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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Engine » Intake: Intake Tract, Airbox, Filter, Manifold, Gaskets » Archive through June 04, 2002 « Previous Next »

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Roadrunr
Posted on Tuesday, April 16, 2002 - 05:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

b2m2: You must be talking about dr. John.
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Mikej
Posted on Wednesday, April 17, 2002 - 09:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Has anyone made a metal replacement venturi ring to replace the easily breakable stock one? One of my summer projects is to try and turn/carve one out with my Unimat mini-lathe out of aluminum or something. I'm thinking of just trying to match the plastic part's curvature unless someone can lead me to a better contour to help direct the airflow into the mouth of the carb from the airfilter volume.

MikeJ (Just fishing for ideas and input.)
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X1glider
Posted on Wednesday, April 17, 2002 - 10:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd stick with the same curvature as the stock one, Mikej, I'm sure Buell has a reason for it's shape. Then again it could just be a simple radius for the purpose of making a smooth transition. Who knows? All I know is that for the diameter involved, there's nowhere near enough length to create a real venturi. Not much help, huh?
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Mikej
Posted on Wednesday, April 17, 2002 - 10:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Actually pretty close to what I was thinking. I've got a couple of tear-drop filters with different venturi radius' that I may try to copy as well. This could turn into a bigger project if I let it get out of hand.
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Bluzm2
Posted on Wednesday, April 17, 2002 - 11:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mike,
If you check out ASB's catalog, they have a venturi ring that is about 2-3 times taller than the stocker. Still a nylon unit but very different dimensions than the stocker.
Not sure about the radius though....

Brad
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Mikej
Posted on Wednesday, April 17, 2002 - 12:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Brad,
I'll check it out.
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Johnc
Posted on Thursday, April 18, 2002 - 08:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Interesting topic about the dry sock question. I have a 2000 M2 with the Buell race series carbon fiber air filter. I bought the dry sock from ASB but found that it will only fit if I put it under the carbon fiber cover. I was thinking this would be a PITA on a trip if it starts to rain as I would have to stop and remove the 2 screws securing the cover. I thought I might leave it on all the time but I guess that's not such a good idea if it saps power.
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Buellzebub
Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 09:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

it takes a pretty severe downpour to decrease the efficiency of the factory race air cleaner, i've done two hour downpour rides [don't ask why... it had to be done] with the race aircleaner and noticed no change in power... you don't need sox unless you're livin in the rainforest, and even then i'd chance riding without. don't know about the force though, its not shrouded.
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X1glider
Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 04:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Simple question to satisfy my curiosity:
What's the difference between Thunderstorm and Lightning heads? I noticed Nallin and Headquarters only work over the Thunderstorms. My X1 feels left out.
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Buelliedan
Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 04:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

X1,
Your X1 HAS thunderstorm heads, the bike is a Lightning, so don't feel left out. Lightning heads used to come on the older Buells. They had smaller valves and different combustion chambers but you really don't need to know that since you don't have them!!
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Xtopherj
Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2002 - 10:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's my question, and I'm sure I'll find the guidance I need here...

There are two Forcewinders available for the carburated models, one has breather fittings and the other doesn't. I understand that using the one without requires some sort of catch-can (which is a good idea anyway). It seems the best bet would be to use the one without the fittings and employ a catch-can. It's about $100 cheaper and looks fine. Am I missing something? Could those of you who have either of the systems please tell me what your opinions are before I make an un-informed purchase.

Thanks in advance,
c.j.
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Aaron
Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2002 - 10:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's been my experience that recycling the blow-by costs a little power. Others cite increased carbon build-up in the chamber when recycling blowby.

If you choose not to recycle it through the motor, you don't have to have a catch can, many people just put a filter on the end to absorb the moisture content and wash it out occassionally.

Or, a catch can may take the form of a piece of hose, ala the Blast, downhill from a breather filter, so the exhaust goes out the top and the moisture fills the hose. There's all kinds of ways to do it. We got a whole KV topic for it.

