| Author | Message | ||
     Mikej |
Check the air filter, check the choke/enrichener, and recheck the battery cables. Some battery cables have been known to brake or become uncrimped in a place that visually and handily pass first and second inspections. Maybe try jumpering over the cables if possible and see if that makes a difference. === "2) Universal Harley-Davidson / Buell starter "key" " Is that anything like a length of bailing wire????? | ||
| Doncasto |
Quote:"Is that anything like a length of bailing wire?????" Last time it happened to me my UHDBSK was a piece of barbed wire fence, just like I used to use on my Model A Ford when the distributor to spark plug clips broke off. . . .have scars from them barbs and they continue to bite me every time I start the damn bike! YMMV  | ||
| Xldevil |
Hi.Hier mal ein kleines Sportsterproblem.Gestern funktioniert bei mir plötzlich weder Fern noch Abblendlicht.Hab heute alle Kabel, Schalter und Steckverbinder geprüft mit Prüflampe und Auge, natürlich die Birne, fand aber nix.Zu guter letzt hab ich die Sicherungen kontrolliert und siehe da-eine(15A) war durchbebrannt.Hab leider keine Bi-Metallsicherungen wie ältere Sportys. Also neue Sicherung rein und das Licht brannte.Alle Deckel, den Tank, die Schalter etc. wieder montiert. Bin dann grad ne Runde gebrettert und als das Bike warm war, liess ich sie laufen.Sobald ich die Drehzahl erhöhte war die Sicherung wieder durch.Und die Kontrolleuchte für´s Fernlicht brannte-mal heller, mal dunkler, mal gar nicht. Was soll ich davon halten? Kann das der Regler sein der eine Überspannung erzeugt? Müsste dann aber nicht die Hauptsicherung (30 A) durchknallen? Oder hab ich doch irgendwo einen Wackelkontakt? Vielleicht zu wenig Masse? Wer hat nen Tip? Hab zwar den Schaltplan von meinem Bike, aber keine Prüfgeräte, ausser ner primitiven Prüflampe und auch wenig Plan von Elektrik. So long,Ralph Text | ||
| Mikej |
Hi. | ||
| Mikej |
Ralph's machine translated text from one of the online translators: === begin === Rear one. Here times a small Sportsterproblem. Yesterday headlight low beam functions suddenly neither far with me nor. Have today all cables, switches and plug connectors examined with test lamp and eye, naturally the pear, found however nix. Too better lastly I the safety devices controlled and see there-eine(1Ä) had through-tremble-run. Have unfortunately no bi-Metallsicherungen like older Sportys. Thus new safety device purely and the light burned. All covers, the tank, the switches etc.. again installs. Are gebrettert then degree ne round and as the Bike was warm, I let it run. As soon as I the number of revolutions increased was the safety device again through. And the control light fuer's high beam burn times more brightly, times more darkly, times not at all. What am I to hold of it? Can that be the automatic controller the one overvoltage produced? Wouldn't the main safety device (30 A) however have to then through-slam? Or have I nevertheless somewhere a bad contact? Perhaps too few measures? Who has nen tip? Have the connection diagram of my Bike, but no testing sets, except more ner primitive test lamp and also little plan of electrical connection. === end === | ||
| Xldevil |
Wow. That´s a realy funky translation.But not too bad.I suppose the main topic is understandable.But some idioms are hard to translate i.e."gebrettert" means rumbling around. So here´s my version: Yesterday neither High beam nor low funktioned while riding.Today I examined all switches, cables and wires- found nothing remarkable( "nix" means "nothing"- germann slang- correct would be "nichts"  . One of the 15 A breakers was burnt.I changed it and everything worked fine.So I reinstalled the tank, the switches and so on. Then I went for a ride.As the bike warmed up, I raised the revs and suddenly the breaker was burnt again while the high beam controllamp was burning but switch was at low. Maybe this could be the regulator, but wouldn´t a overvoltage demage the main breaker (30 A )at first?. Maybe a bad contact or few masses? Being very stupid in elektriks, I will be happy about any tip to solve this problem. That´s a more or less good, but brain made translation. So long,Ralph  | ||
| Bluzm2 |
OK Folks, I need a bit of help with speedo sensors. My first one lasted around 13500 miles. The second one lasted about a week and 1500 miles. Frist one blew just outside of Lincoln Neb on Tuesday on the way to Colorado. I picked up a new sensor at Sun HD in Denver. Installed it the same day (Wed). It lasted the rest of the trip. On Tuesday the following week on the way home from work the new one blew. I called Buell Customer Care, they arranged to exchange it at my local dealer in Mpls. The sensor I got at Sun was the standard part. I told BCC that I wanted the new version and gave them the 74431-01y part number. They called ST Paul HD and arranged to have it ordered at no charge. Today I went to pick up the new part but left without the new sensor. I think they sent the wrong part. Here's the question.... Are there 3 different sensors? The replacement unit at the dealers had a lead that was quite short. It's about half the length of the old one. I compared it to a Blast that was on the show floor and it appeared to be a Blast unit. Here's the part numbers. Original part # 74402-95 Part sent from Buell/HD 74431-01 Part mentioned on BWB 74431-01y Is the y suffix the difference? For those of you that have the "new" sensor, was the lead length the same as the original sensor? The parts guy called Buell to check, the said the new version had the short lead. Said it would fit. I did a little eyeball measuring, looks WAY too short. Any info out there????? Thanks Brad | ||
