| Author | Message | ||
     Dirty |
First post for me and looking for some good advice. I have a 2000 M2 and I am looking to install a D&D slip on. D&D says that I don't have to rejet, Harley says I should rejet. I am looking for a sound improvement over a performance improvement, however I do not want to put my engine under ANY stress so if I should rejet then I will. I was hoping to put the pipe on, then in a month or two put on the K&N airfilter and rejet the bike. Thoughts or advice? Thanks. | ||
| Blake |
Dirty, If your carburetor still has the #42 stock pilot (low speed) jet, you would be advised to upgrade it to a #45. The high speed (main) jet is probable okay. Check out the suggestions at the top of the "Engine - Carburetion" page here in the Knowledge Vault.  | ||
| Dirty |
Thanks Blake. I will look into the suggestions at the top...do you think having the pipe on for a month without jetting will damage the engine at all? | ||
| Blake |
Dirty, It could. Putting in a #45 pilot jet is too easy. Why risk it? | ||
| Dirty |
I would like to put a D&D slip on exhaust on my 00 M2. D&D says that I do not have to jet, Harley said that I should. Who do I believe? Blake had said I could change the pilot jet from a #42 to a #45, which is fairly easy. I am trying to achieve sound more than performance, however I do not want to put my engine under any stress so spending the extra money to jet the bike IS an option. I have heard that jetting can cause more problems than what it is worth. Any good input would really help, and thanks for the jetting pointers Blake. Dirty. | ||
| Eastexsteve |
Rejetting 2001 M2L with D&D slip-on and K&N filter in stock air box. I decided this post might be appropriate here. I am about to finish the fine-tuning on my bike which has this configuration. I have already been the round with rejetting the carb with the bike in stock trim and had great success. I went to a #45 slow jet and ended up with the idle screw at 3 turns. The bike came stock with a KOKK needle and a #195 main jet. No other mods to the needle or main jet were needed. The bike ran perfectly in stock trim. Now, after adding the K&N and D&D slip-on, the whole game has changed. However, I made the following mods and if I'm not on the point, I'm definitely close. Suffice to say that if you add a D&D slip-on and a K&N element, you WILL have to rejet. And, I didn't just go for rideability, I was going for the performance as well. First, I should mention some preliminary observations based upon my prior experiences as a racer and a motorcyle mechanic back in the stone age. When I first recieved the D&D, it was obvious that this pipe was going to flow bigtime. It appears to be the same diameter as the collector all the way out to the end and NO restrictions. I then became a bit apprehensive and began thinking this may be a bit much flow for a stock bike. The D&D is built well, mounts up good, and sounds low, lean and mean. I made a trip to the local weekend biker hangout and my bike was the meanest sounding thing on the lot. It sounds beautiful at all RPM ranges. However, it is a bit loud for my taste. It is definitely loud to any passenger that may be riding two-up with you. If you consistently ride a passenger, you may want to reconsider another pipe that isn't quite so loud. Now, for the jetting. Essentially, the only carb mods I had so far was the #45 slow jet and 3 turns out on the needle. This wasn't going to get it now that I added the K&N and the D&D. I upped the slow jet to a #48 and went about 3/4 turns out on the mixture screw. The bike then ran perfectly at idle and low speed. A quick ride down the road produced somewhat of a dead spot between 3K and 4K where there wasn't one before. At 4K the bike got up on the power band, but started to flatten out about 5K and acted like it didn't want to go all the way to 6K. Time for some changes. Now, I'm not a person to ignore those who have gone down the road before me, and I carefully researched what mods had been posted for other brands of slip-ons. However, those mods didn't work on this setup. This bike was running lean on the top end and was taking way too long getting up on power. I replaced the 195 main with a 205 and shimmed the needle .040 of an inch. Another test ride produced a slightly quicker jump to the power band. The dead spot was starting to dissappear as the bike started to come up to power at 3700 instead of 4K, and a good pull all the way to 6K. However, it was still taking its time getting up on midrange, and I thought I could occassionally detect a very slight blubber at about 5500. I then shimmed the needle again, this time to about .080 of an inch. I know this sounds insane and against all experiences posted on this message base, but the results were magic. Another test ride showed that the flat spot was gone, the bike came up on power HARD at about 3500 and pulled STRONG all the way to the rev limiter in each