/drain, but I prefer the welding approach. My question is: Did any of you have a problem with ignition of the oil/fuel residue in the pipe, when striking the arc, or were you able (or did you need) to wash it first? Thanks! -SB (Tim) | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Tim, When I modded my stock M2 muffler, I had no problems. About 9K mile on the pipe not much carbon. You may want to reconsider the welding part. It's way easier to heat it up and use a big ball pein hammer. Put a big one against the pipe, ball side on the hot spot then hit it with another hammer to have a bit more control over the "dent". I've used this method on other "projects". Turns out real well if you take your time. Brad | ||
| Stringbean |
Brad. I don't know why I didn't notice this before, but there's already a dimple/dent in the top of the muffler, just below the drain bolt (a factory dent), that's just deep enough to fit the drain plug. It makes a little bit of a mess when you drain the oil out all over the muffler, but it's a small price to pay if it means not having to remove the pipe (a good 30 minute job). My guess would be that this is what most shops do to decrease their "book time" for the job. Hell, why remove the darn thing when you can simply spray a little degreaser on the pipe and wipe it off?? Thanks for the hammer tip, but as it turns out it won't be necessary. -T | ||
| Mikej |
-T, A putty knife or spatula comes in handy when replacing the drain bolt without removing the stock muffler, holds the bolt up so you can get a wrench on it without your fingers getting in the way. A little trick is to wrap the muffler with tin foil before removing the drain plug, saves cleanup time. But here's another little trick, head down to your local hardware store and pick up some 1/4"-3/8" clear tubing. Then take that to your bike, remove the clutch inspection cover being carefull not to loose the little spring on the inside of the cover, then insert the siphon hose into the primary and drain the fluid that way. I cut a diagonal on the end of the hose and stuff it under the primary chain in front of the clutch drum. Gets about as much lube out as when using the drain plug, but it's a whole lot easier. Just warm the bike up first for a bit to help the lube flow easier. When I get a spare cover in a few weeks I'll be having a drain plug welded in at a more accessable location. Might even put an adjuster viewing window in, haven't decided on that part yet. | ||
| Stringbean |
Mike. Thanks for the tin foil idea, that's a good one. I used the handle of a spoon I had handy to lift the plug back into position, so I know what you mean about your fingers getting in the way  This time I had to de-grease my engine anyway, so washing it down afterwards wasn't a biggie.. Next time I'll try the foil idea. Those are all good ideas, and ones I'll certainly try the next time. Thanks! -Tim edited by Stringbean on March 11, 2004 | ||
| Bomber |
I got a lenth of 3/8 ID hose with a little bulb siphon built in from a boating supply store . . . . it gets about 95% of the primary lube out without dropping the damb bolt (which, with an aftermarket can gets real old in a hurry) . . . . I found I wasn't partial to the taste of gear lube | ||
| Mikej |
Hence the "clear" tubing. After about the third mouthful of gas out of a green garden hose as a kid one eventually learns it doesn't taste particularly good. Probably a good thing I didn't smoke as a kid. | ||
| Road_thing |
Yeah, those "Arkansas credit cards" can leave a bad taste in yer mouth... r-t | ||
| Boese |
here in europe it is not just the money issue, but also a thing called EC Prüfzeichen, a symbol any aftermarket part must have to be legal. Also we have laws on how loud you can be. Since i live in a large city in the strict state of bavaria, which is known to confiscate bikes or cars, here is how i tried reworking my X1 muffler: Some of these pics I only posted to make the explanations you hear here or on other boards easier to understand.... http://community.webshots.com/album/324468641cunMEY I am not finished yet since it started raining and i could not roll out the Bel Air to weld in peace, but there will be more pics of how i put the thing back together and reweld it to original looks so it looks stock to the police in case i get pulled over. If anybody has ideas on how to reduce noise without adding back pressure please feel free to do so, all i can think of right now is to add steel wool to the 2 pipes with the small diameter... boese | ||
| Cadman |
I did mine similar to Boese but only removed the rear end, cut section of tale pipe and drilled holes in end cap.   |