| Aaron |
A "Y" suffix normally denotes a Buell-specific part, as opposed to one that's shared by it's Harley brethren. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Brad... if you can't get the new part, can get the old part free, or are just sick of waiting for it, I can send you a couple schematics for simple mods that will protect the sensor and likely solve your problem, it solved mine. Less then $10 worth of parts at your local Radio Shack and about 10 solder joints. I will build you one if you are not handy with an iron. We also had an anony post suggesting you do not cable tie the replacement part overly tight, as it breaks the wires internally (though that was NOT the problem with any of my 2 blown sensors). | ||
| Totway |
Hey guys, I need help with a starter gremlin! I suddenly can only start in neutral, previously I could start (restart) in every gear. I searched old messages and can only find references to clutch and kickstand safety switches. Who can tell how / where to bypass the neutral switch? It sure is clumsy to find neutral quickly if you stall in traffic!! | ||
| Leeaw |
The switch is at the top of the kickstand, and can be unplugged and jumped with a paperclip. Give it a shot, but it should have been replaced under warranty. Lee | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Thanks Aaron, I'll check with the parts guy again. Bill, I'll take the schematic if you have it in a soft version. I'm pretty good with a soldering iron but thanks for the offer. I went back through the KV and found the reference from Anony. When I installed the replacement sensor while in Denver, I used a single tie wrap, very loose up by the connector. I didn't have any more available. A too tight tie wrap isn't the problem. I'll ya all posted! Thanks Brad | ||
| Aaron |
Totway: the way it's supposed to work is that it'll start in gear so long as the clutch is in. Check your clutch switch. If you really want to bypass the neutral switch instead, find the wire going into the side of the case near the front pulley, and ground it. 'Course, your neutral light will always be on. | ||
| Totway |
AARON, Thanks it did work that way until yesterday so I'll suspect the clutch switch first, I don't want to loose my neutral light! | ||
| Sandmanx1 |
Hello there ladies an gentelman. Im in need of some electrical expertise. I had a little mishap the other night while showing off for the cameras at the foreinger and bad company concert you see said she was ready and to go but i guess she wasn't cause when i looked back she was laying face down with my right rear blinker in her hand  she is alright and still loves me but now my speedo, brake light,and all 4 blinkers are not working i put the one that poped of back on was no visable damage. i have checked the fuses and dont see any loose wires. i am a little confused because the were working on the way home and now after sitting for a few days they are not. any suggestions  | ||
| Suzypoozie |
My bike is operational again! I disconnected the clutch when I first broke down on the side of the road, but I didn't short it out. After changing out the spark plug wires, and plugs, and getting really frustrated, I grabbed a discarded paper clip (from my earlier side stand switch manipulation....and walla! Thank you all for your help! | ||
| Totway |
Aaron thanks again! Initially I jumped the clutch safety switch terminal with safety wire and it was the problem so I slid the wire covering up a bit and stripped both wires then soldered them together. Starts in any gear again! | ||
| X1glider |
Attn X1 and S1 owners: I have a S1 race flyscreen for my X1. Problem is the bubble on the flyscreen is on the opposite side for the X1. I still want to use my guages for referencing my entry speeds. Does anyone know if I can use the S1 dash for my X1 guages and indicators? What about the placement of the ignition switch? Will the dash mount to the bar clamp properly as well? If you can take a digital pic of the S1 dash, it would help me understand a little better as I've never seen an S1 in person. | ||
| Jmartz |
X1: You could. I have seen a # of people witht the ignition switch in the dasboard on their S1's. The benefit of the X1 arrangement is that the higher gauge is on the left, where it should be in order to clear the clutch cable. On the S1 arrangement the gauge cluster is lower (better looking) but the clutch cable rubs the speedo (S1W bars only). There is also the issue of wire harness length... | ||
| S3dave |
Does anyone know of a repair that can be done to the ignition switch (2000 S3) when it becomes loose inside? i have to jiggle my key now to get things to turn on. I am sure it will get progressively worse and finally quit working. And is it the same switch as on a sporster?? i have a harley dealer close so I could just get a switch there. Thanks, dave | ||
| Rick_A |
My S1 is killing tail light bulbs with annoying regularity. She has stiffner bushings in the isolators and vibrates much like a Sporty. With a license plate relocator in place the whole assembly vibrates like a tuning fork. Are there any heavier duty bulbs out there or will I be forced switch to an LED bulb? | ||