gear. However, something that concerns me about using this many shims under the needle. It would appear that when you exceed about .030 worth of shims under the needle, you start raising the nylon spring retainer off of the bottom of the slide, thereby increasing the tension of the spring and making it "leaner" than it was. Although, we are only taking about .050 more spring compression here, and I don't think that much will matter. However, the next time I go by the Harley shop, I will try to pick up another spring and shorten it by .050 in its compressed length and see if it makes a difference. It's worth mentiong that when trying to use seat-of-the-pants technology to performance tune, that you don't get misled by how good the new pipe sounds. Before I started all this, I was careful to mark myself off a stretch of roadway and make mental note of how fast I could attain certain speeds within certain distances. The bike now exceeds all of them. Also, don't make the mistake of whacking the throttle at about 4000 RPM in 1st gear. If you do, you will be looking at the instrument cluster at eye level. And, I'm not sitting back on the seat, either. I'm sitting in riding position on an M2L seat against the tank. It didn't use to do that in stock trim. Also, it idles at a lower throttle plate opening and takes less accelerator to cruise at 70 mph. The fuel economy appears unchanged. I may not have it perfect yet, but I'm definitely in the park. However, I'm not going to make anymore changes until I stick a portable A/F meter on it and go for a ride. Hopefully, I will do that this weekend. I would love to stick it on a dyno and A/F meter and see what's really going on. However, where I live, those are non-existent. If I make any more mods, I will post them here. | ||
| Dirty |
Great info... Well I put the new "y" bracket on my bike ('00 M2), slipped on the D&D...was a dumb ass and didn't look to see the gap between the headers and airbox...it melted a hole in it! The pipe WILL NOT mount without touching the stock air box. Looking at changing air intake so I can get rid of the stock box. SideWinder with a K&N is what I am thinking of doing. I will definately take into consideration what you did. I also changed to a 45 pilot and have a 195 main. Found that same soft spot you are talking about...through the acceleration. Also, when I run the bike really hard I have tranny oil everywhere out that hose near the license plate. I bought that $3.00 baffel and stuck it down the tube. I haven't ridden the bike hard enough to find out if that helped...anyone know why that happens????? It started as soon as I put that pipe on. Keep me posted on any other changes you make...I'm still pissed about the airbox...but that's what happens when you're STUPID!!! anyone want to warn me about anything else that's dumb ass material!! | ||
| Eastexsteve |
Dirty; If you are using the correct mounting, the stock airbox won't touch. Make sure you have all the connections pushed all the way in. Tighten the header pipes to the head first and make sure you have air box clearance like it was, then completely shove all the other connections together and bolt up the slip-on. Unless you think it is ugly, try to repair the stock box and try it first with a K&N filter ($43). On a stock motor, I'm not yet convinced that anything else works better. The stock box with a K&N seems to be working pretty good on mine with the D&D. Put it this way, it is obviously getting so much flow that I have the jetting and needle setting where it is as per my message above. | ||
| Eastexsteve |
Update on jetting for 2001 M2: I decided to drop back down on the slow jet to a #45 and I have the idle screw out 3 turns. A #48 was a tad too rich in warm weather. I also drilled out the slide hole to .110". THe bike seems to get up on power a tad quicker and accelerates quicker through first gear. A recap of my mods to date are: D&D slip-on K&N filter in stock airbox 205 main jet 45 slow jet, screw out 3 turns needle shimmed .080 slide hole drilled .110" I might be just a tad rich on the main jet. I haven't decided yet. If I get a chance, I'll try a #200 and see what happens. But, the #205 pulls good. Much harder than the stock #195. | ||
| M2me |
Eastexsteve, Cool. I have been thinking about these exact mods for my 2001 M2. The only thing I have so far is the 45 slow jet. I might stay with the 195 main jet and see how that goes. I would think a 205 would be a little rich. How loud is the D&D slip-on? How does it compare with a V&H? I have never heard a Buell with a D&D so the V&H is all I have to compare it with. Some people think the V&H is really loud but I don't think so. | ||
| Shotgun |
M2me, Estexsteve is right on. The D&D slip on is great. Yeah, it is a little loud, but way cool, bubba. Your 195 is good. I have gone from 185 thru 205 and now have settled on the 200. I did no drilling or shimming, otherwise, same as Estexsteve. |