Whichever Forcewinder you choose, if you use it with a CV, make sure you don't create a lean condition due to a bowl vent problem. Your motor's life could depend on it.
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X1glider
Posted on Wednesday, May 15, 2002 - 05:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

K&N filter. One thing that's always bugged me has been after cleaning and re spraying with filter oil, I will find a small pool of oil on the floor and my timing cover well lubed too. I don't believe I've been over spraying it. Is it me or do others deal with this as well?
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Ara
Posted on Thursday, May 16, 2002 - 08:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

X1 - I've been using K&Ns on my truck and motorcycles for years. My tendency, and you may be doing this too, is to spray the oil until the entire filter is visually covered RIGH THEN. Try spraying less, and waiting for the wicking action of the filter element to transport the oil and distribute it evenly.
Russ
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Oxford
Posted on Friday, May 17, 2002 - 12:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does anyone have a hypercharger on their S1. I own a 97 S1 and am thinking about putting one on. Do you recommend one or do you recommend something different.
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Djkaplan
Posted on Friday, May 17, 2002 - 02:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check the topic on "Intake/Airbox and Filter" and you should get a pretty good idea of what is good.

Check the dyno reports on the Forcewinder too.

I personally feel that Hyperchargers are useless from a performance standpoint. You get 0 points at the bench races with a fake fuel injection styled air filter.

But it's your bike, do what you want.
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Jerome
Posted on Tuesday, May 21, 2002 - 03:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had a chance to visit the Ferrari museum in Maranello, Italy, this weekend. Among the different pieces of automotive art exposed, there were several V12 engines. I could notice on one of them (don't remember which model) that the 12 intake tracks had a varying length through a cam system. I suppose that this engineering solution from Ferrari has the objective to optimize back pressure at the inlet, depending on rpms. I'd be curious to see somebody doing a similar job on a Buell and report its finding on the dyno... For instance Aaron... :-) I'm sure that the weather will be bad next weekend in your nice countryside and that some duct tape and tubing would easily reach the intake of your Forcewinder-equipped Buell, hmmm ?!!!
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Coop
Posted on Friday, May 24, 2002 - 08:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had the dealer install a k&n air cleaner kit today, after driving around a couple hours I noticed oil on my header and its coming from the air cleaner box, the bottom of the air box seems to be pretty wet with oil, I hope there is an easy fix for this.
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Blake
Posted on Friday, May 24, 2002 - 11:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Coop, the dealer may have just been a little overzealous in applying oil to your new filter. Wipe it up and it may subside. If not, it may be coming from your crankcase breather, in which case you dealer may have been overzealous in filling your engine with oil. Check it when the engine is hot just after a ride. The level should be between the two marks on your dipstick.
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Coop
Posted on Friday, May 24, 2002 - 11:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake, I dont think its the air filter oil, its darker like engine oil, I will check the oil level after my next ride, that would be a relief if they just put in to much oil, I thought it was because of the buell race air cleaner they installed, because I read the directions and it mentioned something about rerouting breather lines, thank-you for the info.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Saturday, May 25, 2002 - 10:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just another data point... if I put any more oil in my '00 cyclone then it takes to get just barely above to bottom mark, my bike gives me an evil grin and spits it out the breathers and all over my right knee on the next ride.

If I leave it right at that bottom mark, it will stay happy and spit less.