| Andrew |
Go the LED route. There is a guy on Ebay selling them for about $10 a pair. Got mine a month ago. Work well, sear the eyeballs and passed the ultimate test. Followed for 10 miles by State police (twisty no passing route)and no ticket! I think his handle (ebayer) in HIDXENON. | ||
| Rempss |
Rick, I went the LED route in a different way. I have not liked the idea of only having 1 running / brake light. I bought a set of stick on LED lights here stuck them to the sides of my stock lens. I bought the 8 LED modules with dual-function and the flasher (it is user selectable if desired). They blend right in with the taillight, hardley notice them until they are on. Quite bright in the running light mode, painfull in the brake light mode. They blink about 8-10 times then go solid when the brakes are applied. I put a switch in to make them solid all the time if needed (in Ohio a brake light cannot flash according to a State Trooper  ) so I can switch it next time I get pulled over and inform the Trooper he must be seeing things.  Most of the replacement DC base modules I have seen don't have much visibility past 45 degrees or so. This is why wanted to keep a incandescent in the lens. I use a Sylvania long life offroad lamp, much better filament support than a standard lamp. I feel better with 3 running and brake light to the rear now. I am trying to figure out how to make the yellow running lights (front & rear) run all the time and blink when needed also. I can get them on and working, but the dash lights stay on all the time also when I attach them that way. I don't like that. I'll post a picture of the talilight if you would like. Jeff | ||
| Rick_A |
Thanks for the info guys...the LED route sounds like a good one...so far the standard filament bulbs have been dying after only a few hundred miles. | ||
| Jrh |
X1 Im not sure what if anything you can use out of this but heres some of what i did to my Y2000 M2 guages.My year M2 came without a tach so i bought one for a Y2000 X1,bought an S1 syle polished alum.dash,an S1 regular fly screen,put on X1 forks+trees.Problem,Y2000 guages were about 1/4"(I think,it was a while ago)too large in diameter for S1 dash.Enlarged both guage openings in dash with a die-grinder,then the rubber grommet cushion for each guage had to be trimmed down with a razor knife,worked fairly well i think but i lost some of the vibration cushioning affect,dont know if its enough to matter though yet.My original M2 ig.switches wiring was long enough to mount the ig.switch tucked in above the left X1 type headlight mount,homeade little alum.bracket even looks like it could have come in that location from factory.Also my M2 indicator lights(not sure what X1s are shaped like though) fit ok into the S1 dash.Minor problem,my bottom 2,of the two mounting holes on each side of the S1 screen dont quite align with the bottom holes in the X1 headlight mounts. Throw in your S1 race combination # fly screen + your lower Crossroads bars though and maybe you have other clearance problems but i bet you can make it work. | ||
| X1glider |
Yeah, I talked to Crossroads yesterday and got the skinny. First they said the guages were a different size for X1 and S1 and the mounting holes were spaced different. 2nd, when I asked if they could make a reverse X1 dash for me, they said it would cost too much. New machine setup, changing the program, etc. 3, the S1 flyscreen lays back more so the X1 bracket won't line up with the holes in the screen. My solutions will be to fab my own dash and do some trimming to the number plate/flyscreen so it will fit. The hole pattern was just one problem. Tomorrow I'll take my dash apart then I'll create a Mazak program on Monday. Just need a piece of aluminum now. | ||
| X1nut |
Rick, You could also try using "trailer" light bulbs. They're less expensive than LED's and I've had pretty good luck with them in my Softy. This ain't no regular softy, either...big engine - big vibration. It ate tail light bulbs like candy. The trailer bulbs last much longer than the regulars, and you should be able to find them at your local parts store, or a trailer supplier. | ||
| Rick_A |
Thanks, but I already I took Andrew's route. I know LED's generally last a rediculously long time and are unaffected by vibration. Normally they go for $35-$50, but damn...ya can't beat $10. | ||
| Hootowl |
For the longest time, my turn signals didn't work when it was wet out. I put dielectric grease on all the connections, but to no avail. Yesterday I took out the flasher and took it apart. Lots of water and corrosion is what I found. I dried it off, wirebrushed the corrosion off, sprayed it with battery terminal protector for a home made conformal coating and put it back together, sealing the end with RTV. Am I alone in this, or has somebody else had this problem? Mine is a 99X1. Are the later models sealed units? Anyway, it works now, rain or shine. | ||
| Pj1 |
Yesterday on my way back from Monteal to Boston about halfway home my speedometer started acting up. It was jumping from 20 mph to 85 mph. after about 20 minutes of this it finally just stopped working all together. Every now and then over the last 150 miles it would come back on for about 30 seconds and then turn off. This morning everything was back to normal. Has this happened to anyone before? |