I check it with the bike straight up and down with a stopped engine right after a ride.
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Dynarider
Posted on Saturday, May 25, 2002 - 07:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The crankcase breather tubes are just left hanging over the open intake when you install the race kit. If you dont reroute the tubes & add some type of catch can you will end up with a messy bike after every ride.
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Coop
Posted on Sunday, May 26, 2002 - 05:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake, I took apart the airbox and cleaned all the oil up, then went for a 30 minute ride, no oil coming out, but then again it was only city driving, I'm going to install a catch can anyway so I do not recycle the puke, but I noticed a new problem, when stopping at a traffic light the idle stays high (about 2000 rpm) for about 3-4 seconds then comes down to normal, other than this it seems to run great, do you have any idea what this problem is? Thank-you in advance.
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Blake
Posted on Sunday, May 26, 2002 - 06:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Coop,
Sounds like the result of a leaking intake manifold seal. To confirm for certain, hold it at a fast idle, around 2,000 rpm and spray WD-40 or contact cleaner or something similar around each of the three seals (one at throttle body, and one at each cylinder head). If the idle changes appreciably, you most likely have a bad seal at the affected location. This is unfortunately a fairly common problem. Fortunately it is also an easy fix. :)
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Coop
Posted on Sunday, May 26, 2002 - 08:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake thank-you for the info, I will try that when I get some time, just went for another ride and now its not coming down at all, stays high and it runs rough, just waiting for a service manual to come in at the dealer.
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Coop
Posted on Wednesday, May 29, 2002 - 11:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake, I tried the wd-40 test, I did not get anywhere, I tried hold the throttle at 2000 rpm's, but the idle was jumping up and down even before I sprayed so I couldnt really tell, when coming to a stop when the bike is warm, idle stays around 2000 and runs rough, if I let the clutch out in gear until the engine slows down and then pull the clutch back in, it idles like its supposed to, and smooth, or when coming to a light if I wait till the last second to pull the clutch in, it will idle nice and smooth, I'm calling the dealer tomorrow, and after they look at it I hope they dont tell me, we didnt seem to find anything wrong.
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Bull
Posted on Monday, June 03, 2002 - 03:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi all,
I´ve got a small problem that you might help me solve! I´m thinking of getting a Forcewinder air intake but it´s awfully expensive in Sweden. So I was thinking of building my own, partly for the fun of it;-)
I have friends who have access to plasma cutting and TIG welding so the craftmanship doesn´t suffer.
What I don't have is a "blueprint" of the intake, so I'll need the basic measures of the intake including inner and outer dia. I would also apreciate if someone could tell me what K&N filter to use.

Anyway, we'll see how much information I can gather before I decide if it's worth it.

Cheers and thanks in advance

/Jonas
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, June 03, 2002 - 12:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bull:
Try the economy way as I have..................
Use the stock snorkel and put a K&N RC-3680 filter
on the end of it and put you air box cover back on
and nobody knows what you got under it!!!!!!!!!!!
HOW TO:as in gutting your AIR BOX.............
Take the snorkel fill the three holes with a good
epoxy(drill two holes across from each other as a
safty on the plugs being pulled in to the carb)..
Grind off the lip where the snorkel went onto the
factory air cleaner cover(do not shorten the snorkel as it is the right length for bottom end
torque)so you can slip the K&N on it......
Cut or modify a flat washer to put under the upper
right carb mounting allen screw as a aditional
mounting position for snorlel......
Remove the seal air box cover as it is not required now.........
When you rap the throttle it will sound like a V8
with the air cleaner off.
It is possible to get abut 4HP depending on how
good of tune your engine is in?????????????
If you have more questions ping me direct at
ljenne@tampabay.rr.com ......
With the air box set up you can ride in the rain
no matter how hard it rains(with the FORCE set up
they put a sock over filer(now why would one put
a sock over a filter that you put on in the first
place so the engine will suck more air??????)
They(FORCE has a small cover if you do not want to
go the sock route,but it is small).. The stock air
box cover is bigger and designed to pack the air
in(as in ram air).....
In buelling
LaFayette(AKA BUELLISTIC
and/or Hardley-Harley
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Coop
Posted on Monday, June 03, 2002 - 09:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just picked my bike up from the dealer today after dropping it off for a slow return to idle problem, the mechanic said that with the race ecm's the idle has to be set just right, if it is a little bit to high, it tends to hang up around 1500 rpm's after coming to a stop, he said he lowered the idle a little and checked the tps and timing, I drove around for 3-4 hours and its returning to idle just fine now, feels a little stronger now than before I took it in, maybe the tps or timing was off, but its running great now, hope it stays that way.
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Blake
Posted on Tuesday, June 04, 2002 - 01:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like ECM/TPS calibration was off and they reset it. Glad they got it sorted out for you.
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